The article discusses the use of natural aphid predators, such as ladybugs and green lacewings, to prevent or control aphid infestations. It emphasizes the importance of using systemic insecticides like Dominion 2L and Aphid Traps like Springstar Aphid S1501 traps to protect plants from damaging insects. Aphids prefer plants with sweet juices, such as dandelion, spurge, lettuce, cabbage, tomatoes, and hibiscus.
Various strategies are employed to prevent or control aphid infestations, including introducing natural predators like ladybugs, lacewings, or parasitic wasps. Honeydew leaves plants weak and more susceptible to fungi and disease, making chemical control of aphids a great alternative. Efekto Insecticide Granules Plus is a ready-to-use systemic insecticide in granular form to control aphids, mealybugs, thrips, and scale insects listed on conifers, flowers, ornamental shrubs, and roses in the garden.
To prevent die-back caused by aphids, apply each year in autumn and repeat two months later. Side-band treatments were generally less effective than equivalent in-furrow treatments, but in one trial, aphids did not colonize the crop until later. A systemic insecticide containing imidacloprid can be used to kill aphids and is easy to use. Heavy infestations should be treated with residual insecticides such as Bifen IT or the powerful systemic insecticide, Dominion 2L.
The article also mentions that Merit Insecticide Granules is not labeled for aphids and it would be recommended to use the liquid Merit 2F instead. However, side-band treatments were generally less effective than equivalent in-furrow treatments, and granular treatments did not significantly reduce parasites and predators of aphids.
Article | Description | Site |
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Application of imidacloprid controlled-release granules to … | by W YUAN · 2020 · Cited by 23 — Imidacloprid CR-GR and PF-CR-GR controlled aphids throughout the entire growth period of winter wheat and improved the wheat yield. | sciencedirect.com |
Side-band application of systemic granular pesticides for … | by JAT Woodford · 1988 · Cited by 29 — Side-bands of aldicarb at low rates controlled the peach-potato aphid (Myzus persicae) longer than low-rate in-furrow treatment in trials in eastern Scotland … | sciencedirect.com |
Efficacy of Granular Insecticides for Controlling the Root Aphid … | by RFL Mau · 1995 — Treatment plots were separated by a 3 feet buffer. The treatments were evaluated at 3, 7, and 12 weeks after planting to assess aphid populations on the roots. | academic.oup.com |
📹 How to Control Aphids! 🙅♀️🌿// Garden Answer
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What Should You Not Use Sevin On?
Sevin dust is a highly toxic organophosphate insecticide, and it should never be used on live animals or open wounds. It is also not safe to spray directly on blooming plants, as this can be lethal to bees. Sevin, containing the active ingredient carbaryl, is effective against a wide range of pests like aphids and beetles but is not recommended for use on vegetables unless absolutely necessary.
Sevin is safe for grass and does not contaminate fruits if used as directed. However, precautions must be taken when applying it; for example, residents should avoid yard work or allowing children to play near treated areas. Sevin dust should not be applied to compost piles that will be used for food growing, and people are advised to wear protective gear when handling it.
Carbaryl is toxic to many beneficial insects essential for pollination. Sevin should not be applied to blooming plants or during times when pollinators are active. The product label should clearly state exceptions if any. Additionally, if the dust accidentally lands on flowers, it must be removed to protect pollinators.
Modern Sevin contains Cypermethrin, which is moderately toxic through skin contact and ingestion. Despite the toxicity, low levels of exposure, when proper precautions are followed, pose minimal health risks. Use Sevin Insect Killer Granules at the first signs of insect activity, preferably in calm weather conditions. Avoid using pesticides on seedlings as they can hinder photosynthesis. For chickens, permethrin is recommended instead of Sevin. Always follow label directions for safe usage and environmental protection.
How To Get Rid Of Aphids Permanently?
Aphids, small sap-sucking insects, can damage plants significantly, especially at their tips. To effectively control aphid problems, consider the following eight strategies:
- Place Sticky Traps to capture adult aphids.
- Encourage Beneficial Bugs like ladybugs that naturally prey on aphids.
- Use Organic Pesticides such as neem oil or soapy water mixtures for safe application.
- Maintain Your Garden Regularly to reduce pest populations.
- Try Companion Planting with garlic or other aphid-repelling vegetables.
