Pressure-treated wood is rated insect resistant but not termite-proof. It is embedded with preservatives that are forced into the wood pores during the manufacturing process, making it resistant to rot and fungi and creating a termite-resistant chemical barrier. This treatment lasts for 10-15 years, deterring termite infestation. Regular inspection and maintenance can extend its termite resistance.
While pressure-treated wood can be effective as a termite deterrent, it is not termite-proof. Construction codes in the U. S. state that pressure-treated wood is considered “termite resistant”, not “termite-proof”. However, it is important to ensure there is no contact with soil.
Pressure-treated lumber is poisonous to termites and carpenter ants, so they will not attack it. The natural chemicals in pressure-treated wood are toxic to termites. They are lightweight, water-rot resistant, and have a straighter appearance than traditional wood.
For the first few years, pressure-treated lumber can protect your structure against termite infestation. However, it is crucial to ensure that there is no contact with soil.
In conclusion, pressure-treated wood is an effective termite deterrent, but it is not termite-proof. To ensure that your home is protected from termite infestation, it is essential to ensure that there is no contact with soil and that pressure-treated wood is not termite-proof.
| Article | Description | Site |
|---|---|---|
| Is Pressure Treated Wood Termite Resistant? | While pressure-treated lumber can work as an effective termite deterrent, it is not termite-proof. The good news is there are some steps you can take to help … | insight-pest.com |
| Is Pressure Treated Wood Protected from Termites? | Construction codes in the U.S. state that pressure treated wood is considered to be “termite resistant,” not “termite proof.” | thomaspestservices.com |
| Will Termites Infest Pressure-Treated Wood? | Pressure-treated wood is resistant to termites, but make sure that there’s no contact with soil. Pressure-treated wood is wood that has had a chemical … | colonialpest.com |
📹 Termite-Resistant Wood Types: Be Smart and Prevent Termites!
Are you tired of dealing with termite infestations in your wood structures? In this video, we’ll discuss the different types of …
Is Blue Pine Termite Resistant?
Blue pine is commonly treated with synthetic pyrethroids for resistance against borers and termites, utilizing a water-based treatment that is more environmentally friendly compared to many alternatives. Pressure-treated pine offers termite protection through a different methodology, infusing the wood with chemical preservatives like copper azole or alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ). The T2 Blue framing is specifically designed for termite protection in regions south of the Tropic of Capricorn, whereas T2 Red targets areas north of it.
T2 Blue is guaranteed to maintain its termite resistance for a minimum of 25 years without requiring costly annual inspections or maintenance. Wespine Blue is another option, treated timber that provides resistance against termites and European house borers in Australia, suitable for H2F hazard levels. The treatment was developed by the Australian softwood industry after comprehensive field trials and regulatory approval for its safety and effectiveness.
Factors increasing wood vulnerability to termites include high moisture content, softness, and decay presence. Additionally, Pinegard Blue utilizes a modern wood preservative applied through advanced treatment facilities, enhancing its protection against termite attacks. This termite-treated blue pine offers homeowners peace of mind and lessens the need for ongoing, expensive chemical treatments. Furthermore, the H2-treated blue pine, characterized as an interior grade timber, is pressure-treated to shield against insect infestations while maintaining structural integrity for building applications. To optimize its effectiveness, it's recommended not to store Pinegard Blue timber directly on the ground for extended periods.
What Is The Best Wood Treatment For Termites?
Borates, when pressure-treated into wood, deliver lasting termiticidal effects. Termites consuming treated wood face disrupted metabolic functions due to the borates, leading to starvation and a slow death. Recommended wood treatments include Nisus Bora-Care for wood, BioAdvanced Termite Killer Granules for soil, and Ortho Home Defense for destructive bugs. Before starting woodworking projects, it's essential to inspect wood for termites; this involves probing exposed wood for hollow spots and identifying termite swarms.
If termites are found in localized areas, removing infested wood can eliminate drywood termites effectively. Homeowners and pest control professionals must find effective termite killers, examining available chemical and natural treatments. Some wood species, like cedar and redwood, naturally deter termites due to built-in insect repellents. Direct wood treatment involves using products specifically designed to manage termites, especially for wood at ground level, which is more vulnerable.
Borates, akin to table salt in toxicity to humans and pets, kill wood-consuming insects and microorganisms causing wood rot. Borate treatment is commonly utilized before preparing or painting wood, providing protection against termites. Various treatment methods, including surface sprays, injected treatments, and foams, exist, with Taurus SC being a potent option. Spectracide Terminate Termite Killing Foam is effective against exposed termite types, highlighting the importance of wood treatments for pest protection.
Do Termites Eat Wood?
Termites are relentless in their search for wood, which serves as their primary food source due to its high cellulose content. While they don't technically consume wood itself, they feed on the cellulose fibers within it. Cellulose is vital for their survival and energy needs. In addition to wood, termites also eat wood byproducts like paper, fabric, sawdust, and other dead plant materials. Some species prefer decayed wood that is easier to digest because of the breakdown by fungi.
Typically, immature termites, soldiers, and reproductive termites rely on care from worker termites that feed them. Termites not only consume wood but also inhabit it, making their food sources readily accessible. They are often found in trees, soil, lumber, and wooden structures, which puts homes at risk for termite damage.
Each termite species may have specific preferences for certain types of wood, and the amount of wood they consume can vary based on factors such as species, colony size, and environmental conditions. Essentially, termites act as detritivores, feeding on dead vegetation and decomposing matter, including wood in soil.
The worker termites in a colony play a crucial role, tirelessly eating wood around the clock to sustain the colony. Consequently, understanding how termites interact with wood can help in managing and preventing damage to wooden structures.
What Wood Is Most Termite Resistant?
Redwood is a locally available wood that offers a reasonably priced option with moderate to high durability, along with termite resistance. Among the various choices, teak stands out due to its exceptional termite resistance, attributed to natural tannins and oils that deter infestations. For outdoor applications, redwood is highly recommended. Among the common building woods, only Douglas fir shows some resistance to termites, while spruce and hemlock should be avoided in termite-prone areas.
