The process of beekeeping involves the presence of drone brood, which refers to the eggs, larvae, and pupae of honeybees. Female mites enter a brood cell 1 to 2 days before it is capped, and about 60 hours later, they start to lay their eggs at a rate of one egg every 24 to 30 hours. The mite eggs take anywhere from 3-9 days to mature, depending on their sex. In contrast, worker brood remains capped for about 12 days.
Using frames with foundation “should” reduce the amount of drone brood because the foundation is already imprinted with cells sized too small for drones. In practice, drone trapping can be done by freezing the frame on a regular basis. To perform drone brood removal, a frame of drone brood foundation is needed, either a super frame to which the bees add drone cells under the bottom bar or a comb.
Removing drone brood can slow mite population growth in a bee colony by about 50 when performed correctly. However, its use alone will not significantly impact mite population growth. Putting a frame or two of dedicated drone foundation in your hive can cut down on burr comb and varroa mites.
In beekeeping, bee brood refers to the eggs, larvae, and pupae of honeybees. In man-made, removable frame hives, each frame mainly occupied by brood is called a brood frame. Using frames with foundation “should” reduce the amount of drone brood because the foundation is already imprinted with cells sized too small for drones.
One empty frame without foundation should be placed at spot number 2 or 9 in a 10 frame box. When fully capped, cut it out to reduce Varroa. Drone larvae can be cut or ripped out and put back into the hive.
Another way to handle drone brood is to move it up, as some have mentioned. It takes only about 15 seconds per colony to open the lid, remove the comb, cut out the drone comb with a hive tool, replace the frame, and close the lid.
Article | Description | Site |
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Reason for alot of drone brood in frames? – Beekeeping | Using frames with foundation ‘should’ reduce the amount of drone brood you get, because the foundation is already imprinted with cells sized too … | forum.honeyflow.com |
drone frames…. success!! : r/Beekeeping | Common practice here in Europe. One empty frame without foundation put at spot nr 2 or 9 in a 10 frame box. When fully capped cut it out to reduce Varroa. | reddit.com |
Should I add drone frame?? | If you allow the drones to rot in the frames, the bees will clean the frame out but may never use it again. … Do not forget to remove them on a … | beesource.com |
📹 Beekeeping Do Male Drone Honey Bees Emerge On Their Own?
Beekeeping always keeps us learning. True or False? Does the male drone chew his way out of his cell when he emerges or do …
How Much Drone Brood Is Normal?
In a typical hive, about 10% of the brood consists of drone brood, which is essential for reproduction. Drones require larger cells for development, necessitating the construction of special cells with a larger diameter than worker cells. During summer, having around 10 drone brood is common; if drone brood is removed, the bees will produce more. Conversely, if drone brood from another hive is introduced, bees will adjust the amount to their preference. Healthy levels of drone brood are within 5-15%.
In inspections, finding significant drone brood, particularly at the bottom of frames, is not unusual, especially if the bees have drawn out the comb to accommodate this brood. Hives that utilize natural comb often create about 20% of their comb as drone comb, and removal typically results in bees replacing it with new drone comb. It is vital to note that every hive is likely infested with mites, thus requiring treatment regardless of visible infestation.
Maintaining approximately 20% dedicated drone areas aids in reducing unwanted drone cell construction. If foundation sheets for worker bees are used, there may not be enough drone cells. Healthy hives usually have about 15% drone population at certain times of the year, especially if given the opportunity to construct their own drone comb.
Research shows that drone brood attracts significantly more mites than worker brood, making its management critical. Generally, 10-15% of the hive's comb is drone, located mainly at the periphery, indicating a healthy, successfully thriving colony.
How Many Drones Should Be In A Hive?
From early spring to late fall, a healthy bee hive typically consists of around 10% drones, which are male bees. Though it's normal to see fewer drones during the day, as they often leave the hive to gather in "drone congregation areas" for mating purposes, their presence is crucial for reproduction and maintaining hive temperature. A honeybee hive can have between 10, 000 to 60, 000 bees, but only a few hundred of these are drones.