- Encourage Soil Health and Biodiversity to create a balanced ecosystem.
- Spray Oils to suffocate aphids effectively.
- Sprinkle Diatomaceous Earth around plants as a deterrent.
An immediate method to remove aphids is by hand, using waterproof gloves to gently rub leaves and stems, or effectively spraying them off with water. Additionally, for a more thorough approach, mix vinegar and rubbing alcohol in a spray to target the pests.
Prevention outweighs treatment; keeping ants away helps since they farm aphids for their sugary secretions. Include plants that attract aphid-eating birds like wrens and chickadees in your garden. Many homemade recipes for aphid control utilize simple ingredients, making solutions accessible and eco-friendly. By employing these tips, you can efficiently manage aphid infestations while fostering a healthy garden environment.
Are Organic Insecticide Sprays Good For Aphids?
Organic insecticide sprays offer an effective and environmentally friendly solution for managing aphids on vegetable plants. Ingredients such as pyrethrin, derived from chrysanthemum flowers, provide a safe means of controlling aphids without harming plant health. Regular inspection of plants is crucial for early detection, as aphids are attracted to plants with naturally sweet juices like dandelion, spurge, lettuce, cabbage, tomatoes, and hibiscus.
Physical removal is a straightforward method for minor aphid infestations—simply picking the pests off the plants can significantly reduce their numbers. Additionally, gardeners can employ organic solutions such as essential oils, including rosemary, peppermint, clove, and thyme, which deter and kill aphids. These oils are typically diluted with water and sprayed on the affected plants, though care must be taken to avoid harming beneficial insects.
Homemade insecticidal soaps, Neem oil, and worm castings are popular organic treatments tested for their efficacy against aphids. Insecticidal soap sprays, for instance, can be made by diluting household soap, while Neem oil disrupts aphid life cycles without posing risks to humans, animals, or other non-target insects. Pyrethrum 5EC is another natural contact insecticide effective year-round against various pests, including aphids, beetles, and whiteflies.
Preventive measures such as hand-picking aphids or using strong water sprays can help manage populations before resorting to organic products. Additionally, attracting beneficial insects like ladybirds and hoverflies by avoiding broad-spectrum sprays can enhance natural pest control. Combining these methods ensures a balanced approach to aphid management, maintaining garden health while minimizing environmental impact.
Overall, organic aphid control integrates multiple strategies—from physical removal and natural repellents to targeted organic sprays—providing gardeners with versatile tools to protect their vegetables sustainably. By prioritizing preventive actions and utilizing safe, effective treatments, it is possible to manage aphid populations effectively while supporting a healthy and thriving garden ecosystem.
Will Systemic Granules Kill Aphids?
PEST CONTROL - Bonide Systemic Granules effectively combat tough houseplant pests such as fungus gnats, mealybugs, whiteflies, termites, and aphids. This product offers natural solutions for controlling insects and highlights the relationship between aphids and ants. While systemic granules provide insect control for up to 8 weeks on non-edible plants, their effectiveness can vary, and they may not eliminate all pests completely. The granules are applied dry and are absorbed through plant roots, protecting new growth by dispersing throughout the plant.
Users often report success against root aphids and other pests when used correctly, although caution is urged due to potential harm to pollinators like bees and hummingbirds, and scavenging animals that may consume affected insects. For significant infestations unresponsive to insecticidal soap, systemic pesticides such as Imidacloprid might be employed. Systemic insecticides, absorbed by the roots, target pests within the soil, while granular formulations ensure ease of application without mess.
Bonide Systemic Granules are suitable for various plants, including flowers and shrubs, and are particularly beneficial indoors due to their odorless and non-spray application. Overall, while Bonide's granules may not be a one-size-fits-all solution, they serve as a potent option for managing tough houseplant pests when used carefully and according to instructions.
How Often Should I Use Aphid Granule?
Protect your plants from aphids, whiteflies, and other pests with ready-to-use granules that offer effective, long-lasting insect control for up to 8 weeks. For optimal protection in flower beds, roses, and shrubs, apply every 8 weeks throughout the growing season. Avoid using dishwasher pellets or granules; instead, mix the solution in a spray bottle, shake well, and apply directly to affected plants, covering both tops and bottoms. Immediate action is crucial to mitigate damage from aphids, whose sap consumption can harm your plants.
