To maintain the integrity of your pack’s leather work gloves, tumble dry low with clean tennis balls to return full loft of down. Check every 15-20 minutes and break up any remaining clumps of feathers. Remove from the dryer promptly (may take a few cycles). Dirt and grime will abrade the fabric and wear it out. For localized cleaning, use a sponge with warm water. When cleaning the entire pack, wash in a bathtub filled with cold water, using a non-detergent soap. Dry the pack by stuffing it loosely with newspaper and hanging it in the shade.
For mountain hardwear Tempest gloves, which are thick and waterproof, I have been looking for replacements. I have found that gloves can get quite smelly inside, especially waterproof and insulated gloves and mitts. Knowing how to wash work gloves is necessary to ensure their protective gear will last long. First, consider the material of your gloves to prevent damages. Lay the gloves flat on an absorbent towel and use a soapy cloth to wipe away grime from the gloves starting at the wrist and working toward each fingertip. Be sure to clean well between each finger. Rinse the cloth often as the soil is transferred and reapply soap as needed.
Cleaning the inside of leather work gloves is not a common practice, but if needed, examine the inside for dirt or odors. Gently shake the gloves to remove loose debris. Dampen a soft cloth or sponge with mild soapy water and wipe the inside where needed.
Leather work gloves are an essential part of any handyman’s toolkit, providing protection, durability, and comfort. Hand wash in lukewarm water with a small amount of liquid detergent, avoid machine washing (105°F/40°C), and use a carabiner loop for hanging to keep gloves dry when not in use.
| Article | Description | Site |
|---|---|---|
| Caring for Gloves and Accessories | Place one glove on your hand and immerse, using a cloth or soft-bristled scrubbing brush to gently clean the outside of the glove. Then remove the glove from … | mountain-equipment.com |
| Gloves Care Instructions | GORE-TEX Brand | Hand wash in lukewarm water. Only use a small amount of liquid detergent; Don’t machine wash (machines can be too rough) or dry clean; Don’t use … | gore-tex.com |
| How do you guys keep your gloves clean? : r/MTB | Don’t put them in the dryer. That’s how they get extra crispy. Hand wash in a sink and air dry. Or gentle cycle in the washer with a mild detergent. | reddit.com |
📹 How to remove garment tags – Mountain Hardwear Gloves
How To Wash Kevlar Gloves?
Most Kevlar gloves can be washed in a machine for 20 minutes with laundry soap. If heavily soiled, repeat the washing and rinsing process up to three times. After washing, rinse gloves in clean, hot water, and finish by rinsing them in cold water. To avoid shrinkage and extend their longevity, use commercial laundry soap or detergent that does not contain chlorine or bleach. On average, typical glove shrinkage is 3% or less over ten cleaning cycles when using 100% Kevlar® fibers. Cut-resistant gloves, often made from Kevlar, metal, or tightly-knit fibers, are generally easy to clean.
In the case of Kevlar gloves, preferred detergents like OxiClean can both clean and deodorize, while washing at 60-90°C is recommended for removing contaminants, particularly in food-related settings. For nylon gloves, warm water with regular detergent suffices, followed by air drying or low-heat drying.
Avoid using strong acids, bleach, or whitening agents, as these can weaken the yarn. For hand washing, apply dish soap inside the gloves, wash hands for 1-2 minutes, then rinse thoroughly. A stiff brush with hot water and soap can be effective, followed by hanging to dry. Ensure the washing machine isn’t overfilled (maximum 2/3 full) and pre-wash at 40°C. The best method is simply using detergent without additional harsh cleaners to safeguard the gloves' cut resistance.
Can You Wash Gloves In The Washing Machine?
To wash gloves effectively while ensuring their longevity, start by choosing cold water to protect fabrics, especially for fleece or Sherpa-lined gloves. Select the suitable washer setting, typically a "Normal" or "Delicate" cycle, particularly for synthetic gloves. While latex and nitrile gloves are usually disposable, rubber cleaning gloves can be washed on a gentle cycle, but precautions are necessary to avoid damage. Cotton, polyester knit, and wool gloves can be machine washed safely using mild detergent in cold water; nylon gloves are best in warm water.
Boxing gloves should be placed in a mesh laundry bag and washed delicately with cold water. For sports gloves like goalkeeper gloves, machine washing is generally discouraged due to material degradation from water exposure and agitation.
Rubber gloves can be washed in a machine, ideally using a gentle cycle to prevent wear. Always consider washing gloves alone or with similar colors to avoid cross-contamination. When drying, it’s advisable to air dry near a dehumidifier or use low heat settings. Lastly, leather gloves should never be washed in the machine; for stain removal, alternative methods should be employed. Overall, machine washing is suitable for most fabric gloves as long as cold water, mild detergent, and gentle cycles are utilized. This ensures protective care and maintained effectiveness for your gloves.
How To Get Rid Of Odor In Ski Gloves?
To remove unpleasant odors from your ski gloves effectively, follow several key methods. One highly effective solution is to mix equal parts vinegar and warm water in a bowl. Use a clean cloth dampened with this mixture to gently wipe the interior of the gloves, focusing on odor-absorbing areas, while ensuring not to saturate the leather to prevent damage.
After each use, it is essential to air out the gloves to combat odor buildup caused by sweat, moisture, and bacteria. Additionally, utilizing natural odor neutralizers like baking soda or activated charcoal can help absorb lingering smells. If your gloves develop a foul odor, it generally indicates bacterial growth prompted by perspiration and moisture.
Regular cleaning can help maintain freshness by eliminating sweat, dirt, and bacteria. Instead of frequent washing, which might not be effective long-term, opt for hand washing when necessary. Before washing, remove excess dirt with a dry rag, then spot clean with water. For deeper cleaning, apply a vinegar-water mixture or mild detergent mixed with warm water.
You may consider other methods, such as spraying alcohol inside gloves to eradicate bacteria, using desiccant packets to absorb moisture, or even freezing the gloves temporarily to kill bacteria. Avoid products like Febreze that may contain irritants.
A simple three-step process to hand wash includes filling a sink with warm water, applying a mild detergent or vinegar, scrubbing gently, and then air drying the gloves. Additionally, using baking soda inside smelly gloves can mask odors for a period. For consistent freshness, treat your gloves with care and invest in breathable materials, ensuring a pleasant skiing experience.
How Do You Care For Leather Gloves?
