Neem oil is a natural pesticide that can effectively kill aphids by disrupting their lifecycle. It works well on insects that consume plant leaf matter, making it safe for use. Neem oil can start showing its effects within a few hours to a few days after application, and soil soaks work best on larger outdoor plants that are difficult to spray and can last.
Neem oil can be used to treat various skin conditions, including acne, eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, dermatitis, scleroderma, rheumatoid arthritis, and lupus erythematosus. It may take two days or more before you see a reduction in damage or fewer live insects. To eliminate your target pests completely, you may need to reapply your neem product every three or four days.
However, neem oil does not kill on contact with soft-bodied insects like aphids, so it is not a good choice for young and small insects that can hide in the nooks and crannies of the plant. Neem oil works as a contact insecticide with soft-bodied insects like aphids, so the results should be immediate. Most sources suggest spraying neem oil every seven days until the infestation subsides.
To get rid of aphids with neem oil, mix 2-3 teaspoons of neem oil with 1 cup of water in a spray bottle and add a few drops of dish soap to help the mixture. Neem oil also kills aphids and other soft bugs when sprayed directly on pests. Strengthen your plants’ defenses with plant dips to further enhance their effectiveness.
| Article | Description | Site |
|---|---|---|
| What is the next step for controlling aphids if neem oil … | Mist off with water after an hour to avoid any burn from light – it will kill the Aphids in 30 min anyway. Apply every 3 days or so. Still may … | reddit.com |
| How long does it take for neem oil to get rid of aphids? | The spraying should be done weekly for 4 weeks. The problems are that 1) the very young and small insects can hide in the nooks and crannies of the plant. | quora.com |
| will neem oil kill the aphids?????? | Neem does not kill on contact and only works on pests that chew leaves. Aphids don’t chew leaves so it is not a good choice. You can use and … | tomatoville.com |
📹 Don’t Spray Neem Oil In Your Garden Before Seeing This!
Got aphids, whiteflies, powdery mildew, or black spot in your garden? Don’t spray neem oil before seeing this! Subscribe to the …
How Long Does It Take To Get Rid Of Aphids?
To eliminate aphids, various methods can be employed, including using pesticides which can take two to four weeks to show results, depending on the product and tree size. However, these pesticides may also harm beneficial insects. A straightforward approach involves using a strong stream of water from a hose to wash the aphids off plants, with particular attention to the underside of leaves. This should be repeated every few days until all aphids are gone, usually within two weeks.
Another effective method is releasing ladybugs, which are natural predators of aphids. It is beneficial to mist plants lightly before releasing ladybugs, as it encourages them to stay and drink, especially during cooler times of the day. In addition to these methods, applying soapy water or plant oil washes during winter can help remove aphid eggs from fruit trees and shrubs.
It's important to remove aphids promptly because they drain the sap from plants. There are numerous natural remedies, such as creating a soap-water mixture, or using neem oil or essential oils for control. Handpicking aphids is another option, and one can wear waterproof gloves to gently rub leaves and stems, dislodging or crushing them.
If treated effectively, aphid infestations can be controlled; however, they reproduce quickly, making early intervention crucial. Regular weekly sprays may be necessary over four weeks for severe infestations. Overall, maintaining vigilance and employing natural or organic solutions is recommended to keep aphid populations in check while safeguarding beneficial insects.
What Is The Lifespan Of Neem Oil?
Neem kernel oil and depulped neem seed oil have a shelf life of 24 months, with an initial validity of the electronic Neem Warranty Registration (e NWR) lasting 12 months. This can be extended for an additional 6 months, with a maximum of 2 extensions allowed. Generally, neem oil should last between 1 to 1. 5 years if stored properly, and possibly up to 3 years if sealed. Once opened, however, it should be utilized within 6 months. For prolonged shelf life, it is advisable to purchase pure, cold-pressed neem oil typically found in dark glass bottles, which helps extend its potency.