The recommended removal method includes spraying aphids off with water or using specific sprays and granules to eliminate them. Repeat applications every two to three days until there’s no sign of infestation, while inspecting surrounding plants and the lawn. Identifying aphid species is essential for effective management. For example, the Green Peach Aphid is light green and commonly found on stone fruits and vegetables. Following label instructions regarding timing and dosage is vital for efficacy and safety, especially regarding edible plants.
It’s advised to apply insecticides at the first sign of infestation, with limitations on application frequency. In non-edible gardens, a foliar insecticide labeled for aphids should be the first choice. Additionally, applying imidacloprid in late winter can help control aphids in the upcoming season. Ensuring proper uptake timing and avoiding wilting during spray applications will enhance control effectiveness.
Do Foliar Insecticides Kill Aphids?
The use of foliar insecticides begins to control aphid populations while systemic treatments disperse through the plant. Systemic insecticides may be applied via soil drenching or direct spraying. Early in the season, isolated winged aphids are typically seen, but these rarely trigger outbreaks as they often die or migrate away. However, during late June to August, these aphids can establish and reproduce in numbers. Among tested foliar insecticides, dimethoate combined with chlorpyrifos has shown greater efficacy compared to cypermethrin and monocrotophos.
While alternatives like malathion, permethrin, and acephate effectively manage aphids in gardens, they may also eliminate beneficial insects that help control aphid populations. Modest aphid populations on fruit or ornamental trees usually do not lead to extensive damage, allowing for the potential tolerance of lower numbers. Systemic insecticides target aphids primarily on ornamental plants, with specific instructions provided for vegetable and fruit applications.
Insecticides function by obstructing the breathing openings of the pests, but multiple applications might be necessary to effectively eradicate aphids, particularly their eggs. For management, it is essential to assess the severity of the infestation and select suitable control methods, such as horticultural soaps or oils, and foliar sprays. It's beneficial to apply treatments early morning or late evening to minimize harm to beneficial insects like lady beetles and hover flies. While insecticides can effectively manage aphids, they can inadvertently affect the beneficial predatory insects. Despite this, some studies indicate that insecticide treatments can significantly decrease aphid populations and bolster crop yields.
Which Is The Best Method Of Controlling Aphids?
To control aphids effectively, several methods can be employed. Physically removing them from plants through a strong spray of water is effective for tender foliage, such as roses and young plants. Regular pruning of badly damaged leaves also helps. Integrated Pest Management (IPM) combines biological, cultural, physical, and chemical methods for sustainable aphid management. Introducing natural predators like ladybugs and lacewings can help keep aphid populations under control.
Identifying the specific aphid species present is critical since strategies may vary; the green peach aphid is one of the most common. Using eco-friendly organic methods to clear out aphids includes hand-removal, soapy water sprays, neem oil, and essential oils. Sustainable landscape design and maintaining plant health are vital for prevention. Other techniques involve utilizing yellow sticky traps and promoting a healthy ecosystem by releasing beneficial insects.
Combining methods such as homemade insecticidal soaps and worm castings can yield positive results. Monitoring and adjusting strategies based on garden conditions are essential since some methods may work better than others. Overall, effective and organic aphid control involves a combination of physical removal, natural predators, and eco-friendly sprays, thereby promoting a balanced garden ecosystem.
Can Systemic Granules Hurt Plants?
Systemic pesticides pose significant concerns as they not only target harmful pests but also inadvertently kill beneficial organisms within the soil. These chemicals, which are water-soluble and easily absorbed by plants, can create toxicity in all plant parts, including roots and leaves, thus rendering them poisonous to insects that might feed on them. Although systemic insecticides, such as Bonide Systemic Granules, are effective at long-term pest control, they can harm non-target beneficial organisms like ladybugs and lacewings upon contact.
The pesticides are effective against common pests like aphids and caterpillars due to their ability to translocate throughout the plant. However, they are not suitable for edible plants, limiting their application to ornamental plants.
Additionally, the use of systemic insecticides raises environmental concerns, particularly regarding their toxicity to aquatic life. It is recommended that any runoff, such as water from treated plants, be directed away from drainage systems to prevent contamination of water sources. Alternatives like neem oil exist, providing a less harmful approach to pest management while promoting the health of beneficial insects. Therefore, while systemic insecticides can provide effective pest control, careful consideration of their environmental impact and effects on non-target species is essential in their use.