To maintain leather gloves effectively, it’s crucial to clean and care for them regularly. After exposure to water, wring out excess moisture gently and lay the gloves flat on a towel to air dry, avoiding direct sunlight or heat sources to prevent cracking or discoloration. Once dry, apply a leather conditioner to keep the leather soft. Leather gloves are primarily made from cattle skin, but options like pigskin, goatskin, sheepskin, and deerskin also exist, each varying in finish, weight, and quality. To prevent stains and reduce maintenance, consider using waterproof wax from the outset.
For cleaning, spot cleans can be performed with a damp cloth and mild soap. For deeper cleaning, use warm water with mild soap, rinse, and carefully squeeze out excess water without twisting the gloves. After every use, leather work gloves can be damp-wiped with a vinegar/water solution. Regular dust removal is essential; you can wipe the gloves with a soft cloth while wearing them. Storing gloves flat in a clean, dry place is recommended.
If gloves become wet, let them dry naturally at room temperature without applying any external heat. By following these steps, you can ensure your leather gloves stay well-maintained, soft, and stain-free for years.
Can You Wash GORE-TEX Gloves?
To wash your GORE-TEX gloves, submerge each glove separately in lukewarm water, using your hands to gently rub the outer surface until clean. Avoid machine washing, as it can damage the gloves; instead, hand wash using a small amount of liquid detergent, ensuring not to use bleach or fabric softeners. Once washed, if water no longer beads on the surface, reapply a durable water repellent (DWR) using a pump spray product. For leather gloves, utilize a water-based leather care product.
In this guide, you will learn the proper techniques for cleaning GORE-TEX gloves, both with and without leather parts, to maintain comfort and protection for your hands. After approximately 150 hours of use or when visibly dirty, it’s essential to wash these gloves for optimal performance. Gently squeeze the gloves from fingertips to wrist to eliminate excess water—do not twist them. Rinse thoroughly to remove all detergent residue, and make sure to air dry without direct heat sources.
Overall, the key steps are hand washing, rinsing, and reapplying DWR when necessary, ensuring your GORE-TEX gloves remain waterproof and functional over time. Proper care can significantly extend the life and effectiveness of your gear.
How Do You Clean A Horse Glove?
To properly clean your horse riding gloves, begin by using a dry cloth to wipe off any loose dirt or debris. This initial step simplifies the cleaning process. Prepare a mixture of mild soap or saddle soap with lukewarm water; then, dip a cloth or sponge into the solution. Gently lather your gloves, focusing on removing stubborn dirt. Remember to clean your gloves after each use to avoid dirt and sweat buildup. Avoid using fabric softeners, bleach, or harsh detergents.
For those following specific guidelines, check inside each uvex glove for hand and machine-washing instructions. Hand washing requires the same mild soap and lukewarm water and should be done with care. When washing, use a lint-free cloth and apply light pressure. If your gloves are particularly dirty, a mild soap can help. For cleaning leather gloves, you also need a leather cleaner and conditioner. Use a soft cloth to gently brush away dirt, then apply a small amount of leather conditioner, allowing it to sit for five minutes before rinsing.
After washing, let the gloves air-dry—never use a dryer or expose them to excessive water. For spot cleaning, a damp cloth with mild soap can work effectively. Always rinse thoroughly in cold water and wipe with a soft linen cloth to remove excess moisture. For additional care tips, including the use of a vinegar solution, consider exploring more online resources.
How To Clean The Inside Of Waterproof Gloves?
Gloves made of leather, with waterproof inserts or down insulation, must never be machine-washed. Instead, they should be spot cleaned delicately with a damp, light-colored cloth and allowed to air dry. To maintain their waterproof properties, it's advisable to periodically apply a waterproofing spray or wax. Regular cleaning helps remove debris; however, avoid using fabric softeners if the gloves feature a waterproof membrane. Interestingly, some tumble dryers could assist in maintaining the gloves, but the application of wax should be on dry or damp leather for immediate effectiveness.
When cleaning the interior of leather gloves, several methods can be employed: using soap and water, white vinegar, or baking soda. Just as with jackets and ski pants, gloves require cleaning, particularly if they are water-resistant which may necessitate re-proofing. Check the care label inside before washing. If feasible, invert the gloves for thorough cleaning and use a damp cloth with a 50:50 mixture of distilled vinegar and water for faux fur or shearling linings.
For waterproof synthetic ski gloves, spot clean with mild detergent or hand wash with gentle soap. A mixture of warm water and gear cleaner is also effective. Submerge the gloves in this mixture, rub them gently, and ensure no grit remains inside. For stains, use warm water with a small amount of liquid detergent. Hand washing is essential, and after cleaning, air drying is necessary to preserve the gloves’ integrity.
How Often Should Insulated Gloves Be Replaced?
Bill Shinn clarifies that OSHA does not mandate the annual replacement of voltage-rated gloves, but requires a visual inspection and air test before each daily first use, alongside an electrical test every six months, as outlined in OSHA regulation 1910. 137 and ASTM F496. For insulated gloves, it is crucial to ensure their insulation remains effective to prevent electric shocks, leading to frequent queries in electrical safety training. Misunderstandings about dielectric testing requirements and expiration dates are common.
NFPA 70E Article 130. 7(C)(7) can offer guidance in these matters. Insulated gloves should be replaced after prolonged use or signs of wear and poor insulation, as manufacturers recommend re-testing every six months. Rubber insulating gloves must be tested initially and subsequently every six months, according to OSHA's Table I-5. The lifespan of gloves is influenced by several factors including type, usage conditions, and maintenance. Proper care can extend the lifespan significantly, potentially up to six to eight years.
If gloves pass their six-month re-test, they may be used safely, indicating they do not have a specific expiration date if they adhere to periodic inspection requirements. Inspect gloves regularly and store them properly to ensure optimal performance and safety while working. Regular monitoring for wear and tear is vital to determine when a replacement is necessary. In conclusion, while insulated rubber gloves can last many months when maintained correctly, they should be replaced when their safety and insulation integrity come into question.
📹 The ONE Big Mistake That’s Making You Colder
Layering is an important part of anyone’s winter gear kit. But Layering is about more than just putting on more clothes to stay warm …
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in the Marines, we embrace a concept we affectionately refer to as being ‘comfortably cold.’ which, essentially means wearing one layer less than what would you probably describe as comfortable. especially once you start moving, especially under heavy loads, that extra layer may quite literally kill you – either from heat stroke while hiking or hypothermia once you stop.
I’m from Minnesota and went to college with a lot of international students from tropical locales. Local advice was always: 1. Layer, don’t suffocate 2. A scarf does more than you think it will 3. Drop your biggest dime on good boots and socks. Your chest will survive some cold and your hands can be stuffed in your pockets or armpits. Your footsies have no line of defense.