The production of drones occurs seasonally, peaking in spring and summer, while declining as fall approaches. Drones live for approximately 30-55 days, and during their short lives, they frequently venture out to mate with virgin queens during their nuptial flights.
The queen bee is the sole female in the hive responsible for laying eggs, with peak egg-laying occurring around May-June. An imbalance in drone production may indicate an insolvent queen or preparation for swarming. Worker bees, which make up over 90% of the hive population, support the drones, as they do not gather food independently. An optimal drone population is around 10-15%, and beekeepers can manage this through drone traps and careful monitoring.
Drones play a critical role in genetic diversity within the hive, ensuring a healthy bee population. During prime seasons, drones are essential for reproductive success, demonstrating their significant but specialized function within the hive ecosystem.
When To Remove Drone Frame?
In beekeeping, managing drone brood is crucial for controlling Varroa mite populations. To effectively utilize drone trapping, insert a drone brood frame beside the brood nest in positions 2 or 3 of the brood chamber. The drone brood frame should be left in place for 24-28 days, allowing time for the queens to lay eggs, and drone brood to develop and cap over. It's essential to check the frames regularly, as drone brood should be removed just before emergence to prevent a mite infestation from developing, commonly referred to as a "mite bomb."
Female Varroa mites enter drone cells before they are capped, starting to lay eggs approximately 60 hours later. The eggs mature in 3-9 days, and drone brood remains capped for around 24 days from egg to emergence. For optimal mite management, remove and freeze the drone brood frame once it contains capped drone cells to eliminate a significant portion of Varroa mites.
Regular removal of drone brood frames is most beneficial during spring and early summer; during this time, the mite populations per drone frame increase. In April and May, after 2-3 weeks of waiting, the frames should be checked and removed promptly. In mid to late summer, you can either remove the frames or reposition them to the outer areas of the hive due to decreased drone production.
Overall, maintaining a consistent schedule for inserting and removing drone frames is a straightforward yet effective method for mite control in bee colonies. It generally takes only about 15 seconds per colony to manage these frames, making it an efficient practice for beekeepers looking to support their colonies and minimize mite pressure.
What If My Hive Has Only Drone Brood?
When inspecting your hive, discovering only drone brood indicates a significant issue. Drones contribute nothing to hive maintenance and honey production; hence, the absence of worker bees will rapidly weaken the colony. This situation could arise due to either a drone-laying queen or laying workers, both of which necessitate the beekeeper's intervention for the colony's survival. Regular hive inspections are crucial for detecting such problems. If you observe primarily drone cells with minimal worker brood, it may suggest that the colony has undergone a period without a queen, leading to a worker taking charge and laying drone eggs.
To address this, consider relocating the hive, inspecting for queen cells, and removing some drone brood frames to restore balance. Although a hive can have some drone brood, an excessive amount with a lack of worker bees is perilous. Replacing the queen might help, but if laying workers exist, this becomes challenging. In another instance, a hive revealed heavy drone brood presence and several queen cups; this can signal underlying issues with the queen's mating status.
Typically, a healthy colony maintains around 15% drones, exchanging drone frames for others containing eggs or young larvae helps manage the drone population. In case of predominant drone brood post-split, laying workers might be present, leading to the death of any introduced queen. Strategies may include combining the struggling hive with a stronger one, reducing hive size for better management, or utilizing a screened shim technique. With carefully monitored inspections and timely interventions, beekeepers can mitigate these issues and ensure the hive's health.
Why Are Drones Absent In The Mature Bee Colony?
Drones, the male bees of a honey bee colony, serve one primary purpose: mating with a virgin queen bee. They emerge from unfertilized eggs laid by the queen and possess no stinger, nor do they have the ability to gather nectar or pollen because they lack pollen baskets and have a less developed proboscis. Once they mate with a queen, drones either die or get expelled from the colony, especially in late summer as preparations for winter begin. Worker bees typically evict healthy drones to conserve resources, which leads to their absence in mature colonies when the weather turns cold.