How Do You Treat Aphids On Non-Edible Plants?
To effectively manage aphid infestations, first check the product label for safe harvesting times after application. For non-edible plants, start with a foliar insecticide like Bifen IT, and apply a systemic insecticide, such as Dominion 2L, simultaneously. This article provides a comprehensive approach to controlling aphids on both indoor and outdoor plants, alongside insights into their life cycle. Weak plants are prone to aphid attacks, but healthy ones can be affected too.
Many natural methods exist to combat aphids without harsh chemicals, with 23 easy strategies explored here. Address infestations promptly using non-toxic techniques, like vinegar sprays or coffee grounds. A straightforward method involves simply rinsing aphids away with water. Blackfly, or the black bean aphid, is a prevalent type in gardens. Remove aphids by hand, spray water, or expose plants to predators. Regularly check plants for aphid signs, squashing pest colonies if found.
Homemade insecticidal recipes, such as mixing dishwasher liquid with water, can be effective. Additionally, use soft-soap or water mixtures to spray affected shoots. Fast action is crucial to prevent further damage; applying systemic insecticides can protect plants by being absorbed into their systems.
What Is The Best Pesticide To Kill Aphids?
Permethrin acts as a natural insect repellent that effectively kills aphids when concentrated and sprayed directly, posing no harm to humans or wildlife. In situations where aphid infestations are significant and not remedied by insecticidal soap, systemic pesticides like Imidacloprid are recommended for application around plant roots. Aphids, as pests, inflict damage and hinder the growth of plants such as hydrangea and birch. To manage these pests, there are numerous options, including 15 natural and 5 synthetic pesticides.
Natural remedies suggested include using neem oil, insecticidal soap, or diatomaceous earth, all of which target aphids without harming beneficial insects. Additionally, a strong water spray can dislodge aphids from plants, preventing their return. Early spring is ideal for treatment, as aphids multiply rapidly at this time. Chemical insecticides like malathion also exist, but they may harm beneficial insects like ladybirds. Recommended treatments range from organic solutions such as insecticidal soap and horticultural oil to more potent options like Dominion 2L, which contains Imidacloprid.
DIY aphid sprays, such as a soap and water mixture, can also be effective. A comprehensive strategy involving both preventive and active measures is essential for controlling aphid populations while preserving plant health and encouraging an eco-friendly approach.
What Do Aphids Hate The Most?
Aphids, small pests that suck sap from plants, can cause significant damage in gardens. To deter them, certain plants with strong scents can be beneficial. For instance, lavender and wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) are known to repel aphids due to their potent aromas. Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) not only attracts hoverflies, which prey on aphids, but also has a smell that aphids dislike. Garlic and onions are particularly effective; a homemade spray made from these can be used on affected plants.
While aphids are drawn to camellias, dahlias, roses, and citrus plants, they tend to stay away from aromatic herbs like dill, oregano, sage, and thyme. Additionally, banana peels can repel aphids when finely chopped and placed around plants. Other herbs like basil, chervil, and cilantro also help combat aphid infestations with their strong scents. Incorporating these plants into your garden can enhance flavors and provide natural pest control, helping to keep your plants healthy and free from aphids. By understanding which plants repel aphids, gardeners can create a more resilient and flourishing outdoor space.
📹 Pesticide Companies Don’t Want You to Know These Secrets Complete Guide to Organic Pest Control
Pesticide #Gardening #DaisyCreekFarms Organic ways to get rid of all garden pests such as aphids, white flies, spider mites, …
I am trying out right now to stick garlic into the soil and also spraying the infected leaves with a mixture of water, milk and a splash of cooking oil (acid in the milk is supposed to kill them and the cooking oil is also poisenous to them). Big advantage of this is that you can use this on herbs/plants that you want to eat afterwards. After one day, it already looks way better, so I hope it will stay like this 🙂
I’ve used DE powder along with Neem oil before and it works great!! 😉 Over the years, I’ve found that neem oil is great by itself too! Thank you again for sharing an incredible article!! I love your website and you give me so much inspiration to keep on adding to my 100+ plant collection Lol There is so much I still want to grow!!