Having grown up in Michigan I always found the best way to keep warm and not be miserable was to simply self regulate the heat you end up building up. When I’d reach the point where I knew I would begin to sweat soon I’d simply open up my jacket, and honestly once you get that hot the freezing air actually feels quite nice.
A slightly different but related advice: If you have the luxury of choice, have a close look at the back of the backpack you buy. I have one that is so warm my back is drenched in no-time, even if the rest of me is “just right”. Some backpacks have meshing that (at least in theory) helps with that.
The one thing not mentioned in this article that I assume some would want to know is if you are sleeping overnight in sub freezing temps ALWAYS change your base layer at bed time. Wash your soiled base layer and repeat. The oils/sweat you rub in to the base layers will make you sleep cold. Clean dry base will make you sleep 1000x better in your bag.
The importance of the shell shocked me once. Almost twenty years ago I bought this wonderful cape and immediately treated it with Scotch Guard. Come winter, we finally had some bad weather so I threw my new/treated cape on over a sweater. It was nice. Imaging my surprise when I later found out I’d been happily tromping around with a wind chill of roughly -3*F!
Sweat management and intelligent layering is critical. I had this traumatically etched in my psyche. I hiked up a NH White and was fine with a thermal shirt and a windbreaker on my top half. Other layers were in my backpack. At the summit I wanted those layers quickly. Within the short time of digging out my layers, my core temp dropped to dangerous. I put my layers on with great difficulty, already shaking uncontrollably. I couldn’t get warm even with everything on. Another hiker lit a camp stove and threw sticks on it to get a small fire going (very illegal). That fire and that hiker saved my life. I never knew how fast hypothermia takes affect.
If you’re sweating you’re either overdressed or over working. We wore goretex with only a base layer, and just worked the zippers while we were moving. The problem with Goretex is that it still provides a cold condensing surface (CCS) for your sweat vapor, and it can become overwhelmed. We found that dressing very light with a little chill during movement was best. When you stop you put Big Puffy on right over the shell. This moves the CCS outward and allows that sweat to vaporize and move outward. It also conserves that heat you spent so many calories making. It works.
Pro Tip: In the spring, you can often find Gore-Tex jackets and pants in the clearance section of outdoor stores. I picked up a Gore-Tex jacket from Cabela’s that was normally $250 for $80 in the Spring on clearance. I also picked up a Gore-Tex pair of pants that was normally $200 for $60. Same with Gore-Tex gloves that were normally $80 for $25. Also if you ever have to wash them, make sure you run them in the dryer on high heat for 20 minutes to tighten up the fibers and make it waterproof again. I forgot to once and it didn’t seem to be waterproof until I realized my mistake and dried it for 20 minutes on high.
Aussie here. Decades ago I sailed regularly in the cold waters of Bass Strait near Antarctica. That water is cold, really cold. We had early dive suits that worked well enough if you’re in the water but for being on it while get regularly drenched with icey sea spray, hand spun wool was the best. The lanolin in it helps you shed water and even when wet it kept us warm. Only draw back is that it’s pretty heavy, especially when wet.
A tip I learned from some swiss cross country skiers on a recent trip is if you are doing something really strenuous (like cross country skiing) where you can’t avoid sweating, bring a change of base layer for any longer breaks or even for the second half of the day. As soon as we got into our lunch camp, they stripped off to change tops (Finland, -20 celcius). I thought they were crazy getting undressed in such weather but while I was shivering by the fire 20 mins into the lunchbreak, they were toasty warm.
After about a decade of ski touring, a few tips. -Aclima woolnet first layer, keeps you much drier and somehow not cold. No smell, but looks strange. -Adjust your midlayer for your activety layer and temperature, not the other layers. -A goretex onesie hardshell is significantly warmer than pants and jacket. -A down vest packs really small and cab be worn just on breaks, buy slightly big so you could wear it over your shell. You do not want to take off your shell on a windy mountain top. -Buy a shell with lots of zippers. I stick my arms out of the zip pits when going uphill, it keeps your torso out of the wind and cools you down. I dont have to take of my backpack or stop to do this. Hardshell pants need ventilation zippers too. On the coldest days in Norway i wear Aclima woolnet, thin grid fleece onesie, Montane Axis Alpha Down Jacket, Norrona down halfpants, Sweet Protection Crusader flightsuit. I lose the down layer only when i go uphill.
My system has been to only ever use waterproof shells when it’s raining or wet/heavy snow. I will sometimes put on a waterproof jacket if the wind chill is extreme to stop the cold air pulling heat to fast from my outer layer. All other times I use a windstopper soft shell, jacket and trousers. This with wool base layers is the most breathable systems and I rarely have to take layers on and off as a result.
I’ve been hiking in winter regularly and I completely agree with everything you said. I often see newcomer hikers starting a route with too many clothes on them and right at the first rest, they feel cold. Colder than me wearing just a baselayer and a cheap wind jacket. Thanks for the great content, sir!
This article is an incredible explanation of layers. As a scoutmaster who does back country training the only thing I think you need to add is about how tight or how loss the layers need to be. Far to often I see people with way to tight of layers and no matter how many they have on they are cold. Having air space between layers is very important.
Next to my skin…something like UnderArmour heat gear thin but moisture wicking then I’ll choose a merino wool base shirt that is well made with about 75-80% real merino. Always my fleece hoodie, then the outer shell. This is my formula for skiing, where you have short stops and short rides to the top. What I will employ since perusal this article is the use of the ventilating armpit flaps. I’ve got them on my Arc’teryx and Patagonia outer shells. Thx for the tip.
All excellent advice. Pit zips are awesome, but so few manufacturers are doing them now. I also love pants that have ventilated pockets with a zip so you can let some hot air out as you walk, or not. Also, do not wear your day hiking clothes in your down sleeping bag – change into totally dry base layer so you don’t get so much moisture in the down which prevents it working properly.
Can confirm. When I went to the top of my first mountain higher than 4000m above sea level, the guides told us “if you’re not shivering slightly before we start, you’re wearing too much insulation. A buddy and I were the only ones that listened and were tho only ones to not be completely freezing once we were resting on the summit.