The heartwood—darker, denser, and less permeable—of trees like cedar, redwood, cypress, and teak is naturally less attractive to termites. Homeowners can benefit from selecting these woods, alongside pressure-treated options that provide additional protection. Eastern red cedar, or juniper, is particularly noted for its insect-repelling oils, as is sassafras. Teak, though expensive, is recognized for its durability and weather resistance. It is essential to note that common construction lumber like Douglas fir, hemlock, and spruce lack termite resistance and may be suitable only in low-risk termite areas.
Termites prefer soft, moist, or rotting wood, making naturally resistant choices like redwoods, yellow cedar, cypress, and tropical hardwoods such as ipe and mahogany preferable options for durability and pest avoidance. While cedar and pressure-treated wood are resistant, no wood is completely immune to termites over time.
Is Treated Timber Termite Proof?
Is treated wood safe from termites? Yes, treated lumber, particularly pine, is fortified against termite infestations through proper chemical treatments that enhance its durability and resilience. These methods significantly improve the wood's resistance to insects and decay, making it a suitable choice for construction and preservation needs. Pressure-treated lumber, commonly used for outdoor structures like fences, involves embedding preservatives into the wood, creating a chemical barrier against termites and decay.
While treated wood is rated as insect-resistant, it's important to clarify that it is not entirely insect-proof. For the first 8-10 years, treated wood provides considerable protection, yet it still requires precautions to mitigate potential termite infestations. Utilizing pressure-treated wood can be effective, but homeowners should remain vigilant, as termites will attempt to feed on any wood material.
Treated wood is beneficial in environments prone to moisture and is particularly useful for structures in constant contact with water or salt water. Various treatment classes are available, with H1 treated timber being designed to minimize insect attack in well-ventilated areas. To further protect against termites, homeowners can consider naturally resistant or composite wood options. Regular maintenance, such as ensuring wood remains dry and having current termite inspections, is also advisable. Ultimately, while treated wood offers protection, responsible practices are crucial for preventing termite damage.
Can I Treat Wood For Termites Myself?
If unsure about termite treatment, consider products like Rust-Oleum Wolman WOODLIFE Classic for general use or WOODLIFE CopperCoat for below-ground wood. Borate sprays such as Bora-Care can repel termites and carpenter ants. However, termite treatment is generally not recommended as a DIY project because colonies may hide in inaccessible areas around your home. While homeowners can perform some prevention measures, it’s best to avoid over-the-counter solutions from stores like Home Depot or Lowe's, especially for homes with slab foundations.
Borate is an effective termite anti-agent when applied before painting or treating wood, with products like Timbor and Bora-care penetrating infested wood to kill termites. Borate insecticides, once absorbed into the wood, provide long-term protection. Additionally, some wood species like cedar and redwood naturally deter termites. Many homeowners mistakenly believe DIY treatments are sufficient. For severe infestations or comprehensive treatment, consulting a professional is advisable.
What Is The Best Ground Cover To Prevent Termites?
To prevent termites, opt for low- or no-cellulose ground covers such as pine straw, rubber mulches, gravel, or rocks. It's crucial to eliminate potential food sources for termites, which includes removing rotting tree stumps and dead trees, and disposing of any unnecessary wood debris in your yard. Avoid using wood mulches in garden beds adjacent to your home. For effective termite protection, treat the soil next to the slab or piers with a long-lasting liquid termiticide. In addition to traditional mulches, consider using melaleuca mulch, which is termite-resistant and kind to earthworms.
Ground covers like ivy and creeping thyme can enhance your landscaping but require more maintenance. It's also important to keep weep holes clear of soil and mulch to prevent moisture accumulation that attracts termites. Regular inspections, strategic landscaping, moisture management, and professional pest control can further safeguard your property.
Plants like vetiver grass, marigolds, chrysanthemums, catnip, and mint are known to repel termites. Every mulch should remain away from the house, as moist conditions can favor termite infestations. Functional ground covers not only help with weed suppression but also create an unfavorable environment for termites, contributing to long-term pest control strategies.
What Do Professionals Use For Termites?
Pest control professionals utilize borate wood treatments to prevent and eliminate termite infestations in homes. These treatments include surface applications during construction and wood injections or foams afterward. This article reviews various chemicals, including Fipronil, Chlorpyrifos, Bifenthrin, Imidacloprid, and Cypermethrin, that effectively target termites. Different methods, such as bait systems, termiticides, fumigation, and physical barriers, are employed depending on the termite species, notably subterranean or drywood termites.
Liquid termiticides, particularly Termidor (Fipronil), are among the most popular in the U. S. for their 100% effectiveness against termites and colony elimination. Pest control experts also consider safety and application techniques when using professional termite sprays like Termidor SC and Taurus SC, which contain potent ingredients. Bifenthrin targets the insect nervous system, while methoprene disrupts the life cycle of termites. Soil-applied liquid termiticides have been a longstanding method for termite control, as they form an invisible barrier around structures.
Professionals often use detection tools like moisture meters and borescopes to identify hidden termite activity. Overall, these powerful treatments and methodologies are crucial in safeguarding homes from the persistent threat of termite infestations.
Can You Treat Wood To Prevent Termites?
Para disminuir las posibilidades de infestaciones de termitas, los propietarios pueden optar por madera tratada a presión, resistente naturalmente o compuesta. Si las termitas llegan a tus muebles de madera, existen diversas opciones para prevenir su daño y combatir las infestaciones. Desde métodos naturales de control de plagas hasta tratamientos intensivos, este artículo aborda diversas estrategias para proteger la madera.
Se recomienda usar madera tratada a presión, la cual es resistente a la descomposición y a los insectos, ya que se le han aplicado agentes preservantes a alta presión. Al seleccionar madera para proyectos exteriores o para reforzar estructuras existentes, la madera tratada es una excelente opción.
Además, es esencial aplicar repelenes efectivos para prevenir la entrada de termitas. Se pueden crear barreras físicas o, en el caso de termitas de madera seca, perforar el mueble infestado, llenar los agujeros con termiticida y sellar con masilla. Pintar la madera con acabados resistentes a termitas y tratar el suelo circundante con termiticida también es recomendable. El uso de termiticidas de repulsión puede proteger la madera aún no invadida. Para madera enterrada, se puede utilizar productos como WOODLIFE CopperCoat o sprays de borato como Bora-Care.