I’ve heard good things about parasitic wasps for greenhouses in cold climates. They typically go dormant when the infestation is under control, or feed on populations living in nasturtium or on other plants, then if the aphids come back in the greenhouse, the parasitic wasp population comes back in shortly after, so if you want a more permanent solution than ladybugs, they can work really well. I’m not sure if they work well outside where its cold, but for medium scale commercial tomato greenhouses they work really well.
Thank you for this article. I saw little black bugs on my yellow dahlias and sedum. Sprayed with Bonide Eight and covered them with a plastic tent for the day and night so no other insects or birds could come in contact with it…the tent also prevented any from flying away. Looked this am and not a one alive! I wil, l monitor daily like you recommended..thank you so much, Laura! On another topic, I LOVE my lungwort…thank you for recommending!
I actually like these suckers sometimes, because at my job (floral shop) we also sell potted plants of all sorts, but sometimes there´s aphids on them, mostly the roses, and we cant keep them, so i get them for free!! I bring them home and qurantine them untill im sure theyre fine. Last time i got 6 light pink beautiful roses, not sure which kind though.
I was once told if you have aphids, you have a sick plant. I am thinking they might be right. I had black aphids on my elderberry plant. They were only on one plant. That one plant needed to be thinned. Once I thinned the plant, the problem went away. A good plant to own for ladybugs is Rosa Rugosa roses. They have beautiful smelling roses, and large rosehips. The ladybugs are a bonus. Watch out for those thorns though!
I get aphids on my hellebores. Also problem with insecticides is that they often will kill the good bugs so if you released lady bugs and used insecticide you would kill your ladybugs. Organocide kills soft-bodied insects like mites but is safe for ones such as lady bugs beetles and bees. 🙂 And yes….I also love Neem oil.
This article was so helpful!! Thank you for sharing. My parade roses have been besieged by these aphids (I previously didn’t know what they were called so I just called them life-suckers, oof), and I took the time to remove them myself, and then spray my plants with the hose. Then after a few weeks, they returned!! And I did the same process again. I’m planning to buy an insecticide, (I was dubious if I should, but my friend convinced me), but I thought I would just go around the store and buy the first one that said it would kill these life-suckers. Thank goodness I watched this article first! I’m going to look for the ‘for organic gardening’ ones, or maybe even buy the same insecticides if my stores has them! Thank you once again! I feared that these aphids were going to ruin gardening for me. My roses’ leaves continued to yellow, and these bugs kept returning. They lost quite a few leaves..in the process. And it was hard seeing the new, light green leaves just crinkled and die. I was really hoping for the roses to grow, and to finally see some rose blooms. I was almost going to give up on roses, because I didn’t have the time to remove the aphids and I didn’t want to see my roses die. Last year I had already uprooted my marigold because bugs had besieged them, to the point of it not being salvageable, and oh boy, taking it up had hurt me a lot. I actually kept the roses in my house before I let them outside again, so I wouldn’t have to deal with the life-suckers returning, but looked sad in there, and I think more leaves were dying (oh no, I messed up, they needed light!
I have a potted petunia plant I’m sure is stressed because I just got over a slug problem with it recently. Saw the flying green aphids on the under side of the flowers and took action spraying the plant right way and then afterwards removing all the flowers. Funny thing is the aphids were accompanied by what looked like black fungus gnats as well. Very odd. I’m making it a point now to check all my flowers everyday to catch things early. It’s been a hell of a year compared with last year. Don’t know why. 🤷🏻♀️
👩🌾 Great info. Question Laura: Every year, the Japanese Beetles cover my Mom’s rose bushes eating the leaves and flowers. Not just a few but lots and lots of them. What is good to spray for these? Dawn dish detergent mixed in water helps some – but does not get rid of them. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! 🌷🦜
I’ve got neem oil and auch for myself but the issue is I’m growing mini pumpkins and getting between them all and getting all of the plant is very difficult as I got a few in one area and aphids everywhere and no other predatory insects. They keep coming and I kind of gave up and hoped something would come along
I remember once when I had plants in my living room but there was those green insects on them, my little sister murdered them all by squishing them with a knife. After that when I checked on the living room table i saw one little head, moving. Yes my little sister had squished it’s body but not the head, leaving the insect to wiggle it’s head until she found out and squished the insect.