If stored well, neem oil can last about 2 years in the refrigerator, but exposure to bacteria after being opened can significantly reduce its lifespan to just a few days. The mixture of neem oil and water maintains activity for about 8 hours, whereas neem oil remains effective on plant leaves for 1-2. 5 days due to rapid breakdown.
In essence, while pure neem oil may last 2 to 5 years unopened, it's recommended to check labels for specific expiration dates and discard any unused product after a year from purchase if uncertain. When mixed, it’s best to prepare only the amount needed for immediate use. Overall, neem oil can be expected to have an effective lifespan of 1 to 3 years under optimal conditions, particularly when stored away from light and heat. Proper storage and handling are key to maintaining its effectiveness over time.
What Happens If You Spray Too Much Neem Oil On Plants?
Using excessive neem oil can lead to serious harm to plants, particularly if they are exposed to direct, harsh sunlight. Neem oil, which contains multiple organic compounds, is most effective due to azadirachtin, a substance that disrupts pests' feeding and reproductive abilities. However, overapplication can suffocate leaves by creating a coating that hinders their photosynthetic abilities, potentially causing leaf burn and stunted growth. It's crucial to dilute neem oil properly to avoid these adverse effects.
Several negative consequences arise from applying too much neem oil. For indoor plants, excessive spraying can coat the leaves, blocking their pores and impeding essential processes like photosynthesis. This accumulation can cause leaf wilting, drop, and difficulty in germinating new plants. Specific plant types, particularly those with delicate leaves like herbs (e. g., basil, cilantro, parsley), are especially sensitive to neem oil exposure and should be treated with caution. Additionally, the oil can exacerbate nutrient burn if the concentration is too strong.
If you notice increased leaf wilting or damage after using neem oil, it’s essential to take immediate action. Rinsing the leaves and avoiding high concentrations in future applications can help mitigate the damage. It's advisable to adhere to recommended dilution rates and monitor plants closely for any negative reactions, particularly when applying frequently or in hot environments. Overapplication can lead to severe consequences, including blocking leaf pores and creating a stressful environment for plants. Therefore, moderation and correct dilution are key to safely utilizing neem oil as a natural pesticide without harming plant health.
Does Neem Oil Kill Aphids On Roses?
Neem oil is a highly effective home remedy for controlling aphids on roses and acts as a natural pesticide against spider mites, scale, and other pests. It can also be utilized as a dormant spray to manage overwintering insect eggs. To use neem oil effectively, patience and persistence are key. Always dilute neem oil before applying it to prevent burning the plants. Shake the mixture well and spray it generously on the rose bush, ensuring that you coat the undersides of the leaves where aphids often hide.
To prepare neem oil, purchase pure neem from a store and mix it following the recommended instructions—commonly a combination of 1 teaspoon of organic neem oil and 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of mild liquid soap in one to two liters of water. Regular spraying will help maintain control over aphid populations. Neem oil works by inhibiting aphids' movement, feeding, and disrupting their life cycle while smothering the insects.
Despite some neem oil products containing added Permethrin—an insecticide to avoid due to its harm to beneficial insects—neem oil stands out as a non-toxic and versatile solution. Note that neem oil does not offer instant results; it gradually controls infestations. Combining neem oil with horticultural oil during the dormant season can enhance its effectiveness.
However, caution is advised as neem oil can be toxic to bees; therefore, it's best to apply it in the evening. Overall, neem oil not only combats aphids but also protects against a range of garden pests, diseases, and can improve the health of your rose plants.
What Happens If You Leave Neem Oil On Overnight?
Neem oil can be effectively applied diluted once daily for 1 to 2 hours. Leaving it overnight might lead to skin irritation. It's important to follow product labels for premade solutions, like OTC shampoos. When using neem oil on skin, apply a few drops, let it sit for 20 minutes, then wash off. Leaving neem oil overnight on the skin can enhance its benefits for conditions like acne, but due to its potency, it may cause irritation.
For the face, it is advisable to use neem oil as a spot treatment for acne or scars, rather than leaving it on overnight, to avoid potential redness, itching, or burning sensations. Always perform a patch test before full application.