Adicionalmente, mantener el control de humedad y ventilación adecuada es crucial. Se sugiere eliminar exceso de madera y cartón, proteger muebles de la humedad, aplicar aloe vera y secar bien la leña antes de almacenarla. Aunque la madera tratada reduce significativamente el riesgo de infestación, es importante implementar estas medidas preventivas consistentemente.
What Do Termites Hate The Most?
Termites are known to have a strong aversion to certain odors, which can effectively repel them. Common scents that termites dislike include orange oil, neem oil, garlic, cinnamon, vinegar, mint, and citrus. Specifically, essential oils like cedarwood, peppermint, clove, and rosemary are particularly unappealing to these pests. Utilizing these scents strategically around your home can help keep termites at bay. Organic ingredients offer a natural way to deter termites, sparing homeowners from potential infestations later.
Research indicates that orange oil contains d-limonene, a compound toxic to termites that suffocates them upon application. Other substances like borates are harmless to humans but lethal to termites. Metals such as copper can also act as barriers to prevent infestations. Essential oils and natural repellents can be harnessed effectively. Noteworthy scents that termites hate include cedarwood, mint, cayenne pepper, and petroleum jelly, along with natural deterrents like human hair and wood ashes. Certain tree species, like redwoods and cypress, naturally repel termites. Overall, a combination of these odors and natural remedies can help protect your home from termite damage.
Can Termites Live In Treated Lumber?
Termites can still infest pressure-treated wood, emphasizing the need for regular inspections for signs of infestation. Pressure-treated wood is infused with preservatives under high pressure, which makes it less appetizing to termites. However, this does not make it entirely indestructible. The effectiveness of these chemical treatments can diminish over time, especially as moisture levels rise and the chemicals wash away, leaving wood vulnerable to termite attack after several years.
While treated wood does create a chemical barrier against termite feeding and can deter infestations, it is important to understand that termites might not directly consume treated wood but can tunnel through it to access untreated materials. Construction codes in the U. S. designate pressure-treated wood as "termite resistant" instead of "termite proof." Homeowners can further protect their properties by using naturally resistant or composite materials.
Despite its level of protection, moisture and rot can compromise treated wood, allowing termites to feed. Therefore, while pressure-treated wood offers some defense against termites, it is not a foolproof solution. Regular monitoring, combined with protective measures, remains essential to safeguard against termite infestations in pressure-treated wood structures. In summary, while treated wood is less appealing to termites, it is not entirely immune to their destructive behavior.
📹 The Truth About Treated Lumber (IS IT TOXIC? CARCINOGENIC? BAD FOR THE ENVIRONMENT? ) Treated Wood
Do you have questions about your home? Are you approaching a major repair? Facing a complicated contracting situation?
I work at a large big box store. Recently I noticed a new employee cutting pressure-treated lumber for a customer. I waited until the customer walked away and asked the employee why he wasn’t wearing a dust mask. He told me that it wasn’t brought up in his training. I poke to a supervisor and he was clueless about the issue but promised to put a box of masks by the saw. That never happened nor as far as I can find out is it company policy to wear one. I plan to press this issue with the safety committee but I’m pretty shocked there’s no policy in place. Big companies are always spouting off on how important employee safety is but since they are self-insured I’m convinced they are only concerned with injuries and not health issues. I’ll let you know how I make out.
In my limited experience (building two decks and stairways), the difference between CCA and the newer ACQ formulas is as clear as night and day. I have a deck built in 1994 with CCA that is still in relatively good condition, but the two stairways I built with ACQ both demonstrated rotting treads within just a few years after construction. I replaced the treads on one stairway a couple of years ago with WRC, and am getting geared up to replace the treads on the other stairway this summer. Luckily the latter stairway isn’t used much, since the rotting is getting to dangerous condition.
I’ve been a carpenter for almost two decades now, and I absolutely despise treated wood lumber. It is garbage white pine that’s oftentimes(much more in recent years) twisted, cupped, crowned, high moisture content, or all of the above and is absolutely terrible to work with. Fortunately, I work in an area most of the time that is a dry climate, so I steer my clients away from it as much as possible and get some nice and strong, high quality doug fir. Not to mention the health ramifications that could come from the treatment to both my client and myself.
I built raised beds with ground contact PT Doug fir lumber. I am tearing them down now. They lasted 13 years, barely. In another raised bed, the 4×4 corner post has rotted about half away in 5 years. When tearing down my beds, I noticed that in areas where the wood was covered with heavy duty ground cloth so that the soil was not directly against it, the PT wood was still structurally sound, but in areas where it was directly exposed to the raised bed soil, the wood was deeply decayed. That convinced me that in my new beds, the entire inner surface needs to be covered with heavy-duty landscaping fabric. If my original beds had been thus covered, I think they would have gone 20 years easily.
I can personally attest to the resilience of CCA treated lumber. I dug some fence posts out of the ground a couple summers ago and the tags, still legible and stapled to the posts, were from the early 80’s and the posts looked only slightly worn. This is in heavy clay damp Midwestern soil. Same for dimensional lumber. Newer stuff is not holding up to humidity near as well.
Just a thought about above ground gardening… Start with cheap pine and start small. Many people get tired of gardening long before the pine boards rot. Filling deep beds with quality compost is NOT free for most of us. Gardening is a skill learned through trial and error. If you fall in love with food growing, then you can increase your investment as your gardening and food storage skills improve.
Retired GC here, and I am actually in the process of adding tiers to my raised beds as I type (taking a break). I get all of my PTL from the HD, as I want the color to match when I stain it. I’ve known this for a long time as well, and as soon as I explain this to others on their articles, they are happy to hear it. The copper leach is something like 0.2%, waaay below the EPA acceptable level of 4%, so I consider my food organic. Those who scream this is not organic, are going to get far sicker from simply inhaling city air.