I have tons of really small black insects on my Calendula plant’s every year.What kind of insect might that be?And how can I get rid of them?I also have a problem with red lily beetles eating my lilies away every year.What works to get rid of them?I just love your website and gardens.Thank you if you can help me.
Looked at my rose of sharon yesterday and it looks as if someone took a hedge trimmer to the top branches. The cut-offs are on the ground underneath the rose of sharon. Wondering what kind of insect could be doing this damage. Would like to nip it in the bud since they will be blooming soon. Would appreciate any help/advice you can give.
Laura I have a question regarding my hydrangeas. I have the let’s dance series, two years ago I cut them all the way back 🥺 last year I nursed them along. They had little growth on the little bit of old wood. This year they are blooming on very little old wood only down by roots. Did I kill them? What can I do to save them ? Thank you for all your info! Shari
I have a horrible infestation on my tall bearded irises. The organic spray I bought didn’t work. I bought 1500 ladybugs that I released last week. I think I saw 1 or 2 still hanging around even though the food source is plentiful. 🙄 going to try neem oil next before they find my roses. Will neem oil hurt any remaining ladybugs?
Don’t forget, with a systemic, as some may choose to use, these poisonous chemicals are then in every part of the plant, to kill any insect who comes to feed on any part of your plant… including the pollen. It may kill or sicken Honey Bees, Ladybugs, Praying mantis, Lacewings & other beneficial insects, which may be attracted to eat aphids who are still feeding, before they die, & can harm if not kill other pollinators, like Butterflies & Hummingbirds, who were attracted to your colorful flowers & pollen. A systemic will work effectively, but, like the topical soap & oil spraying, may take a few tries to get through all stages, as eggs laid in the soil may survive, but if you do a few repeat treatments, you may get those who have hatched, before they get the chance to multiply. I have used it on houseplants, but didn’t like having that odor in the house & realized it could harm my pets, or myself, by breathing that in. That’s why she’s showing all of these alternatives, though some of those may harm beneficials too. Hit them with an oil, like an inexpensive oil, unless you don’t want to buy a GMO corn oil, but you’re not eating it if it’s not used on veggies…or an olive oil, using a spray bottle. This can smother them. Wait an hour, or two, then spray with a diluted castile soap, like Dr. Bronner’s. Spray the soil & all around the plant too, including the pot, the soil or deck where it was sitting, & under the pot & on all sides. Do the same if using a commercially made insecticidal soap, (which is likely more costly, & has only that use).
Another easy, natural way is MURPHY OIL SOAP. A couple tablespoons in a plastic sprayer, fill with warm water, shake it a bit. Then spray on upper leaves, under leaves, the canes, the flowers. all over until it drips off. Do this when the sun is NOT shining on the rose bush. Liquid on plants in the sun can burn them. Douse the plant, wait a few hours, then gently spray it off with diffused water sprayer hose. Do this a couple times a day. It not only knocks off some aphids, they dont like the soap and they either jump off or die. Rosebushes LOVE Murphy Soap and it makes them glossy clean.
For the last few years we have been attached by aphids. The air is thick with them, we can not open the doors with without them flying into house cover ceilings and walls.. they cover the. Siding on house and all the bushes and shrubs. I believe they are aphids. They resemble your picture at one stage and then seem to progress until they fly. We have tried sop and water and spraying with the hose. It is a losing battle.
Great article but no mention of imidacloprid which is a systemic insecticide. From my understanding It needs to be put down as a drench at the beginning of growing season as it takes a few weeks to ramp up in the plant foliage. NPIC fact sheet description :: “Imidacloprid is an insecticide that was made to mimic nicotine. Nicotine is naturally found in many plants, including tobacco, and is toxic to insects. Imidacloprid is used to control sucking insects, termites, some soil insects, and fleas on pets. It has been used in products sold in the United States since 1994.” I use it on my crepe myrtles for aphids, azaleas for lace bugs and roses here in NC zone 7b. Seems to works great. I use bayer protect and feed which has the chemical in it. After that runs out though I might just do a drench that is the chemical by itself so I can give different fertilizer since the bayer product is fertilizer and chemical together. amazon.com/Compare-N-Save-Systemic-Shrub-Insect-Drench/dp/B00ARKS5QO/ref=sr_1_3?hvadid=241932798643&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9009718&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=6170081272170394317&hvtargid=kwd-115156524&keywords=imidacloprid&qid=1555161990&s=gateway&sr=8-3
HELP UGH I brought in some rose cuttings to root over winter like I normally do and usually I root them right away but it was late and I had other things to do so I let the cuttings sit in water overnight. This morning I started planting the cuttings and noticed there were aphids on a few of them. I’m not that worried about the cuttings but I am worried that I left them in a room with about 15 of my house plants! They were a good 8 feet away from the house plants but is it possible they could transfer? I put the soil I was using for the roses outside, cleaned up my working area with neem oil and rubbing alcohol and sprayed my house plants down with neem oil. I also treated the rose cuttings and they are propagating in a bag now so if there are any leftover bugs they are trapped in a bag in another room. Should I be worried about my house plants? Or do you guys think that the aphids would just stay on the rose cuttings that they came in on?