For maximum efficacy, neem oil should be diluted with a carrier oil for hair, where it can be massaged into the scalp and left for 30 minutes to an hour before washing. Though it can help with hair thinning and dandruff, prolonged or frequent application may irritate the scalp. For skin, neem oil’s potential benefits include improving overall skin health, yet precautions should be taken as it can cause adverse reactions, especially in sensitive individuals.
Therefore, starting slowly and monitoring your skin's reaction is essential. Neem oil is traditionally used in various practices for its healing properties, but it is potent and should be handled with care to prevent irritation or contact dermatitis.
Does Neem Oil Really Kill Aphids?
Neem oil is an effective organic pesticide against a variety of pests, notably spider mites, aphids, thrips, whiteflies, and gnats. The key ingredient, azadirachtin, disrupts the life cycle of insect pests, hindering their maturation and reproductive processes. Specifically, neem oil excels at smothering aphids—when sprayed directly, it suffocates them. Additionally, azadirachtin deters aphids from feeding on plants. Although neem oil does effectively kill aphids, its action isn't immediate; noticeable results may take days and often require multiple applications to eradicate aphid populations fully.
Typically, when purchasing neem oil, one acquires clarified hydrophobic neem oil, which lacks azadirachtin as it is processed to remove this compound. While this type of neem oil and horticultural oils both operate by smothering soft-bodied pests like aphids, the absence of azadirachtin means it cannot disrupt insect hormones related to feeding and reproduction. Research indicates neem oil can eliminate up to 77% of soybean aphids, although some species may pose more challenges.
Using neem oil effectively involves both soil soaking and foliar sprays, targeting not just aphids but also ants and sooty mold. Moreover, it offers a natural alternative to chemical pesticides, making it popular among gardeners. It's essential to note that neem oil does not kill instantaneously; it primarily works through suffocating and deterring pests from feeding. For gardeners, understanding the specific aphid type assists in managing expectations regarding neem oil's effectiveness. Consequently, neem oil presents a viable natural solution for pest control, particularly beneficial in maintaining healthy flora.
How Long Does Neem Oil Take To Work?
Neem oil requires time to effectively eliminate pests, with noticeable results often taking 4 to 7 days after application. It is crucial to apply neem oil according to specific instructions, potentially reapplying every three to four days for thorough pest eradication. One of the primary methods to use neem oil is as a dormant spray, targeting overwintering pests during a dry and windless day for optimal effectiveness.
Typically, neem oil shows results within 24 hours, yet full pest control might extend up to two weeks, depending on the type and severity of the infestation. In general, neem oil is effective against most bugs within 3 to 4 days; however, some situations may require 5 to 7 days. Vulnerable pests, particularly larvae and soft-bodied nymphs, are more likely to be affected sooner.
It is essential to be patient, as the treated pests may take time to completely decrease, and the next generation of pests may be prevented from emerging. Neem oil works by disrupting the life cycles of pests, leading to gradual control. The oil has a quick half-life of 1 to 2. 5 days post-application on plants, necessitating regular reapplication for sustained effectiveness. For soil applications, a preventative soak should be done every three weeks during the planting season.
In conclusion, employing neem oil as a consistent treatment is vital to success, allowing for multiple interactions with pests throughout their life stages to ensure a significant reduction in infestation.
How Long Does Neem Oil Take To Kill Bugs?
Neem oil is an organic pesticide solution effective against insects, mites, and fungi affecting plants. It typically requires 3-4 days to kill most bugs, though 5-7 days is common due to the time needed for its chemical compounds to act. It is particularly effective against larvae and soft-bodied nymphs, while mature, hard-bodied insects are more resistant. Patience is crucial, and repeated applications every seven days are recommended to keep pests at bay.
Neem oil disrupts feeding and reproduction, effectively killing soft-bodied insects like aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies, and it also acts as an insect repellent by forming a protective oil on plants.