Drones are often mischaracterized as lazy, but they essentially have minimal responsibilities within the hive, spending much of their time sleeping or waiting for the opportunity to mate. They can consume honey brought by worker bees or siphon it from open cells. Despite the perception of drones as parasitic members of the hive, they play a vital role in ensuring the colony's reproductive success.
The dynamics of drone populations are influenced by environmental conditions and the queen's health. Drones are seen as an indicator of the colony's overall vitality; if they are present during unfavorable seasons, it may signal underlying issues with the queen. The colony's structure typically favors the production of fewer drones during specific times to optimize resources. Despite their limited functions, drones do contribute somewhat to the colony’s thermoregulation under stress, easing the impacts of low temperatures.
In summary, honey bee drones exist solely to mate with queens, and while their contributions are often misunderstood, they are essential for colony reproduction and health.
Why Are Drone Bees Kicked Out Of The Hive?
In late autumn, worker bees expel drones from the hive to conserve resources needed for the survival of the bee colony. Drones, the male bees whose primary role is to mate with a queen, are unable to contribute to the hive's needs during the cold months. When conditions become unfavorable and food supplies dwindle, worker bees evict the drones, as their mere presence would deplete essential resources.
Without queens to mate with, the worker bees cease rearing drones altogether, leading to the ejection of any remaining adult drones from the hive. The process is brutal; the worker bees weaken drones by starvation before escorting them to the entrance and literally throwing them out.
Drones are identifiable by their larger eyes and shorter, rounded abdomens, being larger than worker bees but smaller than queens. In a typical colony, the ratio of worker bees vastly outnumbers drones, with about 95 workers to one queen and roughly a thousand drones. As autumn approaches and the hive prepares for winter, the presence of drones becomes a burden; once their mating function is fulfilled, they are kicked out. Those left behind often die from exposure as they cannot fend for themselves, and it’s common to find dead drones outside the hive in colder months.
Moreover, drones also have specific behaviors, such as forming congregation areas where they wait to mate with virgin queens. However, if resources run low, worker bees may block or expel them entirely, as evidenced in colonies with limited food supply. For a hive to thrive, it needs to allocate its resources wisely, prioritizing the sustenance of the worker bees and the queen. As a strategy, during times of food shortage or when pollen intake decreases, all drones are usually expelled, highlighting a natural survival tactic that ensures the hive's endurance through winter.
Their expulsion may seem cruel, but it is a necessary act for the colony's survival as it transitions into the harsher seasons. Thus, worker bees play a critical role in managing resources and maintaining the colony's health.
What Is The Lifespan Of A Drone Bee?
Drones, the male bees of a colony, have a relatively short lifespan of 30 to 55 days, maturing around 16 days of age and becoming less suitable for mating after 28 days. They primarily live during the spring and summer months. Drones have the singular purpose of mating with a queen; once they successfully mate, they die shortly afterward. Their lifespan varies depending on seasonal conditions and the strength of the colony, as robust colonies tend to rear and maintain more drone brood compared to weaker ones.
In a typical Apis cerana colony during peak summer, there can be around 200 drones, who rely on worker bees for sustenance. Following their emergence, drones must build strength by consuming honey and bee bread before they can engage in mating flight. Average flight time for a drone is about 20 minutes, which is crucial for keeping up with the queen during mating flights.
The lifespan of honey bees varies significantly between the different castes. Worker bees usually live for six to seven weeks in warmer months and up to six months during colder seasons, while queen bees can live for 2 to 5 years due to their specialized diet and protected living conditions in the hive. Worker bees maintain the colony's function, and their shorter lifespan contrasts sharply with that of the drone.
Different studies report variations in drone lifespans; for example, some research by Winston indicates an average lifespan of around 21–32 days in spring and mid-summer. The maximum lifespan recorded for drones is typically around 60 days. Ultimately, drones play an essential role in the reproductive health of honey bee colonies, despite their brief lives. Understanding their lifespan is vital for hive health and continuity, highlighting the importance of each bee's role within the complex social structure of the colony.
What To Do With A Drone Laying Hive?