A thumbs up from me – Thanks!! I just noticed those pests on one of my newer rose bushes, so will try spraying with water, and then see if I can buy some live lady bugs – I like those creatures!? Also, THANK you for not recommending dish soap and claiming that it’s “organic and natural” – Dish soap has chemicals, and even though it’s milder than insecticides it’s NOT natural or organic.
Hi Laura, Do you have any tips for dealing with Japanese beetles? I have them later in summer and they feed on new growth clematis leaves and my limelight flowers! They come and within a couple days my limelight blooms and clematis leaves turn black! I tried to come out early in the morning when they are weakest and tap the branches to let the beetles fall into soapy water to drown them. But this is tedious and cruel?! Please help!
Have you tried cinnamon? I fond that if you take a couple of teaspoons of cinnamon powder and mix it into boiling water, then wait for it to cool down, strain it into a spray bottle and then spray down the whole plant this usually makes the aphids Jog-on. I find if that’s not doing the trick that washing up liquid soap and some water sprayed on the leaves also gets rid of the horrid creatures! 👋💁🏻♂️
there is a better way if your plants are in small pots. Place the pot in a larger container and fill it with running water. Let the plant completely submerge below the water for one hour. This will wash away most of the bugs on the plant and in the soil. (this is how Bandai masters treat their precious plants.) Use warm water to force deeply burrowed bugs to come to the surface and kill the eggs if you have a serious infestation problem but be careful it’s not too hot to kill the plants. If you are not sure about the temperature just repeat the cold process a few times and it will be good for a long time.
Hey guys catching up to your articles! Been really thinking on what to use out in the garden. Dealt with a lot of nasty bugs last year. Want it to be safe for the good guys in the garden so after seeing other articles you have shown these products we have also done research on other stuff we will be treating our garden with these products you use. They work for you so well and this summer is going to get crazy with the move and I just want to enjoy and not be out worried on bugs lol. Have a great day guys! 🤗😘💚💚💚💚💚💚
Oh boy look at them going to town. Love all your articles we use most of what your showing. We use LadyBugs 🐞 You need a lady bug house and Ladybugs there so much nicer to look at. They just love to munch on those little nasty things. We only use food graded Diatomaceous earth, this way we can use it in the hen house and in the stalls for Oder control and it safe for them to eat
Have you ever used AZAMAX?! It’s Neem based & its organic. It’s a bit pricey 🤑 but a little goes a long way & I think it’s worth it. I’ve never seen it in stores but it is on Amazon. You can mix it up in a sprayer OR do a soil drench. I’m in the early years of gardening (this will be 4th) so I don’t know a whole lot yet..but I discovered spider mites & I quickly learned how treacherous they are😩 last year I started using AZAMAX & it has helped me so much! It works for NEARLY all insects & mites as well.🙏🏻 Diatomaceous is so messy & most of it just blows away when I apply it.🤷🏻♀️ btw..u do not wanna inhale THAT stuff…TRUST ME!!! Your throat will be raw! Anyhoot, now I have to figure out fungus & its squirrel war4 around here🙄 but AZAMAX IS AWESOME!😁
Lara I am coming to you because I am very sad this year I grew this rose from a baby plant and this year the Athens and the worms took over I took all of the leaves off now the stems are kind of got a fungus on them I don’t know exactly how to treat a a rose plant and I have never had it so bad 😞💔 like I do this year please help me?? 🙏❤️🩹
I have small black flying insects that seem to be on the petals of my daisies only and eating the petals. They are not on the leaves. Does anyone know what they are and how to get rid of them? I have searched the internet and cannot find them. I am ready to get insect identifier on my phone. Thank you, Laura for great articles. And thank you to anyone who has any thoughts about this.