To enhance its effectiveness, neem oil should be applied early in the day or late evening to prevent potential leaf damage from midday heat and direct sunlight. With proper storage in a cool, dry place, neem oil can last from 1 to 3 years. A neem oil solution, once mixed with water and an emulsifier, remains effective for only a few hours. The time it takes to see results varies based on factors like infestation severity, insect type, and neem oil formulation; reductions in live insect presence might take two days or longer.
Applying neem oil multiple times over a period—like three applications within 21 days—can tackle less severe infestations. For effective pest management, understanding how neem oil works and following optimal application tips is essential.
How Long To Let Neem Oil Sit On Plants?
To keep your plants dust-free and shiny, let them sit for 10 minutes after applying neem oil, then gently wipe the leaves with a soft cloth. Neem oil can be added to your watering can to strengthen roots and protect against pests. Its effective half-life is 1-2. 5 days, necessitating regular reapplication every 7-14 days for continuous pest control. Consider applying neem oil early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid burning leaves due to direct sunlight.
For regular maintenance, apply neem oil every two to three weeks; however, for pest or disease outbreaks, increase frequency to once every 7 days. Neem oil acts as a natural pesticide and repellent for both indoor and outdoor plants. Proper mixing and application are vital to prevent harm to beneficial insects and aquatic life.
For moderate pest infestations, weekly application is recommended for 3-4 weeks. Avoid applying neem oil more than once a week to prevent plant harm. It usually takes 2-3 days to kill bugs and remains effective for up to a week. Spray the leaves, stems, and soil, letting it sit for a few hours or up to two-three days as a spot treatment, ensuring the mixture is shielded from other plants and sunlight. Test the mixture on a small leaf area beforehand and observe for 24 hours for any adverse effects.
It’s best to apply neem oil when rain is not expected within 24 hours, and avoid saturating leaves before application. Always shake the spray bottle to maintain an even mix and apply cautiously to safeguard beneficial insects. Using these guidelines, neem oil can greatly assist in maintaining plant health while managing pest populations.
📹 “Stop using Neem” to control Aphids. The aphid is a messenger!
In this video, Patti is demonstrating and talks about aphids in an organic regenerative greenhouse. How to deal with the aphids …
I made it back with my farm website and subbed here too. Infinite blessings. (First message)So grateful for your awareness!!! What a delight to have found you!!! I am a Veganic farmer and I will be subbing on my farm website as well. I am just starting out teaching others on my farm website and will def spread your beautiful wisdom.
Patti, I live on the 15 storey, my neighbour has aphid infestation on her pepper plants. I just planted 10 pots of pepper and we share the same corridor, will the aphids attack my plants once her plants are destroyed? She doesn’t want to treat her plant and I am pretty sure it is not going to survive because all the leaves almost brown, crumpled and bubbling. We don’t have beneficial insects on a high rise building.
Last year I 1st encountered these black bean aphids on my Asian long beans and what a pain in the rear but why all of a sudden these critters 10 year never before, it dawned on me last year was the year I didn’t use manure with my veggies, I switched to fertiliser only. My thinking is aphids don’t not like manure grown veggies so I planted 1 roe with fertiliser and 1 with manure and wow look at that the roe with fertiliser is full of them and the other is clean and now I’m seeing them on other veggies but not the roe with manure. As for killing them sunflower oil and dish soap did the job but they return quickly either because of the ants or the spray misses a few but either way what a pain….
No one has taught this thing about aphids! Everyone just use pesticides to get rid of them. I also thought there is some nutrition deficiency in plant that might be the cause but this article proves it all! Can you please guide about fungal diseases like powdery mildew, downy mildew, anthranose, are these diseases also caused by stressed plants.
From Albany NY, I love your articles. I’m a want – to – be urban lettuce grower on a very small scale. Your articles support my goal of producing the most nutritious greens I can while using climate friendly practices. I used low tunnels to over winter crops for the first time this year. Unfortunately due to the crazy mild winter ( climate change ) I harvested greens twice this January. Plants have actually grown even in the dark time of winter. They have grown very slowly but they did grow. Keep up your great work. Your explanation are so common sense.