I’ve been layering with wool in all layers, unless it’s actively snowing, since a long time ago. This includes wool pants. Advantages? 1. Wool is somewhat self temperature regulating. Something not mentioned in this article. 2. It retains more of its insulation properties when wet than any synthetic. 3. Important for hunting or wildlife photography- it can be deodorized by the sun. 4. For active snowing or deep snow, I wear a frog togg jacket and / or pants over the wool. Way cheaper than the outer shell mentioned in the article. And, frogg togs are breathable, but block wind almost as good as a windbreaker. Has always kept me dry. I was working in -17 weather with a -35 wind chill in North Dakota and the locals were surprised that I wasn’t freezing my arse off. They actually wrote down the list of what I was wearing. (I live in Colorado, sometimes work or hunt in the mountains in the winter, and grew up in Montana, so I do know what cold weather is) Things NOT mentioned in the article. A set of thin wool glove or mitten liners really help, as you are layering your hands too. You can wear wool gloves or mittens and buy a mitten shell to wear over them too. Or you can order real fur mittens from a couple places in Canada. LAYER YOUR HEAD and neck, especially in extreme cold. In temps below 10 degrees, it’s advisable to go from a regular ski mask or gaiter to a mask that warms the air as you breathe. You can feel cold with even the best clothing, if the air temperature is cooling your core from the inside.
I’ve been using long-fibre wool and wool blends for the better part of 40 years in all kinds of weather/all year. Never been cold even when I ended up in the water pulling someone to shore in late fall. Depending on the wool type and cleanliness, wool retains about 80-ish% if insulative properties even when dripping wet. Personally, I’ve tried Gortex and similar products over the years. There are many grades of these products and only the expensive ones work as advertised. I would not trust my life to only synthetics, although they have merit in certain situations. If you are concerned with the weight of a good quality wool sweater, work harder building muscle and endurance! Don’t be afraid of the weather – learn about it and embrace it. Greetings from a crusty old Albertan in wintery Canada.
Thanks for calling out synthetic base layers for smelling bad. I refuse to wear them. Even at home, doing nothing, my pits will smell terrible after just a few hours — despite using deodorant. Looking forward to your experience with different wool (and wool/synthetic) base layers. I’ve tried a couple brands and they were both terrible. Wool shrunk by 2 full sizes after laundering it per the instructions and air drying. My large turned into a shirt that my 7 year old daughter could comfortably wear.
Excellent article. As a graduate of the US Army’s Basic Military Mountaineer Course (Winter), everything you said is exactly in line with what they teach there. In fact, if they caught you wearing cotton in the field they would give you an SOR (serious observation report) on the spot. Staying dry is the trick to staying warm. The biggest rookie mistake is indeed wearing too many layers when moving.
Living my entire life in Ontario, Canada, I’ve never been an outdoorsman, but I love hiking when I do get out there. My experience always told me that sweat was the enemy, but never put the time into learning what to do about it. This was a fantastically informative article, and you delivered it terrifically. In 8 minutes you transformed the way I’m going to dress in winter for the rest of my life. Cheers!
Great explaination. Additionally i find that there are also many reasons people are cold that are not related to clothing. Some people are on a tight calorie deficit (either to a running diet or simply because they don’t eat extra for what they burn hiking in the cold). You need to eat enough for your body to produce heat. Another thing is that many people are used to being overly comfortable all the time. Conditioning the body to adapt to temperature changes (e.g. by taking a cold shower in the morning or going into a sauna regularly) will make you feel much warmer throughout the day.
One of the (often) unknown “layers” you can use to keep yourself warmer is a heat exchange mask. It heats the air before you breath it in by combining it with a warmer environment created by your expelled breath. It was first developed by the militaries of cold (Scandinavian) countries; then they were evolved by their cross country skiing athletes. Now they are also used by some high altitude mountaineers (those not using supplemental oxygen). My favorite is called the Air Trim, available at online cross country ski shops.
Great article. Living the outdoor lifestyle in northern Ontario for 6 years now, in my experience, comfort in the cold all comes down to managing sweat and moisture. Never get wet, stay warm. The moment one feels sweat, you gotta open up the layers and keep those base layers dry! Feeling cold, just do some squats. Stay dry & warm good people! 🤠
Been hunting and hiking in sub zero temps for decades and I can say fleece vest mid-layers over a nice polypropylene base layer is the best I’ve ever used. From there I chose more layers based on temps and activity. And yes, there is almost nothing more important than a true waterproof and wind blocking shell. Although, my most extreme system is polypro/windproof puffy vest/fleece jacket/goretex shell. The constant for me is the vest, over my base; it allows my armpits to breathe while keeping my torso and the back of my neck warm.
During my few decades of life i never heard this, when it was below -25 celcius outside and I went skiing I just wore cheap walmart winter coats, jeans, gloves and classic ski shoes. I always felt a bit cold so I would not sweat alot even when skiing as hard as I could. I would just embrace the cold and somehow the lack of comfort just made me feel good. Thanks for the advices it was interesting.
There is something to be said about keeping core warm versus peripherals. Also the role of headwear is critical as it provides an easily accessible thermostat! Also foot care and neck seals are worth managing properly too. Personally I have found antiperspirant on feet to be really helpful in managing foot temperature as it keeps feet dryer!
I am a firm proponent of wool over synthetic – not just because of the anti odor property, but because in my experience, the RIGHT wool for the job does just as well as as synthetics, and it remains insulative up to like 50% soaked. This means it’s MUCH more forgiving regarding sweat. Very fine merino wool can be made from wool strands as thin as silk, and can feel like silk, meaning you’ll feel more comfortable with it directly against your skin, meaning you’ll feel more comfortable wearing tighter-fitting base layers that remain in contact with your skin the whole time, wicking away sweat immediately. Coarser wool mid layers still wick moisture well enough considering how well they perform when damp or even wet, and can have a lot of loft, making them very insulative while still being breathable. This unfortunately means high winds can cut right through it, but that’s no different than any other mid layer.
Interesting! I have a North Face that has both a shell and an insulating layer that can zip in or out, and actually wear a mid layer that’s neither truly shell nor fleece (and definitely not insulation)—a self-described soft shell. I’m not a heavy sweater, but wearing these in combination with a smart wool or polyester shirt has kept me warm so far. One thing that has helped a TON as a glasses wearer is the use of ski goggles. Not only do they provide protection from sun reflection on nice days, they keep my glasses from falling off my face when going downhill.