THANK YOU so much for this information! I was having failure of pressure treated wood posts I had put into the ground some 12 years ago. I thought I had done something wrong in my installation, but I was unaware I was using inferior pressure treated wood (even when I used “for ground contact”) compared to the wood fences I built back in the 1980s. It’s that the pressure treating of yester-year was actually better at resisting rot/deterioration than the stuff of 2008 pressure treating. So it was not so much of the way I installed it, it’s just that the materials aren’t of the same quality. Time to re-design my fencing methods!
My neighbors keep burning pressure-treated and compressed wood and also there’s kind of bored that have the foam stuff on them turn like a peach color foam and it looks like it’s compressed down tight wood that looks like wood shavings the burning legs all of that kind of stuff and then I don’t know if this is normal or not but the kind of wood they’re burning which I know is a Scots to be pressure treated wood or not but does pressure treated wood give you a copper taste in your mouth and make you have a nosebleed over time and also doesn’t it also give you very bad migraine like headaches and then make you feel so dizzy that you end up paralyzed for like an few minutes or so
Just for an interesting contrast between materials being discussed and commercial-use treated lumber: I built a shade cloth frame from creosote-treated recycled utility pole cross members. I had previously used them as a garden border for at least ten years in direct contact with the ground with no sign of rot. The down side to using this treated lumber is it stinks and it rotted the shade cloth in about a year where it was in direct contact with the plastic cloth. I plan to line the upper surface of the wood with aluminum flashing and replace the cloth.
Lol well this answers my question. I live in a super moist area. Everything invariably needs replacement– wood is natural and it just rots. Period so I decided to just go cedar since it’s abundant in my area, cheap and easy to access. My roof is actually metal for that reason too, the moss accumulates like a boss. Treated lumber makes sense in certain applications but I just prefer the ease of simplicity and what’s the point if I have to replace it so I will go with cedar Thanks for the article!
Replacing a number of deck boards (2x6s) and one joist, two other joists have some rot but can be repaired, treated, and sistered with a second shorter 2×8. The whole time I’m thinking, this deck is barely 7 yrs old and sealed/stained regularly. Of course all the bad spots are located where water is concentrated from the roof or furniture and the sun rarely shines. Water control / prevention is next step. Your article was very informative, thanks.
I built a ground level deck with PT GC ( post 2004 wood ) wood from 84 lumber, it rotten out in less than 4 years . 84 folks told me they had a problem with that vendor/ supplier and they were sorry. I was out over $1,000 and my time . The deck was buit next to other PT lumber benches, fences, and such that are now 40 years old and perfect . The new PT wood techniques are really not very sustainable either way. Waist of time / $$/ environmental issues/etc…. It was replaced and stained/treated but if I have to replace the deck again, I will use concrete instead 🙂 .
I had a 30 year old 8’ cedar split sapling fence replaced in my southern New England yard. It was really falling apart. The in-ground set fence posts were pressure treated 6x6s. Installed by a reputable fence company I am sure they were near state-of-the-art for the period. I was stunned to see the fence posts were in excellent condition including those portions that had been sitting in there ground all these years. The fence guys took these away…obviously eyeing them for repurposing on their own home projects. I have a rear deck with PT 5/4 decking and dimensional PT framing that has held up very well since 1995.
I just rebuilt my front stairs and replaced porch deck boards because being south facing, they get full sun and rain, and the painting is just not working. The porch was built with closed front stairs, and surrounded by lattice. It always drove me nuts that leaves would get under there and I couldn’t get to them. But it wasn’t until I tore down the old stairs that I saw the leaves that had collected under the stringers. Much of it had mulched into soil, but it definitely hastened the demise of the stringers and surrounding attached wood, despite it sitting on concrete. I rebuilt the stairs to be open, which means more will get under the porch, but I’m also working on a redesign of the lattice and the new project will be better for cleaning out underneath. I think if we think about such things, we can make things last longer. Next is replacing 6 x 6 posts that have rotted at the bottom. I priced them out yesterday at HD and I’m not seeing much that looks visually appealing.
I want to add a 96 SQFT screened in porch to the back of my house. 6 ft wide x 16 ft long. I was going to use treated lumber, but now don’t know what to use. Kansas City, MO area. Will be supported by ledger board, plus 6 vertical 6×6 bolted to buried concrete pillars. Notches cut out of 6×6 to support 2×6 for both floor and roof. Thinking about coating boards with something after cutting to size, but before attaching. That way, all surfaces are covered.
I helped my dad build a large deck out of CCA lumber over 30 years ago. I gave it a close look this past Thanksgiving and it is in surprisingly good shape. Meanwhile I know many other people with newer decks that are rotting out. It is a shame we can’t still use this product for decking as it doesn’t seem to really be all that bad.
I moved in my home 12 years ago and my deck looks like I had for twenty. My wife wanted it laid over with brown stain I Didn’t even have the chance to protest. now almost every board has to be replaced. Also, trying out gardening in a raised bed for the first time. Thanks for pointing out the details for looking at the label 🏷. Next time I’ll pay closer attention.
There was a case of a couple who died from exposure to arsenic from cutting treated wood, because they built a whole house from treated wood and cut the wood even inside the house they kept going to the doctors for being sick but the couldn’t understand why, till they died . I saw it in an old episode of mystery diagnosis long time ago. Back when arsenic was used .
I salvaged some really old barnwood in 2003. I’ve left it stacked and covered in a field. It’s gray and a little warped but I am really surprised that nothing ever tried to get in it to this day. I assumed at some point that nothing of nutritional value was left for bugs? I am guessing from local history the original structure was built in the 1920’s.
Copper in wood… no wonder it’s so dang expensive. No proof (scientific) that CCA is bad, but let’s ban it anyway!! Came here as a DIYer trying to figure out what MCQ meant. It means real expensive wood!!! Nice article and look forward to the label vid. Also, was looking up lumber after perusal your pallet article and how truly bad pallet wood is! Thanks and keep up the good work!!
I live in Australia and cca treated pine is sold here. I have a lot of fence Pailings I’m wanting to use for a garden bed. I just read up that if the vegetables are grown above ground like the fruit, there is no chemicals in it so it should be safe for tomatoes cucumbers and things like that. I’m wanting to know so I don’t make my family sick.