Thanks you very much. This makes perfect sense. When the pests appear it means your plant needs something its not getting now. Fertilize more at this point and watch nature take care of the pest problem. The perfect cycle. I have a question please, pests like mole crickets which travel underground, does this apply? Will they also stay away from healthy plants or is something else needed here? Thanks so much again. Voices of simplicity, reason and experience are rare and precious in this time.
“Healthy plants can’t get infested with any insects”, I had learned, not too long ago. This was a article on Brix in the plant, using equipment that checks the Brix number. Any plant at “12”, or higher, means it’s healthy, and higher Brix bring higher prices, especially popular with great Chefs. Apparently, when a plant isn’t fully healthy, it puts out Pheromones that attract insects, and the insects send out Pheromones that there’s a plant “dying”, and needs to be eaten. Very interesting research they’ve been coming up with! Thanks for explaining these basics in a very simple way!👍💯🙏✌️
I have to disagree. Aphids in my experience with them are able to eat anything that is edible. Yes they can feed faster on plants that are wilting, but they still eat ones that are thriving. Anything that isnt toxic to them gets dessicated. I had a completely healthy soilless plant ( one of those ones with no soil, the air plants ) and it put out the most beautiful flowers and aphids ate them and ruined such a beautiful bloom. I only got aphids in my home because I took in rain water from outside. They wouldnt of been able to enter the home if I didnt transport them in. Lesson learned. Only use clean spring or reverse osmosis/distilled water. Your point of view is similar to saying we have internal parasites because we need to eat better. Fact is, you can eat alot cleaner and you still wont get rid of the parasites once they are in You. The measures You have to take there-after are extreme. The aphids in my home are now gone because they consumed every plant that wasnt toxic until they all died, only plants like my snake plants and a couple other ones that are toxic to aphids remained. Now I’ll be careful to look for pests in plants I buy and isolate them after buying.
Over wintering my baby lemon trees they have such delicious leaves at some point the little flys come in so tiny. This year the pomegranate trees all died (after 2 years)from aphids I put ash on them in the past it worked pretty good/watering from the bottom. I just use ash from the wood burning stove it works on roses / now I put garlic in between the lemon trees even in the same pot/ sort of got better still looking for long term solution as I am trying to make a successful nursery(just retired)
I appreciate you! ❤Wonderful article that reminds us of what it means for plants to be under stress in some way! This works practically the same for human beings also. How? When humans are stressed in some way, and it could be on the physical level, the emotional level or the mental level, then it opens them up to illness or disease. This is why it’s so important to take care of ourselves both physically and spiritually. As for the plants … yes, it could be that they need this nutrition that u recommend. But this is a reminder that there could be other factors of stresses present (and each plant has a different threshold), for example, not getting the full spectrum of the sun’s rays, such as ultraviolet, which may be filtered out in the greenhouse. I don’t have data, but just something to look into further … I believe that the combo of using the nutrition that u show us in the article, along with using an anti aphid spray will work even better!! If u haven’t yet experimented with goldenrod leaves, then give this a try. The mascerated leaves (not the flower raceme) and stems placed into an alcohol solution to give a tincture (aged). Then, after this tincture is complete, mix it with water in a spray bottle. I believe it will be very effective at dispersing the aphids. I am pretty certain that the goldenrod tincture will not kill the beneficial insects. 💜
fairytales. yes there’s some truth to too much nitrogen making aphid infestations worse however, all modern veggied were developed to be grown quick, be not tough, and be sweet, whilst plant natural defences (bitter compounds) are much reduced. neem oil is not very effective, so use standard whiteoil and/or pyrethrum etc., applied at right intervals, to knock infestations right back, before the aphids do much damage. too much fairytale holistic nonsense is readily sold to backyard growers, as expert advice. usually along with emotional manipulation.