Hardshell Made of Ventile or other dense cotton based material is my choice for the outer Layer . It is much more breathable than goretex, Its Windproof(most important) and water repellent(light to moderate Rain will NOT come through, tested it 100 of times)Merino and or a warm fleece unser it and ur Good to go
Great article. Man, I have hyperhydrosis, so I will sweat without being hot or moving. It’s the most frustrating thing living in a cold environment. I’ve really become fond of wool products for smell reduction and their ability to wick. Alpaca is really nice stuff. I usually wear a merino t-shirt as a base layer not super skin tight but good for me and then use an alpaca long sleeve sweater and its a good wicking combo. The wools insulate better when they are moist than synthetics and allows me not to freeze. Although it is still much colder being wet under my arms than if I were to be dry. I’m still playing with different clothing systems for my excessive sweating but the natural fibers seem to fit best for now. Thanks
It just makes sense! Even I knew before seeing this article! Your body is a natural heat-generator, and having too many layers with no air-circulating between you clothes and body would cause you to overheat. When we went skiing, we always packed extra sets of clothes to change into when the days was done, plus I learned a LOT from sixth-grade Survival classes and the Magic School bus for how we can conserve heat.
As a former seascoutleader here in sweden I can only agree on all you have stated, and now that I have been confined to a powerchair it have helped to keep me warm. There is no issue with getting to warm and sweaty for me, I bearly move at all these days, but the layering for sitting still in cold weather is basicly the same as when you go sailing in fall or wintertime…
thank you for this vid. I’m a middle aged mother in Germany. I recently took up “just walking the dog, but longer”, so I am out 2-3h a time in every weather. it’s cold but mostly dry right now. The terrain is hilly, I am in the valley but to get anywhere I have to go uphill. So much that I couldn’t get there without a break at first. I recently bought a whole new warderobe of outdoor clothes and I found out by accident, what makes me feel warm but not over-hot is a regular longsleeve (cotton mix – oh no XD ) and then my thin down jacket, followed by a Fjällraven shell. So it seems the shell is doing a really great job at breathing 🙂 Fascinating to find this vid now 🙂 I will surely check out more of your vids to learn more of the science behind this 🙂
If it’s going to be well below freezing, vapor barrier base layers eliminate the need to manage sweat and wetting out your layers from within while also being pretty windproof. No Goretex of giant put zips needed. You can still add or shed layers if you feel hot or cold, but you don’t need to do it to manage moisture. Your down is even safe from sweat and oils. Certainly changed my hiking in temps below 20 F. On the opposite end are fishnet base layers. Fishnet base layers won’t hold any (or very little) moisture on your skin allowing the moisture to pass into your out layers as they should. If it’s cold enough, most outside moisture will be in a solid form negating the need for waterproof. A water and wind resistant outer layer will help regulate better than anything Gore ever dreamed up and are a fraction of the price. Ironically, cotton canvas is a popular outer layer for extreme cold as it will block wind while letting moisture escape. Once your sweat reach the outside of the canvas, it freezes and can be easily brushed off. No good for anything above or near freezing though. A benefit to a cotton canvas outer layer is that they’re much more forgiving to embers from a camp fire.
OR….silk base layer with merino wool mid layer. Silk is THE BEST for moisture wicking. Merino wool is awesome. It insulates even when wet. If these two don’t keep you warm, add a light down jacket. Something that most people forget is to keep hydrated. It isn’t easy when the temps are down around 0 but it is essential for your body to regulate its own temperature. Alpaca is also an excellent mid layer but it can be a little fragile. I have an old sweater from Orvis that is 50% alpaca and 50% merino wool. I only wear that on the coldest days. If the temps will be above 25, it stays in the pack.
I agree with the cold start, if it’s not windy, I only wear my base layer during the walk. With wind, or slower movement like climbing, I’ll add a light-mid weight synthetic insulated hoody with a good balance between ventilation, insulation, and wind/snow protection. This will do me for most of the day when active/climbing/skiing. During breaks or when I get tired and cold later during the day, I’ll add a heavier insulated jacket on top. I tend to avoid hardshell jackets when possible, as I tend to get really cold/sweaty from their lack of ventilation. Instead, I find that my lightweight insulated jacket is far more breathable/quick drying than any hardshell, whilst being pretty wind and snow-resistant.
This is the best article on this topic I’ve ever seen. I hunt jn the cold a lot amd in alaska where you kive in rain gear. Sitka and Kuiu nake amazing stuff. All the rain gear has full leg and pit zips. Stone Glacier also makes pants that let you unzip and dump heat. 100% Goretex brand is the best. One thing i would add is the way to stay dry is the monent you feel a drop you out your rain gear on, not 5 minutes later.
“Be bold, start cold”. Great advice. I live in CO also and the sun plays a big part in temperature regulation. Snow and wind is cold but if the sun is out it really warms you. If it goes behind a cloud then it chills up incredibly fast.I used to run and the mantra for that was to dress for the middle of the race, regardless of the distance.
Thank you for the informative article. I’ve started to understand “layer theory” since having to do rail work out in various conditions, and it’s winter now. Like you said, several variables to consider and they always change. Wearing coveralls, it’s not practical to keep adjusting my layers, especially for sweat, but I’ve learned the value of keeping wind from blowing away any warm air from under my layers by using even a garbage bag and some impervious track pants over everything but under my coveralls. Once I get moving some, I feel toasty, even with blowing cold. I just need to figure out how to warm up fingers once they get cold, because they will stay that way if they lose their heat.
I’m not very “extreme” and I tend to run hot, but my go to method is this: Under armour base layer to pull sweat away from the skin and to keep the next layer from sticking to me. The next layer is a long sleeve t-shirt or a zip up fleece.(or both) depending on the weather and activity level. But the key is I want something that will insulate but a strong breeze will go right through. Then if it is really cold, I add a vest. It adds insulation without adding bulk. Also keeping my arms more free… Then a shell preferably with all the ventilation zips. My old helly Hanson jacket could be worn as a rain jacket in the summer if you opened the 9 ventilation zippers.
In the past I snowboarded and winter hiked quite a bit and this describes what I did. My favorite wool-poly shirt I would also desert hike in, at 110 F / 40+ C, and it was cool from wicking sweat. Varying fleece thickness helped make a 3 layer system work down to – 10 F. I wasn’t wearing goretex though ; well designed and less technical fabrics work well enough, but the side vent is critical.
I like your “be bold start cold” line. I learned long ago that when doing training runs through Michigan winter that the most comfortable runs are runs that I’m VERY uncomfortably cold the first 15 minutes of the run. And then mildly uncomfortably cold the next ten minutes because it takes about twenty minutes to get my body up to maximum temperature then another 5 to get acclimated to what exactly I’m feeling. If I dress in a way that is any warner than that at the beginning then I have no choice but to stop and shed clothing a half hour into my runs. And that’s just obnoxious because I then have to find a place to stash it requiring me to change the route I’m running to come back by on my way home to pick it up or drive back out post run to get it. More than a few runs ended early while I was figuring that out.