I aint no carpenter but I built a small 15sq/m (-+43sq/ft) deck in my backyard in 2008 with untreated timber and burnt it using the shou ban technique, then applied weather-proof polyurethane and now in 2021 I still cannot see any obvious damage to the deck. I might need to reapply a coat of poly though, just to cover some of the normal wear. I live in the middle of Europe, so we have dry-ish warm summers, and rainy autumns and below freezing winters. Great article bro!
Thanks for the article. I just had my family room drywall opened up to replace hollowed out wood plates/studs from major termite damage. They replaced it with treated wood 2 x 4s and had to do some sawing in the house to fit them into place. The drywall won’t be close back up for another two weeks. The construction area is partitioned off fairly good with plastic sheets. Am OK sitting in my family room perusal tv etc. with the exposed treated lumber if it’s behind plastic? I’m not handling the wood or my face is not close to it. I’m just worried about the sawdust and any fumes that might not be 100% contained during the intervening time when the drywall is put back up. Thanks.
The Arsenic in ACB is lower than it is in peach pits which is the seeds own termite protection. I treat my 22 year old redwood porch with Watco Teak oil every year using old socks (over gloves) as applicator / wiper – on with the right hand, excess off with left hand. Just like the Karate Kid LOL – easy as no sanding is required just washing and let dry first. The annual re oil takes very little of this $40/gallon oil after the first application. The socks and oil pick up most of the “stains” and I change to a clean pair when they get too crudy.
What fascinates me is how this is all a very important aspect of the conversation and thank you for taking the time but the environment is never part of the conversation. It fascinates me how still today the environment is never part of the conversation The cost of getting the lumber to us environmentally is a comparison that’s extremely important to making the choice along with personal financial and health costs. How about a conversation about a cost to our community for the conservation or destruction of the environment in the processing of straight cedar boards compared to treated boards compared to composite boards?
I’m still enjoying a 40 year old deck built from treated 2×6’s. It must’ve been the good stuff. It wasn’t even sealed or stained for about a 15 year stretch. I’ve sanded and flipped a few boards and replaced some rotted nails with screws. It will probably need some reinforcement at the ground contact points within the next couple of years. Other than that, I bet the deck will last another 20 years.
I got deck that been build in 1997. Replaced part after tree fell on it ~8 years ego. All boards been sealed with semi transparent stain/sealer 6 years ego. I plan to replace whole deck surface this winter since both 1997 and 2012 boards look equally bad by now. Stain/sealer I used was only good for 1-2 years. Guess going forward I’ll either splurge on composite decking, plan on replacing wood one every 6-8 years or re-seal it every year.
My back treated deck stairs are around 12 years old and they are starting to get bad cracks in them. We flipped the stair treads over with the hope of getting another 5 years out of the wood. I was putting clear wood seal on it each year and it seem to keep out the rot but did not keep it from cracking because of UV. I am now trying a transparent stain to hopeful cut down on the UV effect. I have a wood picnic table out in the yard that has treated wood that is over 15 years old. I paint it with Redwood Solid Color Oil-Latex Exterior Wood Stain and it has no cracks or rot. I did the same with my lake wood dock. Both look great. It looks like solid stain maybe the way to go to preserve wood the longest. What do you think?
Stop, the answer is very simple…. Please Mr. James… I use Elmer’s outdoor/ indoor water proof glue… at 50% glue and 50% water, mix well, apply in the shade if possible with paint brush…. It makes the wood rough and tough…… You can take a hammer and hit the wood without making a dent…. so you can not prep the wood this way but only after finishing making…… I just took a old glider which was falling apart put it back together with screws and scrub the blank out of it with soap and water and allowed to dry for 24 hours then cover with the glue solution…. even where the wood was split it was hard as concrete and would not break at all… was not going to future split as it was tough!!!! At $35 dollars (aprroximate cost) a gallon it is a little expensive but you do not need it all….. as for bugs and fungus they can not inter the wood!!!!!!! I use this solution all the time like on the work bench so paint will peel off water beads up and the woods can not be marred. ETC.
Cu acts as a Fungicidal in CCA. As. the Insecticide and Cr. the cellulose fixing agent. The 2 replacement Products mentioned here do not have the insecticide As or the stuff – Cr. that binds it all to the wood cellulose. No wonder the 2 Substitutes don’t last more than 10yrs at a stretch; aside from the leeched Cu into the marine environment. Heard of Acetylated Wood? (Accoya is a Trade name for it)
I helped my dad build a deck which he then expanded after they had a sunroom built onto their house. We already have boards that have rotted that I will have to replace next summer. So I think there’s evidence, at least in Ohio’s weather, that they don’t hold up as well. The deck they built off their second story around 91/92 is still fine.
I am a physician. It is important to understand the concept of what causes cancer. DNA, when exposed to that which preserves, will increase the life span of cells, which counter intuitively, increases cancers. Cancer occurs when cells do not die and are not subject to controlled cell death so that the whole organism can live. In fact, some cancer cells that are used in research are over 80 years old and will continue to live forever. Preservatives that reduce decay, such as arsenic, in general, promote cancer for the above mentioned explanation. Therefore, as a general rule, presevatives that prevent the degradation of wood also increase cancer risks. Though there are no studies that link copper to cancer, over and over again, preservatives increase risks of cancer. Wether it is formaldehyde in glues, asbestos in brake pads, arsenic in treated lumber, or phthalates in plastics, the general rule is that if it resists decay then it’s likely to cause cancer.
I agree that newer treated lumber products don’t hold up as well as older variants produced many years ago. I start losing treated boards on my deck to rot and fissures in the grain at 5-8 years depending on the degree of exposure to the sun and weather. I have yet to find a deck stain or paint product that extends board life more than a couple of years.