My reply, while I am starting to watch the article, is to increase the brix in a plant to a point where the pests can not handle it. A high brix measurement is the result of the “better photosynthesis” you just mentioned. Im not real sure how a typical greenhouse would grow a diverse polyculture of cover crops and increase the organic content in the soil that lets mycelium and bacteria thrive, that are supposed to be feeding the plants after the plants have fed them the carrbohydrates from photosynthesis that they exude from their roots. In light of this information, and other info I have learned about the light of life, I am questioning how wise greenhouses are. The plants would definitely have “better photosynthesis” in raw sunlight.
Thank you Patti. This is the other half of what I needed. I had massive aphid infestation in my watermelons this year and lady bugs showed up. I finally got the confidence to wait for them to multiply and wow did they ever. I did not however, think about the plants were possibly missing nutrients. I can’t wait to try this out.
I live in a caravan Park, so I grow in pots. I don’t like chemical products to kill pests, trying to be organic as much as I can. I do use copper sulphate and Seasol as required. As a gardener I look at all my plants daily and if acids come I go leaf by leaf and using my fingers kill them. Two to three weeks of this problem goes away and plant gets better. I think this lady has some good thoughts and next year and ones after will look and try stuff. Cheers from Tasmania
I love this advice! I grow in the open and in greenhouses. I love the results of minor nutrients! I didn’t know the science behind the aphid thing, but instinctively knew that when they show up the plant needed a boost. When I see aphids I also just note that I will be welcoming in some helpful predatory bug soon. Usually about 4-7 days later I start seeing lots of wasps, lady bugs, ants, whitefly’s and more. I love them all. That all have their place, and I am so pleased to support any part of the ecosystem. ❤️❤️❤️
I notice that the package you use has boron as one of these minerals. That is an ant/insect killer in itself. But also, trees/plants do use this mineral(and others) for the process of photosynthesis. I am hoping to be more prepared for this spring coming as this year my fruiting trees were viviously attecked by aphids, this being after I had given all my fruit trees the autumn before a good pruning. They were thus in a state of shock still. This year coming will bring me a better harvest i am sure.
Thanks Patti for the repetition and reminders. I finally got it. I specifically enjoyed the “teaching kids” comment. I’m in my 70th year of gardening and haven’t been called a kid in many decades. I remember pulling weeds and, a couple wings off of a lacewing, at my grandpa’s feet in the garden. I remember him explain how beneficial lacewings are for the plants. “If ever I let my plants get weak,” he’d say, “the lacewings and lady bugs are the plants defenders from the aphid army. Leave the dandelions alone, the bees and lacewings love them, and so do I in my tea.” I sure do miss that old fella. He sure taught me a lot. More than I can remember these days.
If this was true then why do certain cultivars always get aphids and others do not? Some strains of plants are naturally susceptible to aphids no matter how healthy the plant is. I would argue that the more healthy the plant is, the higher sugar content. Which attracts ants and aphids. Aphids do not like full sun so the number one key is to have as much full sun as possible.
Neem controls everything on a natural level. Besides heavy Co2 you are barking up a wrong tree. When there is a fix why fight harder for less result. I am a master gardener. I know there are methods out there but i have been growing everything since the age 10. This seems like a lot of work in comparison
I’ve never had an aphid problem until tomatoes near the end of our early season drought, and then excess rains the next 4 weeks, killing my tomatoes in my main garden. Honestly, I thought it was showing I have a drainage problem and in an area further from my water system where it was tomatoes following sunflowers that did great until frost. I’ve improved the drainage for the main tomato patch and hopefully have a great gardening experience this coming year. I’m organic and tried no tilt that seem good for the first 2 season and believe my clay base soil doesn’t need no tilt but still limited turning over the soil. 100 percent agreement 🤝 with this message of this great article Thanks Lady Gardener
As a long time Gardener and long term sprayers of just about everything sold at the stores I thank you!!! I’m an adopter of organic gardening and looking to learn more everyday. Mrs Patti your articles are awesome and very informative, NOT complicated to understand. I have countless hours invested in permaculture articles but it’s a lot to digest. At the end of the day I like many other people just want to be responsible gardeners and have fun, YOU make that possible.