I’ve been hicking and camping in cold weather since I was a kiddo. It’s surprising how much of this I naturally learned over the years, and helpful to have a way to explain how I like to layer and why. I’ve always preferred a synthetic teeshirt under everything with a mid-layer that wicks and breathes well, and on top of that I either wear an artic waterproof insulator jacket but rarely do I zip it so that I get the airflow through the coat. If it’s really cold I wear a second midlayer and start to zip up. I usually don’t need more than that for most hikes but if it was really cold, like consistantly in the negatives. Then I start wearing more shells.
One other thing I’d love to see an overview on is how putting on too many layers in places like hands or feet (even pants sometimes) can be counter productive and make you cold instantly. Even before working a sweat I just had that experience in Longyearbyen, and I think it could prove a useful tip for newcomers 🙂
Two layers. A synthetic Polar-Tec type layer and my outer coat. That’s it. That’s all I’ve ever worn. I’ve trekked Patagonia, the PCT in winter, worked a season in Antarctica, and punched through the ice in the arctic circle when I was on a sub. I’ve never needed any more than that and I’ve spent days/weeks out there.
I backpacked along the northwest coast via kayak before I ever did much hiking, and handling the temperature while being mildly doused with water all day in frigid climates taught me so much, especially since I’m a very small female with little body fat. For me, it’s full synthetic and literally a partial layer made from animal pelts designed evolutionarily for those conditions. You need to accept that you will be wet unless you constantly wear a skirt and reliable shell layer, or you’ll freeze before you notice it.
Wear a thin runner’s cap under your regular hat. When you start moving, stow the regular hat. They make Gore-Tex running caps that work great. Same thing for your hands. (Wool glove liners under heavier outer mittens/Gore-Tex shell.) If you start to overheat, stow the hats… then the mittens and gloves. When you are hiking and you see some positive elevation change ahead, alter your system before you start climbing. (No Sweat) If you are warm when you set out, you have made a mistake. Cold start… stay dry… insulate when you stop moving.
The most difficult conditions is 0C (melting point). No matter what you do you will get wet either from sweat or the environment (or both). Therefore another important principle is “work wet, rest dry”. Keep a spare set of clothes specifically for resting. It sucks to put on your wet and cold socks in the morning but it beats not getting any sleep because all your clothes are wet.
As a former resident of the far north my preferred outdoor temperature to work and for extended periods of outdoor activity was -20 C. At -20 it isn’t cold enough to hinder movement or be to dangerous if you’re prepared for it and yet it is cold enough to keep you from working up a sweat in most situations or having snow melt and freeze on your garments in repeated cycles throughout your day. Much warmer than -20 you’ll usually eventually get soaking wet one way or the other if you’re exerting yourself or working in snow for hours on end and then you are in trouble unless you have shelter nearby.
Awesome article. I’m an advocate for the PCU style system promulgated by Mark Twight in “Extreme Alpinism” and adopted by the Military. Poly base (thinner is better), fleece as needed and then a windshell (Kor Preshell or Patagonia Houdini) when it’s dry and cold, and a soft shell when it’s snowing and cold. I have a goretex shell (Beta AR) but honestly it doesn’t breath well even with pit zips open, so I’d recommend most people use a soft shell over a hard unless it’s 33 and raining. Wool is great for sleep wear and winter static layering, but it simply holds on to too much moisture to be suitable for winter trips. A blend like the Capiliene Air (50/50) is as much wool as id want to bring on an overnight. Doesn’t stink fast either.
glad i watched this article…i was looking for a big fat winter coat….but i sweat a lot and they are a bit bulky…i like to be agile. after perusal this…i am going to skip the big winter coat, and get a decent shell and a nice fleece…. oh and now i will ensure the shell is just water and wind proof (gore tex) and not quilted as i dont expect i will need that now, plus its light and agile
Good article! Where I live we see many newcommers that have no idea how to layer and stay warm in the winter. I have to say though that I love wool and hate syntheic. Yes sythetics is suppoesedly breathing better but wool can keep you warm even when it is wet. That is huge benefit according to me. I usually have wool all the way out to the shell. Sometimes I have a sythetich mesh t-shirt closest to the body to creste pockets of air, and then my 200-260 wool baselayer shirt. I also have a “fluff” layer that looks like fake fur that goes right below the shell. The setup works in -30c no problem.
Wow a properly instructed article. I understood every minute of this. I never really knew befoe how to properly dress for different conditions in the cold till I watched this. You hit all the important talking points. In the marines they never really taught us how to properly prepare ourselves like this even though most of our time in the field was in the cold. Then again I never went to Bridgeport but it shouldn’t take that to teach us how to avoid hypothermia like some of my peers did. This should be a gold standard article for the military.
The little-known key to cold-weather comfort is the technical mesh base-layer. This is a Norwegian technique on offer from companies like Brynje. You cap the mesh with a fast wicking top. The mesh traps pockets of warm air and helps the capping layer keep the chilling impact of moisture off your skin. It also allows quick venting when you overheat. This is a technique with a long heritage – it is extensively used by Arctic travellers and Nordic mountain troops, and was worn by Tensing and Hillary on their first ascent of Everest. In my personal experience it is all upside with no downside – in cold weather it’s unambiguously the best way to go.
What almost nobody talks about: Make YOURSELF cold proof. In the winter, basically the time below or around 0°C, I go for a run once a week, wearing nothing but my shoes and swim trunks. On all other days I take cold showers. Besides countless health benefits, making a mistake in your clothing will have a much smaller effect on you, because your body is physically trained to adapt.
Over the years I tend to more and more include a vest made of wool as the middle layer on top a very thin fleece jacket and then a GoreTex like jacket as outer shell (of course I use a wool inner layer when it is cold. Synthetic when it is warmer). That keeps the torso warm without excessive sweating and it reduces the “bulkiness” of the arms ( especially important when XC-skiing). I am also a big fan of using some sort of windbreaking underwear to protect my private parts. This is especially important during winter and/or in strong cold winds. Greetings from a Swedish outdoor fan that has been skiing, hiking and fishing in the Scandinavian mountains for more than 50 years.
Thank you for this article! I’m not new to hiking, but am new to a lot of the science and best practices for long distance hiking. This was extremely helpful as I haven’t really understood the method of layering (mostly because I just haven’t googled it lol), but this was so helpful. Question: I lost a lot of weight and have a large amount of excess skin. This is a challenge because I have a lot of skin rolls which causes a lot of sweat as well as loose skin moves a lot. Is there a base layer you can recommend that will help with some compression as well as keeps the moisture wicking up? I overheat very quickly but need something that hugs my upper body.