To address a hive with a drone-laying queen (DLQ), start by removing the drone layer worker(s). Introduce a frame with eggs to reduce the queen's laying instinct, leading to the creation of queen cells in a few days. Acquire two frames of mixed brood along with adhering bees from a thriving hive and place them in the center of the problematic hive. Insert a queen cage between these frames for candy release, then refrain from inspecting the hive for at least 10 days.
A drone-laying queen functions similarly to a normal queen but lays only unfertilized eggs, resulting in drones that do not fit into worker comb. If you identify a queenless condition, a worker may assume laying duties, producing the drone brood. To remedy this, relocate the hive; a drone-laying queen will be present and needs to be removed. This queen is a standard size but only lays drone eggs, while worker bees may also lay eggs, resulting in a higher population of laying workers.
For effective management, shake the bees out in front of the weak hive and avoid giving them drone frames. Operations might change depending on the season. If the hive's situation is identified early and it contains many bees, consider uniting it with a stronger colony rather than purchasing a new queen. Discard frames with drone brood and replace them with brood frames from a vigorous hive. If a DLQ is established, pinching her and introducing a new, fertile queen is advantageous.
Conversely, handling laying workers is challenging; they must be shaken out at a distance of approximately 200 yards from the original hive. Lastly, providing eggs and capped brood from another hive can facilitate recovery in a struggling colony.
Why Do I Have So Many Drone Bees In My Hive?
A hive with a high number of drones often signals the presence of laying workers or issues with the queen. When a queen resumes laying after a break, she might initially lay a few double eggs, but this behavior doesn't persist. In contrast, laying workers can fill cells with three or four eggs, leading to a dramatic increase in drone production. Drones, while sometimes beneficial for mating, can also exacerbate mite infestations, as they provide ample opportunity for mites to breed in the drone brood.
Beekeepers must monitor the total number of bars in their hives and how many are populated with bees to assess hive strength, which can range considerably. An infestation of beetles may occur beneath dense drone populations, as they sneak in to lay their eggs. While drones constitute a natural part of the hive's ecosystem—occupying around 10 to 15% of the population—an excess may suggest underlying issues with the queen or ineffective hive management practices, like using foundationless frames.
The presence of many drone cells often corresponds with seasonal changes, swarm preparations, or queen replacement. Observing a spike in drone activity can indicate swarming behaviors or healthy hive conditions, particularly in the spring when food sources are plentiful. Drones play a critical role in maintaining genetic diversity within the bee population, which is essential for hive resilience. Therefore, increased drone production isn't inherently negative; rather, it can reflect hive vitality or impending reproductive actions.
Should You Remove Drone Brood?
The timely removal of drone brood is crucial for managing Varroa mite populations in bee colonies. If drone brood is not removed before hatching, the mite population can increase significantly. Upon inspection, drone brood was found at the bottom of frames, along with capped honey and some worker brood, while the queen is laying in the upper box. This discovery prompted a plan to remove the drone brood immediately, also considering an alcohol wash to manage mite levels.
After evicting the drones, a surge in phoretic mites typically occurs, endangering winter bees. Varroa mites tend to enter brood cells shortly before capping and lay eggs that mature in a few days. While worker brood is capped for around 12 days, drone brood remains capped longer. Beekeepers can use an uncapping fork to extract drone larvae, making it easier to spot Varroa on them. Removing early-capped drone brood can significantly reduce viable mites.
This method, known as drone brood removal (DBR), not only helps in mite control but also ensures the health of the bee population by preventing excessive elimination of drone bees, which are necessary for mating and maintaining genetic diversity. However, early removal of drone brood can negatively affect the male population available for reproduction, thus hindering the selection of stronger bee traits. Proper management techniques, including scraping or freezing drone brood, can aid in colony health and mite management.
📹 Varroa Mite Management – Drone Frames
This is how I used a drone frame to try to trap mites in drone cells. The special green drone frame makes the workers draw out …
I know this is a bit of a weird comment, but I want you to know your articles have positive impact even beyond the beekeeping community! I’ve been stuck in cancer treatment for most of this year and I discovered that perusal bee articles has a great calming affect on both my OCD impulses and general boredom in hospital. Your articles are so beautifully edited that you’ve become my favourite YouTube beekeeper! Thank you for putting all the hard work you do into posting these articles.