Currently my main problem is conserving water as I am in central California and it only gets more expensive, but having a bare unplanted property only helps dry the land out. I have looked at many different water conservation planting tricks including mixing peat moss or coconut coir into the soil, shading the ground with mulch & shady plants so the sun doesn’t steal its moisture, clay olla pots buried that you fill with water and cap off. The plants root to the pots and suck out extra water. And planting in divots about a foot or so deep which they do in the arid Canary islands off of Africa. Thats how I’m going to do my trees and the more water loving plants.
Planting too many of the same type of plants together consolidates the scent for pests to find them more easily. Even in the vegetable garden you should alternate plants between each other. Plant some plants that aphids & others don’t generally go to in between them. Maybe some herbs & marigold flowers. Also, when I lived near farm fields there were less beneficial bugs as the farmers spray poison, and then a million white flys hatched out from the fields as it didn’t kill the eggs. They came in clouds and sucked the life out of my squash plants within a week. And when the farmer switched his local fields to cotton, they would crop dust spray some sort of plant killer to dry out the cotton plants to help them harvest the boles. Killed nearly everything I tried to grow in my yard. I moved away eventually. Now I live near a new avocado grove on the coast. No doubt whatever attacks those trees will hatch out en-mass. LOL but just saying, sometimes its not your fault if your plants fail. If you live near farmers, the whole ecology will likely be out of whack. Their massive fields of all the same crop is a big scent marker for certain bugs and they hatch even from the cut plants or weeds around the perimeter, or the hay crops that are let dry. Even with all the poisoning. Because life finds a way to still get at those crops. They lay eggs, then eat. Meanwhile the bees & butterflies & other pollinators take the hit & many species have nearly died out. Along with song birds who eat them.
Most folks aphid infestation issues can be boiled down to one issue. Exclusion/extermination of predators. I stopped having aphid issues in my garden when I stopped spraying wasp nests around my home. I still knock them off my actual house, im not insane, but I make areas around the property where they are more liable to nest safely and happily. My kids know to leave their area alone, and the wasps are perfectly polite neighbors in the garden. They’ve never stung me or either of my boys despite landing on us and having a ride around the patch now and again. We dont have to stop moving or be overly precious around them. They fully know and trust us just like a beekeeper and their bees. So long as we aren’t messing with their nest they’re perfectly happy to share the space.
I have always had a massive aphid issue among many other bugs that devour my plants. To my delight, last spring was the first time i ever saw a mantid egg sack in my yard! Once it hatched i would strategically care & move those adorable little babies to the plants that needed them the most. Another first for me was seeing ladybugs laying eggs all over my cherry tree. Tons! I did the same and moved some of the larvae around to my roses, etc… It was an all out war in my garden last summer and it was kinda fun to watch. 🤭 I cant wait to see what next spring brings!
I have aphid problems after cold stress or lack of water. I remove the affected new growth and fix the water deficit. If it’s due to cold I just prune alone. I also have certain beans where ants and aphids (well known combo) take over and I let them. As much as I like beans I figure I got the nitrogen fixing from the legume so I got something out of it. Here in Florida some plants will be lost to pests and it’s better to just not grow them again unless it has other benefits like pollinator attracting or nitrogen fixing. Aphids here are protected by ants who eat their secretions. Hard to find aphid predators with ants protecting them so solution here are to fix what ever stresses plants.
I’m callin bs. I grow bomb indoor. I also grow ornamentals and vegetables. I keep brix very high with calcium and amino acid foliar every two days. Every year I get some aphids brought in from plants I over winter. Wasp(not sure the name but looks like a small ant with wings) we’re bought the first year and killed them all within a month. This year I noticed aphids and the wasp on the plants I brought in, both are completely gone now. Aphids avoid healthy plants but I assure you they can eat them when they have no unhealthy plants.