I went for hiking years in Switzerland. I screwed up everything that you mentioned here. I had cotton t-shirts on, my shel was a Nortface 550 Nuptse that kept all the heat in, so I was drenched at the and of the hike. I also was to sweaty to open the jacket, so I was kind of overheating while hiking in the snow. Crazy that you can screw up so bad a hike if you don’t have any experience. However the experience was great. Challenging, but great!
Thank you so much for the informations. I started cycling to work this month and still trying to figure out which clothes to wear in the cold. Most important thing i learned from my colleagues is that everything should be windproof. With my first set up i was drenched in sweat (riding in the afternoon) but only notized when changing at work and i was warm during the ride so still good? At the way back at night was definitly less sweaty, but don’t know what to ditch for daytime. Was just wearing base layer, shirt and winterjacket. Maybe the base layer is to warm for the temperature at the moment, but this week i have to cycle only at night and it is getting colder so i will see how that goes.
Good to learn about pit zips. I’ve had a bit of an indoor life for.. honestly a couple of decades. In the late 80s, coats had double zips so you could at least get some cool on your abdomen while keeping your chest warm. This worked so well for me that I tried to keep these coats good for as long as possible! Since then, the coats I’ve found have had nothing to help me regulate! I’ll have to look around a bit more. Pit zips make me realize why ponchos are the way they are. All that climbing in the Andes… 🙂 In Europe, medieval cloaks weren’t bad either, they fastened at the neck and you could easily let some air in below if you wanted it. And, both ponchos and cloaks are quick to put on and take off. They could even go over your pack if you wanted. I wish I could make use of them on my bike! 🙂 Maybe there’s a way. Besides all that, I’ve recently found that when my head is even the tiniest bit too warm, my brain will tell my body to turn down the heat. I’ve had problems with cold all my life, but I’m doing a bit better now I reduce the insulation on my head when other parts of me start to feel cold.
I am a runner. I run in minimal layers. When I stop and just put more layers on without taking my sweaty top off, I get even colder. My trick is to quickly change the sweaty top. (That’s for after the running, if I have to still be outside and if I don’t have a quick access to the shower.) You are so right about the sweat.
My 5 and 3 year old just done their first big hike in 2c over extremely difficult terrain (muddy, big wet stones, up and down small mountains) and they smashed it. We sat for a picnic on a strip of rock with a waterfall up and downstream by a hundred metres or so. That was probably 3 miles. Sounds easy, but at 3 years old in that terrain…. man. Super proud of my kids. Great article and informative. I tend to hike cold and warm up as I go.
A polypropylene mesh as a base (i use the old school Brynje), midlayers of polartec alpha, add layers of polartec alpha when colder, outer a jacket with a small layer of insulation and a 4 way stretch dermizax outer, windproof and water repellent, Most importantly Long pit zips and pref upper under arm zips. took me a decade but this works, even for resort skiing which is about the most difficult to get right
not snow hiking- just regular “going outside in winter” (in europe) and kinda thought of this idea of “better start chilly” years ago because I heat up and sweat easily while walking, cycling, etc. and people have been calling me crazy for “just” wearing a windbreaker or rain jacket most of the time, but HA this confirms that it was, in fact, a good idea (and you provided lots more info so thanks haha)
food bike courier here in canada for many years (and winters) if u r going to be active, dress a lil colder, u will warm up … 100% be windproof on outer layer take a look at the temperature u r going out into, try to develop a system with temperature blocks around 0 C 2 layers, around -5 C, 3 layers, -10 C 4 layers etc, dont forget to account for humidity as well, it will make it feel a little bit warmer
Good stuff here. I can attest to the truth of it, as a winter bicyclist commuter who did so in Minneapolis for 13 years, through some super cold early morning rides to work (3 AM), and heavy snow, as cold as -30 F. I pretty much learned all these things you went over in the first 2-3 winter riding seasons through trial and error, and actually bought from Moose Jaw great winter shell layer that accompanied me for years until the zipper finally broke. A Canadian brand, forget the name. Replaced with with a Gore-tex shell, with big pit zips being one of the main features I was looking for. The previous shell didn’t have them and I regretted that decision. When people would ask me about the experience, or talk about wanting to start winter bike riding, I always told them my layering plan, as well as the importance of starting your ride cold, since within five-ten minutes you will warm up, and being too warm from over-layering makes the ride miserable, and distracts you from the all the road hazards of ice, potholes, etc.
Wool is #1 for me. If I could afford it, all layers would be wool, just different weaves and weights. The only short-coming of wool is durability. For the shell a fine wool-nylon blend would bring increased durability. He doesn’t mention that another superior property of wool is that is retains @80% of its thermal capability when wet, whereas synthetics only about 20-40%. And yes, wool dries very quickly.
Having worked for the BSA at a High Adventure camp for a decade, been in the Army and been a reenactor for decades…the best things for cold weather are older. Unbleached linen shirt and long johns, a mid layer of 100% virgin wool (with lanolin) and the outer layer one of the gigantic wool army greatcoats (like a soviet Shinel) Most comfortable I have ever been, despite hunting in -30f° for a week.
Step 1. Base layers. Step two pants. Step three shell upper. When stopped add insulation. Tips Carry spare socks. I went snowshoeing with a 30lb load and I was hot af with just bases and shells. I don’t mean hot enough that I was sweating. But I built my heat from within my jacket and pants. But I’m also snowshoeing, so I’m experiencing some cardio which is why I keep my insulation layer off until I get back from my 2 mile loop
I don’t hike, but I use the same guidelines if I will be outside for any extended amount of time. I wear a medium weight wool base layer and typically 3-4 layers total on top. And always synthetic, since they dry faster. Cotton is great in the summer, but it absolutely sucks in winter. Plus wool insulates even when wet. And gore tex rain shell with lots of vent options. I wear an Outdoor Research Foray jacket. Expensive, but it performs well.
Fellow Norwegian here… And grew up with winters of -20°C to -37°C at the worst. We use wool, all the way, and usually layers of 3. Inner, that is wool garments, but like really thin. Middle, wool sweather, and pants that might be made of wool, or just warm. Outer, winter pants that is insulating, and a wind resistant jacket that is also insulated. Synthetic garments usually doesn’t do the job in those kinds of cold.. And wool also keeps warm even if you get wet, deppending if you are able to stay warm bodywise. It is also important to have air between the garments, and enough space. If the clothes become too tight, you usually end up freezing. I for example always buy a size or 2 too big shoes, just so I will have enough space for wool socks. And also for it to not be too tight.