1345/74D/Corrections I agree with almost all of what you said. But one thing that I keep seeing over and over again is that when I go to the lumber store (I will with hold the name, for the sake of the store. Until I am sure of the cause) I keep trying to get good lumber and there higher quality wood still looks like it is only grade B-C at best. Almost all of it has mold already growing in it. I have to get the best I can find, take it home dry it and sand it down just to try and start to use it (I.E. losing about another 1/8″ W/H/L). So I guess I’m trying to figure out is it just the way the wood is now, or is it just bad storage???
We have lots of decks in western North Carolina, some older ones made of more durable CCA lumber are still in use in 2022. Newer type deck boards have rotted out in 2 to 6 years in some cases, especially near screw or nail holes. I’m considering black locust lumber for my most exposed deck, but haven’t compared it to Trex decking in price per linear foot.
I’m updating the old fence in our house, which is 20 years old, by replacing the rails and pickets for new ones (metal posts are in good shape). I thought to burn the rails in the fireplace, but afraid that some arsenic might be left there (rails look like treated lumber, greenish color and no rot on it, besides some parts, where rusted screws were, they are also significantly heavier than the new rails (which is pressurized wood)). From another side the arsenic might be washed away during all that time (the fence was not painted or stained, just grey pickets which fell apart). So can that lumber be used for fireplace or better to throw it away? Thank you for the informative film, I’m very glad I watched it.
In Florida, I want to build an 8×8 shack framed with some Home Depot Weathershield PT 2×4 that has MCA – Micronized Copper Azole. I was planning letting it dry out over a month and then heavily staining and sealing it. It will be skinned with solid color polycarbonate but the inside will be exposed lumber with no sheathing or drywall. The gables will be open with bug screen, but my question is .. SAFE TO SLEEP IN THE SHACK?
I need to replace rotted/WDI damaged sill and structural members in the basement of a 175 year old house in MA which has an open dirt (with crushed stone on top) floor for more than half of the floor. I need to pour a slab. — Should I not even use wood if the pressure treated won’t last long?? Also curious about treating pressure treated ALSO with Bora Care which protects against fungi that causes rot (in addition to lots of WDI).
Thanks Ethan, well done as usual! I live in a condo in St. Louis and just had the deck replaced. “Plastic” wood for the deck and treated lumber for the joists. Now notice there are white spots around some of the knots in the joists which are only up for about three months. On the Architectural Board and have had a complaint about this from another owner. Would you know right off the bat what that might be or would you like me to send pictures to you for info from you company? Thanks for any help.
I have a lot of fencing that was installed, some about 2 years ago and some about 5yrs. The 5 year old fence was treated with a stain and sealer by me will probably needs to be hit again. The 2-year-old has neverr been treated. What’s the easiest and best way to seal it or preserve it. It’s a lot of fence around my backyard. Thanks for any help
I had a reaction to some commercial wood from a guardrail head.. With in minutes I looked like Clint Eastwood on Hanger Hi. The only thing that would stop the burn was Cordarone.. The next day it was worse.. A week later still having problems 😪. I’m black but the side of my neck red as a stop sign,, with a lot of welts
Good to know. I’ve always wondered whether the treated wood I would use in my backyard firepit had any bad stuff in it. For years in high school and into college I was low on funds and usually couldn’t afford buying bundles of firewood from the store, so I’d drive around parts of Dallas and take huge amounts of scrap/junk wood from construction sites that the builders weren’t going to use or take old wood from trash piles whenever people threw it out from whatever they had used it for before. Some of it I can tell was definitely older than me. Some had paint on it or other chemicals that I could see so I knew that wood for sure probably wasn’t the best to burn, but I didn’t worry as long as the smoke always just went straight up into the air. Most of the wood id collect was just plain construction wood like planks and 2×4’s so I never thought it would have any kind of bad stuff inside it but I guess I was wrong. I don’t burn any kind of this wood anymore as I have an apartment now and nowhere to make bonfires, but it was nice saving tons of money over the years by just using the treated stuff that people would get rid of.
For deck boards and railings, pressure/steam-treated lumber will be rot, insect and mold resistant, since the sugars are cooked out of the lumber, rather than dipping in chemicals. I redecked with THERMORY boards, though the information about it was scant. This is REAL lumber, in choice of white Ash or Scotch Pine, the boards do not shrink, cup or swell. The price is surprisingly competitive to untreated lumber of the same grade. IT shipes in a rich brown finish, which will fade away and turn silver, as would cedar. ( the Scotch Pine flavor ). IT is not necessary to use a finish at all, but if you do, it HAS to be oil based, aas the cell structure of the lumber is altered in the process, making it unable to absorb water.
A little back info I purchased my house in 2005, In 2011 I built my wife a garden area including 8 posts set in concrete 7′ apart with posts over head and 1″x 2″ welded wire running over the top of it. There were ground contact landscaping timbers, round. They should have lasted 20-30 years. Several of the top posts which have seen zero ground contact or anything other than wisteria growing on the welded wire fencing. One of the vertical posts is rotted completely off at the concrete. I also purchased enough of these timbers at various times to create a border for my flower garden, my rose garden and other gardens. Almost all of them have rotted away. I am not impressed at all. I am not sure these treatments do anything other than raise the cost.
I predict a shift towards black locust wood and bamboo composites/bamboo derived products as being the new market leaders or disrupters in lumber Both grow so fast and capture a lot of carbon so the sustainability/eco friendly crowds are going to start championing their plantations and black locust wood’s natural rot resistance can apparently last for up to 100 years Pine, fir and Cedar will always have their place as softwoods but we are going to see a shift towards black locust wood plantations for decking, fencing, in-ground applications and outdoor furniture
hey thanks for this …now i will wow the smarty pants relative with these facts …appreciate your information oh and by the way i watched your article re wood rot and decided to fill window panes that were rotted with special 2 step filler and paint over very large bay window!!!avoided an 8,000$ window for a year or 2 …hopefully a little longer
The US Federal Park Service had contractors build a very expensive wooden bridge Crossing the river at alley Springs Mill in the park at the Jacks Fork River in MO.it’s a County dirt road that goes through the park and they just had it built just a few years ago, and I was there last summer and I was appalled that the Timbers are all rotting THE BIG posts,pilings everything terribly! what a waste of tax dollars and incompetence on the part of the management in our government😮 sickening.