Clever to use a drone frame to test. If I test and find mites I’ll freeze, then treat the hive. If I don’t find mites I’ll put it back to hatch. I saw a presentation about breeding and the usefulness of drones. Since I’m starting to use hygienic queens, the drones carry the genetic makeup of the breeding stock.
There is a shotgun pattern of missing brood, both in the side with a lot of emerged brood, and the second side, without. It’s entirely possible those bees are yanking infected brood out & dismembering them before they hatch. This is exactly the behavior you’d expect from Varroa-sensitive bees. It’s entirely possible your Italian hive is merely removing the Varroa while they’re still in the cells. While the Italian hive doesn’t necessarily contain those genetics as explicitly as the VSH queen you sourced, it’s not exactly as simple as all that: There are multiple VSH markers, and having more or less of them makes the bees more and less vigilant in removing defective brood. It’s possible, in fact, to breed in too many of those markers, and the bees become so vigilant they start to exhibit compulsive OCD behavior and yanking perfectly healthy brood. Those hives don’t last long. Point is your Italian hive may very well be exhibiting precisely the sort of Varroa-resistance you’d want to see, in that shotgun pattern (imgur.com/Inb7RSx ).
The only real loss by using this frame as you use it is the time the Queen is on the frame. Your new frame has lots of advantages, the first of which is less drones on it so less time for the Queen to spend. I’m a little surprised at my own lack of reaction to using the drones this way. I feel sorry for drones lol. Its a woman’s world and they only have one useful function in it. Until now. Maybe they will evolve another useful function. Excellent article, as always.
I’m looking to try a new Varroa Mite treatment. Did the strips last fall. But lost a hive to the buggers. I recall in one of your articles you used a Vaporizer, But I do not recall the product you used in it. Been searching your website for that article, but not showing up in search results. Can you please remind me of the product you used for the Vaporizer? Thanks!
Have you looked into using oxalic acid so you can treat your bee’s during the honey flow as from what I’ve seen is Apivar cant be used with honey supers and any frame that has been exposed to Apivar should be marked and not used for honey extraction, but then on the same site from Apivar they said they put 10 strips on a single brood box and it still was under tolerable levels. I just bought Apivar and plan on using it for fall-wintering the bee’s and use oxalic acid vapor to treat the rest of the time unless it gets really bad then use Apivar. Also saw a mite test “CO2 varroa Tester” that uses CO2 to knock out the bees and the varroa, supposed to be almost as accurate as rubbing alcohol and the bee’s wake back up a few minutes later, might be something to look into to not kill 300 bees at a time.
getting the varroa to infest the drone comb,then destroying the drones can be effective for a few seasons,but then what is going to happen….you are now selecting for the varroa that prefer worker brood,in the long run your hive will suffer as a result.treating is the better option because it doesn’t select either one just burns the whole forest …so to speak…love your website…tom
To the people thinking this will make super mites that like drones, that only if the drones live. In this scenario they all die. This means surviving mites would be the ones that prefer workers. But since it is a higher gamble to try to use workers to survive, the change to worker-lovong mites will be low.
I understand the drone concept, my only problem with that method is all the resources it took to make a drone. Drones are a luxury in a hive and they only produce when times are good. After all the effort and feeding and all the time that it takes to make a drone and after all that resources are spent, that is when we take the drone frame out to discard all that work. Not that I’m saying it wrong or anything. I know u love ur bees. It just a negative point on using the drone frame. I gotta get out and properly check my hives, i just hate that cause I suck at inspection and its more like a bull in a China shop.
another thought…you are using up valuable space and resources,producing wax,caring for brood,brood that is fed taken care of by nurse bees,all valuable commodities, and tossing the result into the trash can,can you afford that for the few mites you will be rid of,my opinion is your better off raising workers who are going to grow the hive…we are stuck,lots of stuff we don’t want in our hives,small hive beetles,wax moth,all those protozoans,fact is we need hives that control these things with as little of our intervention as possible,we might need to re-queen or even let em die till we get bees that control these pests… tom