I recently found your website and have enjoyed them so much I watched everything! So much knowledge to be found and when you are looking to expand your knowledge on a topic you ask. Comments are always worth a read too. So I seen a article where you want to start seeds. Some seeds need to be etched to help germination. Take a smaller can with a lid and line the inside with sandpaper. Drop seeds in, place on lid and swirl. Hope this helps. Looking forward to the next article!
I haven’t had to deal with aphids but I’m already dealing with sawfly larvae, AGAIN! Ugh, they can really defoliate my knockouts in no time. Any suggestion? I wish I had started spraying with neem oil as soon as the leaves started popping out. That’s the only thing I used last year, without much success. Is anyone else dealing with sawfly?
I bought lacewing larvae from amazon and release them. nothing happened. then I bought the combination of lacewing eggs and live ladybugs. eggs are still waiting to hatch while I released twice ladybugs. but they don’t seem to eat aphids. I looked at them passed by them and went their own way. why? now my Gaura always caught aphids and the flowers died off with so many yellow powder along with my Veronica. so many yellow powder. I just don’t know what’s going on. anybody can help?
Since I’m kind of new at this gardening Basically I just used to buy a bunch of nice hanging baskets and plants now I’m completely into it Thank You to Laura..💝 1 Day bringing home a large plant Haul I thought I had a cute little green grasshopper Opps NO it was a green aphid.. Keep the articles coming I’m learning more every day thank you so much both of you are fabulous and Benjamin is just a little Sweetheart 💝
Thank you for this tutorial. I will keep it and if I run up on a problem on my roses, I know where to go for information! Yay! I have a question, I have a weed or plant that I cannot get rid of. I think it came with my last haul of mulch last year. It is called Mugwort. It grows like mint, wild. Pick it all out one day and next day you see more shoots coming up. Help. How can I get rid of this without killing my flowers?
Can somebody anybody help me figure out what kind of bug I have on my rose bush? I have searched high and low to figure it out and there’s literally nothing on the internet about it. First of all I have aphids on it. I can see them and I wipe them off, spray them with the hose, use organic sprays, etc and they’re still there but it’s not bad. This mystery bug is a tiny black bug. It has 6 legs that you can barely see. The bug attaches itself down in the base of the stem. It also attaches itself in the base of leaf shoots. They are actually attached though. They don’t just fall off, you have to pry them off with a stick or your fingernail. And here’s the weirdest part…….they seem like they’re dead🤯 After you get them off they are 100% dead(I think, LOL). They don’t move. You can see their legs but they don’t move. And you can see a flat place on the underside of them where they were attached to the rose bush. Obviously they were alive at one point bc they climbed onto the rose bush, but it seems like they get there then eat until they die🤔 They have a hard shell. Honestly, they look like a cross between a flea and a teeny tiny beetle, but they also remind me of a tiny spider. I wish I could upload a picture on here. There doesn’t seem to be a lot of them. I find a few every couple days, but they can do a lot of damage. When I notice a new branch that grew but never produced a rose bud and just stopped growing, I’ll look at the stem where it comes from the main cane and there will be a little black bug there.
my purpose in dropping in to view your vid’ was to learn if you had used any ‘systemic’ insect control methods ? they are new to me, having just learned of them this week at Brady’s Nursery in Salida,CO. BONIDE is the brand name. an 8oz bottle of crystals sells for about 8 dollars. and contains 0.22% active ingredient. it is mixed with water and fed to the container plants from the seedling stage and later. and, like magic, infiltrates the plant and its juices such that when aphids suck on the plant they die from injesting the imidacloprid . ok, enough of that . my next move will be to see your list of later vid’s in case one of them is of you telling us what you learned from taking a ‘systemic’ path with your plants
I ordered some hydrangeas and when I received them they looked like maybe they had some insects feed on them.. and yup I saw them green fellas and some tiny black with wings fellas . No idea if that’s the mother aphids or some other kind, but thank God I saw this article cos if not I would not have really seen theses green guys which I do!