I left a load of 18mm plywood in my van overnight and the next day while driving to work my eyes and throat was on fire. I mean burning. Very uncomfortable and i actually had to pull over because my eyes were streaming. Researched it and it’s called ‘off gassing’ and is caused by the phenol-formaldehyde used in the glue that’s used in the manufacture of the ply. Nasty stuff.
There is also pressure treated wood, that has the f-22 label, that is very toxic. Even the AC2 spec sheet, says; “Preserved wood should not be used where it may come into direct or indirect contact with drinking water, except for uses involving incidental contact such as fresh water docks and bridges. Do not breathe the dust when cutting. Wash clothes worn when handling AC2 separately from other clothing. Do not use preserved wood under circumstances where the preservative may become a component of food, animal feed, or beehives.” They often say “safe for raised garden beds” But if you read the spec sheet, it says raised beds, that are not used to grow food. It says safe for garden beds, not vegetable beds, big difference!!
Ethan, your articles are really informative & helpful, thanks. For Raised Veggie Beds specifically, I came across an alternative midway between Pressure Treated wood & Untreated wood – I was wondering if you (or your viewers) had an opinion on it? It’s called LifeTime Treatment, a water-based ferrous sulphate solution that you paint on wood. They claim it’s 100% safe for veg garden beds, and offers “lifetime” protection against outdoor elements (I’ll settle for 10yrs, never mind “lifetime”)
CCA treated timber is a safe inert chemical. I had a friend who worked for 15 years at a CCA treatment plant and every day he was covered from head to toe in the CCA liquid. He is still with us at age 79 and has led a healthy life. However CCA is a different story if the timber is burned. Thats when the chemicals are dangerous…..The worst thing that ever happened to the treated timber industry was the banning of CCA as a treatment system. The “modern” replacements have nowhere near the life long resilience of CCA. Speaking as a builder with 46 years experience. Cheers
Treated lumber should be clad to keep out the weather The deck boards and posts are really not meant for full rain/sun exposure The posts twist The deckboards crack The paint or stain or clear coat lifts and cracks Just use the treated for structure that you will clad with something that has been kiln dried and has a water repellant surface. A lot of the treated is also wet from being treated so its not a good water repellant if it absorbs water in the first place Clad the treated where water will stand or be absorbed It does rot and 10 years go by kinda quick
For everyone in this comment section does anyone know anyone who has been poisoned by working with CCA treated wood? In my country we don’t have these other treatments as an alternative and many do not even use protective equipment, I cut a lot of wood with CCA, only after a while I started using PPE
Not decks, but in fences, I built two fences, one with a neighbor fence and that was treated with a stain sealant and one unsealed and both failed in the same amount of time and I will be replacing both as we speak, both have the same amount of decay in the 2×4 used, the slats were in better condition. I won’t name the home center that we bought them from, all I will say it is the #1 center in the U.S. but, I will say those pre-made sections turned out to be a terrible product and I will never recommend any time soon. The old adage spend your money and take your chances sure was accurate here.
The rationale behind the continued use of CCA treated timber in New Zealand is that CCA treated timber will almost always last longer than the 20 years or so it takes for a plantation pine tree to grow. Any timber that doesn’t last longer than the growth time of the trees it comes from will inevitably deplete forest resources over time or require additional land to be converted to forestry plantation to keep up with an ever increasing demand. The risks of using CCA are so minor that they haven’t even warranted serious inquiry, but the benefits of having timber last long enough to be genuinely renewable as a resource makes economic and environmental sense.
Can I use the current treatment type of green plywood against a plastic barrier.? Say I have a plastic six mill wrap on the walls of my home. Then I put plywood up against it. With intention of putting siding over that. But there’s never got to the siding I just kept painting the plywood. The wall that faces the west had some rock problems and I was wanting use treated plywood. Also I got the treated plywood at a bargain price. But I don’t wanna eating up the plastic in the insulation pink foam board behind it so the treated green plywood would be in contact directly with the plastic six mill sheeting behind it . If it ate through that then it could get into the insulation I have behind it. I met out they want to help me out on this? I tried calling George Pacific and got nowhere! Sorely disappointed. I figure if I call the big box stores I’ll get as many different answers as I make phone calls. The other thing I thought about doing is putting something between the plywood and the plastic. But you know the more layers add more problems that could be here as far as caulking and ceiling I do have excellent job at that. Far as the house continued being able to breathe that’s not a problem. By the way the west wall which I had the problem with the rock primarily was partially due to the fact that I didn’t stay up on it and I got and blow the windows and the moisture ddid. But dude better health nowadays that will not be a problem. My north wall is Masonary with window outcropping and they were some rot there.
You forgot to mention Methyl Bromide, marked MB on any timber treated, phased out, in the early 2000s, but there is still some around from cannibalised pallets with the stamped parts removed by a few unscrupulous individuals. Folk assume unmarked pallets are safe, so it’s always best to check your sources. You aren’t wrong about the shortened longevity of timber, nowadays, especially if subjected to the elements and your estimation of there lifespan appears on target to me. Harwood are more expensive, but you get what you pay for. The extra decade or so they last, compared to treated softwoods, however, gives you enough time to save up to replace them! 😂 Thanks for posting.
I rather take shorter life span over toxicity,that’s why I’m building my deck out of cedar,sure it cost 2 times more,but its lifespan is 2 times longer of the treated wood one. I think we got spoiled by consumer culture of cheaper and long lasting disregarding the health aspect of building materials,and now we are dealing with side effects such as contaminated landfills, gardens and food supply chain. SURE,I would live to have cheap and long lasting,but as with most things,there is always price to pay,so the bugger question is Do I want my deck,or my health to last longer?
Toxic via the smoke it makes. . FF will tell you this. in case of a fire, the flame/ heat release gas/smoke from the chemicals as it burns is brutal to the lungs. I have a love for Salt treated Pine, You can do anything with it. Inside, outside make anything with it. Butchers Blocks ect. I have about 30 Tons left, after I just wrapped my home in 4X6 BEAUTIFULL Cabin/ Ranch Home Now, Now I’m doing interior, <3 This stuff. Oh and it will last 100 Years. In all weather.