Hey there, I’m a researcher and farmer from India. I usually here these kinds of conversations. Aphids are heavy reproducers, so just relying on lace wings or lady beatles is over optimistic as they are easily outnumbered. I suggest some proactive approach to this, although it’s nothing new but still makes sense. First understand at what temperature they thrive, it’s 20-30 degrees or mostly when it’s cloudy. So keep look on weather forecasts and be proactive if you see prolonged weather patterns conducive to aphids. Next take preventive measures. Here choose what suits you. I prefer nutrition management. Just pouring everything in soil is not the way. Insects suck the parts which are fresh and easy to chew. So idea is to bar excess nitrogen or smoothness in leaves by increasing K and P. I also give zinc and silicon to aid it and make cell wall strong. Sprays are good if done proactively, otherwise you can’t keep up with their growth rate. OK, all the best. Happy farming! Understand science and use it to your advantage, don’t shy away from using right thing at right time.
Your observation might be correct but my observation is that ants actually establish aphid colonies on seemingly healthy plants. The ants are interested in the sweet, sticky excreta from the aphids. So another way of controlling aphids is to eliminate the ants. You could check for the presence of ants on the plants where aphids are present.
Patti thank you from Dooralong, about 1.5 hours drive north west of Sydney Australia. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. We have such a ‘kill pests’ society, but if we slow down and observe better and appreciate nature we can see that our role is to encourage desired growth. Aphids almost killed one of my lemon trees last year, and sprays didn’t seem to work. Now I’m managing the tree and its environment better there are no aphids and good growth… lesson learned !
Your strategy also goes for the human body! Everything depends on some sort of microbiome to thrive. I did not think of your idea that the plants were not getting enough of certain nutrients to be healthy and ward off the predators and diseases. I’ll work on the nutrition by adding more worm castings and some worms. Note: Recently I had aphids appear from nowhere indoors (maybe my living soil?) so I ordered some lady beetles but they just walked right over the aphids! To get rid of the aphids I took the plants outside and hosed them off. Another thing about aphids is to see if the ants are farming them. That’s a whole other chapter!!
Saying Hello from South Africa I have and a wide spread of Aphids and Spider Mites. I cant get rid of any of them. I have given many nutrients and sprayed worm tea. But I am not winning this year. Would be great to know how to fix up the plant. Or should one get rid of the plant and start again? How do you know if the soil is the issue. Thanks for the article. I have never had luck with neem oil. But leaving aphids alone does not bring beneficial bugs in my case.
I had a whitefly infestation in my garden last spring/summer attacking all my tomatoes/peppers and nearly every plant. It started indoors when I grew my tomato and pepper seedling. One thing I discovered is that Whiteflies suck out enough juice that it prevents plants from developing their natural chemical defenses including the necessary chemicals to ripen tomatoes evenly. Only one variety of tomatoes was able to ripen normally. Perhaps there’s a tipping point, but I don’t think getting plants to photosynthesize normally is going to self-cure severe aphid and whitefly problems. I used neem oil 2x per week, but it made no difference. I did notice a lot of lady-beetle nymphs.. finally the mid summer heat and lack of new tomato growth knocked back the whitefly population. Overall, it was a disaster to my tomato harvest, less fruit and much not-fully ripe.
I finally found the website that i can resonate with! I totally agree with you. Last year, after i tried spraying multiple times for weeks, my bell pepper plants were still heavily infested by aphids. Neem oil, soapy water, aphid spray, all did not help to improve the situation. I gave up and concluded with the theory that if the plant is healthy, it will survive pest attack/ attract lesser pests. I just prune it and let it grow. Unfortunately they could not produce new branch and finally died. I accepted the fact and just replan from seeds. No problem. I no longer get too upset with sick plants. If they can survive, they will. If not, I’ll let it fight against the sickness. You are right, think and spend more energy on improving the health of the plants rather than killing the signals. Thank you so much. 🎉
Hello from the uk, Love this article. I personally dont use anythink on any plants outdoors apart from horse manure and shreadded leaves on bark as top dressing. i believe that what dos well in my garden stays and thats what i grow. There is no reson to use chemicals. If you listen to what your garden is telling you and take care of it right it will all work out x