It certainly checks out that keeping sweat off your body would keep you warmer. Sweat is expelled specifically to regulate body temperature by cooling you down. Obviously you want enough exposure to your sweat to not overheat, but you certainly don’t want to keep that sweat around when you’re cool enough to be comfortable. Excellent points made, I don’t hike but this article will at least help me to be smarter about how I layer even in my everyday life since I’m walking around all day at work.
I’m working outdoors since 2005 and for this reason i programmed my own app which calculates a “feels like temperature” with data like temperature, wind speed, humidity, my own body temperature and sun radiation. I have specific “trigger temperatures” where I get rid of or put on a layer of clothe. These temperatures are set in a way I don’t sweat when being in motion (per bicycle and by feet) 🙂
I had pentagonia long Johns and long sleeve shirt on hand so I wore only those two item to go out and shovel my driveway clear of snow. There was just no temperature and it was coming down when I was out there. I swear a lot normally and I did so again however I felt surprisingly perfectly comfortable with the pentagonia items I had and had on. I got a lot of sweat but it was well taken care of and I was never feeling cold in the middle of a snowstorm. That kind of made me a fan of pentagonia without my knowing anymore than I’m telling you here.
I worked outside in Vancouver for twenty years doing treework. The winning combo for me was a wicking poly layer next-to-skin, with a thick 100% wool sweater. When I stopped for lunch or after work, I’d take off the sweater and put on a thick goose down jacket. l really wanted merino to work as a base layer, because it doesn’t hold perspiration smell, but it just never wicked enough moisture away. Most days, even with a steady rain, if l was working hard, it was better to just work in those two layers, and let the sweater soak up the water. A rain jacket just got clammy, no matter how much it said moisture could be released. It just couldn’t let out enough moisture.
It’s also, as you alluded to with the hill, about activity level. If you are going to be exerting more effort and producing more heat/sweat then you should regulate that by removing layers. You can regulate temperature with a good baselayer (long sleeve, wicking shirt of various thicknesses depending on the weather), a vest, and a thinner jacket. I don’t live in the north so if we get cold we’re talking in the 40’s (F). There is no need for a coat for those temperatures just layer accordingly while adding and removing depending on your activity level.
I’m a trucker on the lookout for most lightweight versatile clothing since I deal with -22f with 40mph winds to 125f. Anyways outside of the most extreme temps for weather I will explain how I weather for the coldest there is. I’m from a temperate weather area and a bit sweaty all the time. I will start with head to toes on layers. Head boiled wool beanie DO NOT USE FLEECE. (An regular Carhart beanie normally works fine though) Neck I use a buff since it’s breathable and lightweight to not straggle myself and still cover up everything below the eyes and allows my breathing to not be too cold Torso base layer wear a athletic fast drying shirt from a brand such as Patagonia or The North Face it should be a running shirt. Then ontop wear a regular base layer long sleeve ideally with thumb holes but not 100% needed (most brands, styles, materials will do) I prefer a merino wool blended base layer due to it pulls off sweat really fast and removes it and also it doesn’t feel dirty for much longer time. Then after you get a mid layer ok this will be controversial but DO NOT WEAR FLEECE ( it’s bulky weighs alot, does not breath, when wet your screwed since it absorbs it and holds on to it until you can dry it out not wind or water resistant. Wear a wool sweater (ideally Shetland wool) or a Patagonia Nano Puff (or similar) mid weight jacket this should be making you warm but with the wool it’s gonna keep you very warm but don’t sweat too much onto this wool sweater. Now then I bring up the Patagonia nano puff which the micro nano puff would be acceptable as well.
I had a job where I would work outside sometimes in Minnesota in the dead of winter and I would dress in about three layers polypropylene tshirt, a fleece shirt or sweatshirt and then an insulated hoodie. I would stay comfortable on that in all but the most bitter temperatures. The layers trapped the heat but I didn’t get overheated
Great article. I only wear Paramo gear which doesn’t gather condensation like GoreTex now but “moves it away from your body” and feel totally dry and warm or cool and dry whatever the conditions just by adjusting the layer or the ventilation. I even put it on after a wild swim and I’m dry by the time I’m hiking again. Goodbye GoreTex for ever plus if I rip the Paramo I can stitch it myself and crack on or send it back and they’ll repair it 😊
When I snowboarded living in the mainland I wore an EMS (Eastern Mountain Sports) Gore-Tex ski jacket, pullover Patagonia fleece, light to mid-weight base layer. I liked wearing bibs so I didn’t get snow up my back and would wear mid-weight base layer under my bib. My jacket had pit zips and a snow skirt that I rarely used. It was a nice jacket because the only place it said Gore-Tex was on an inside tag, and had a windchill chart.
As a person allergic to synthetic fibers (causing excess sweating) i can tell you from my experience a light wool shirt under a synthetic light jacket then a hoody made of cotton then a outer shell or snowboarding jacket youll be nice and comfy i do a cotton under shirt long sleeve under my wool shirt or sweater and im comfy all day. No itching no needless sweating cause i can just open my shell and still have 3 or 4 layers. Stay away from fleece unless you like being shocked vut even fleece causes me to sweat so i stick to natural fibers at skin lvl then get thicker.
i always noticed while skiing as a kid just how HOT and sweaty you would get while active even when its freezing or below; to the point where i was just wearing my base layer and a wind-proof jacket at the top of the mountain in 20 degree weather. i remember lying in the snow and skiing faster just to stay cool.
Having summited MT Washington on Feb 3rd,2001, the one rule I have is no cotton. Hike all kinds of weather beforehand at different speeds and clothing choices to learn how to hike without sweating too much. Sweating on MT Wash will be very bad as conditions change in a matter of seconds and 100 ft down the trail. Polypropylene and fleece and a good hard shell.
When I was living in Fairbanks Alaska, my go to was a Rock Pillars parka, and a plain t-shirt. That was good for me to -40. Colder than that and I’d throw a fleece layer under the parka. Fleece was what I generally wore for pants, and just a single layer. I overheat like CRAZY if I wear too much, especially on my legs. But below -40 I had a set of THICK wool pants (And I mean thick. About half an inch thick) I’d pair up with my Sorel Glacier stompers. Notable for extreme cold layering: Your shell >>WILL<< freeze. Below a certain temp, water simply cannot be liquid in the air, and it will freeze and clog up your "breathable" shell. This is one reason why I'll switch to a good thick wool sweater if it isn't too windy. But if there's wind, then oversized vents are the way to go. Good vid!