You are hitting it on the head. My marine lumber dock from 1989 looked beatup but was structurally good until replaced in 2023.. There is also risk from rotting structures. If there is a hiking bridge out in the woods that collapses and someone falls 10 feet that is also a bona-fide hazard. If you put copper azole on a dock you are lucky if it lasts 10 years. Basically this is why Decks and Docks sells CCA while Home Depot sells Copper Azole. For backwoods bridges the US Forest Service requires CCA. I understand why copper azole is better for playground equipment. Your kid probably won’t be using the playground equipment for more than 5 years though.
Wow! You learn something new everyday! Here in Guyana I don’t think any of our local woods sold at the lumberyards and sawmills are treated with any chemicals at all. Some are naturally resistant to boring insects and rot, and most are hardwoods. For example, if you are making rafters or floor joists, or anything that may be exposed to wet in construction, Greenheart is the best wood to use. Termites won’t eat it either because apparently it’s poisonous to boring insects. Kabukalli (pronounced Kabookally) can also be used for rafters since it is pretty hard, but it’s not termite resistant. Floorboards are usually of Greenheart, Kabukalli, or Purpleheart. They handle heavy traffic well and are quite lovely if lacquered. These woods are also popular for use as wooden walls. For furniture we tend to use mostly Crabwood, Locust wood, Purpleheart, Womara/Wamara, and sometimes Hububall (pronounced Hooboobally)i. A few furniture makers will work with Tatabu if it is requested but many are unwilling because even though it is beautiful when finished, it is extremely hard and the grain can run in different directions on the same piece of wood. Silverballi is used a lot for drawer boxes since it is relatively soft and resistant to termites as well. It is a bitter wood and I guess they do not like the taste of it. It is a bit harder than your Pinewoods.
I’ve been using CCA treated timber for 34 years. Extensive use for landscaping & general construction plus the highest available treatment for piles etc in coastal region. I have zero skin irritations, respiratory or any other ailments and have never heard of such or any problems with anyone else in or out of the industry. It’s complete and utter balderdash.
Im a carpenter who builds decks for a living since 1987. I have handled and no doubt breathed sawdust from CCA treated lumber as I dont wear a mask of anykind. My co-workers and I have zero effects from the contact of these products. I would worry more from breathing the newer products we use like PVC dust. When ACQ came out it was very corrosive it ate away at aluminum truck bodies and you couldn’t wrap wood with aluminum coil. Also the “above” ground wood is junk. We have been replacing joists and headers made from ACQ. We only use in ground contact now for all construction. I am concerned about treated lumber always have been, not for health but structural. When you cut a 6×6 the depth of treatment is basically surface depth. All decks Ive ever built since the 80s are still in good condition having used CCA. The decks customers continued to maintain with stain or some treatment are in fabulous shape. Back then I only used #1 grade wood for everything. I am forced to use whats available now but dont like ACQ. I believe some environmental zealots made a big to do about nothing as they usually do.
There was nothing wrong with the arsenic lumber with a simple dust mask when cutting but skin contact absorption was never a real safety threat only perceived by people who know what’s best for us. We all touch arsenic to some degree through out our lives naturally don’t need a master’s degree to figure that out.
What about the toxicity of treated lumber after it’s been exposed to rain, sun, snow, etc. over a long number of years? I planned to re-purpose some old fence posts that were originally installed in the late 80’s, early 90’s, as corner posts for a raised garden bed. At this point, could they still be toxic?
Doesn’t seem right to make a natural product into landfill waste (one of those boards said “dont use as mulch”) just to make it last a little longer in the exposed environment of a homeowner who refuses to do any maintenance (not that tar/oil/varnish/whatever are exactly biodegradable themselves). There’s gotta be a better way. Maybe some present or future engineered lumber will give us the suburban wood, unroofed deck everyone thinks they need, but without any “i’m sure it’s fine, but we’ll know if it’s in 100 years” chemicals.
I want what works! Regardless! I get so tired of alphabet agencies sticking their noses! In certain areas where it doesn’t belong! Use stuff that works! For years and then change it! WTF, cloradane for example! Best bug killer ever! Can’t even use that anymore! Now you get stuff that barely kills a piss ant!
Seriously, does anyone know anybody personally that was ever harmed by pressure treated lumber? Seems like carpenters would be falling over dead all over the world. I found one story online, but what seemed to be lacking was evidence of any kind. Just a lot of unproven speculation by the frothing at the mouth media.
Video clearly not made by a professional carpenter/framer/builder. If you were, you would know the weird stuff that happens to our skin when handling these, and you would know how it feels to breathe after ripping fifty or sixty pieces, and you see it in your mates hands and skin as well. I’ve gone to a few funerals of people that should have lived longer, and were told back then “nah asbestos is better, formaldehyde is not that bad, arsenic will clear your lungs”. Maybe you have good intentions with this article, and I welcome the discussion, but if you had nasty stuff growing all over your body because of this garbage treatments, you would have a definite opinion. We have water based paints now, and oils, and because of people’s laziness (how hard is it to do a light sand every couple of years and repaint or re stain) . People want stuff you don’t have to maintain, and are willing to compromise the health of the installers of whichever product. That’s why pressure treatment, silica, etc etc prevails. That’s why corporations like James Hardy are still thriving. Ignorance, laziness and no care.
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Hey Ethan, I’m a new subscriber. The sad truth is, the new treatments are not effective. You were gracious in stating a life span of 8-12 years. Its more like 5-8 years. (or they last only a few years longer than untreated lumber.) The real problem is the EPA. No one realizes that just like all government agencies have to always be finding problems in order to justify their existence. The fact that there was zero evidence that the old treatment was harmful, demonstrates the overreach of the EPA. You even stated that both elements exist in nature. No one knows with certainty. The fact that the EPA can just change an entire industry is not right. They themselves become the ones who pick the winners and losers in industry. They are all self serving bureaucrats who have zero regard on how their decisions effect the citizenry an industries they are supposed to be serving. The Deep State is alive and well.