Cucumber beetles are small, striped or spotted insects that can cause significant damage to cucumber plants. Adult spotted cucumber beetles have a yellow belly and twelve large black spots, measuring 0. 25″ (6 mm) long. They are distinguished by their antennae, which are clubbed, while those of darkling beetles are not. The larvae, which look like wireworms, live in the plant, feeding on leaves, stems, and flowers, ultimately weakening the plant and reducing yield.
Cucumber beetles are known vectors for bacterial wilt and cucumber mosaic virus, which can devastate entire crops if not addressed early. To prevent cucumber beetles from reaching your plants, treat them with kaolin clay, which leaves a film on the leaves that insects don’t. These pests feed on every part of your cucurbits, but the real danger lies in the bacterial eggs they lay. Spotted beetles prefer to lay eggs in wet, coarse soil, while striped beetles prefer to lay them in wet, coarse soil.
Both species can be found on cucurbits such as squash, cucumbers, and melons. They are voracious and can kill cucumber plants, regardless of their type. The larvae are creamy white and wormlike, with slightly darker heads and tips. They grow to about 3/8 inch long, with three pairs of short legs near the head.
In Minnesota, spotted cucumber beetles, also known as southern corn rove beetles, are very visible in prairies. They are harmless but can cause significant damage to plants.
| Article | Description | Site |
|---|---|---|
| Cucumber beetles in home gardens | Striped cucumber beetles and spotted cucumber beetles are pests in Minnesota · Both species can be found on cucurbits (squash, cucumbers, melons, etc.). | extension.umn.edu |
| cucumber beetle – Grow So Easy Organic | Small — 1/4 inch long, black and yellow spotted or striped beetles, cucumber beetles are voracious and can kill cucumber plants whether they’re … | growsoeasyorganic.com |
| Identify and Control Cucumber Beetles (Striped and Spotted) | Cucumber beetle larvae are creamy white and wormlike, with slightly darker heads and tips. They grow to about 3/8 inch long, with three pairs of short legs near … | gardentech.com |
📹 Your Cucumber Plants Will DIE Every Time You Make This Mistake!
In this video, I discuss the top mistake gardeners make when growing cucumbers that causes cucumber plants to decline and die.
What Attracts Cucumber Beetles?
Cucumber beetles are drawn to cucurbit plants due to a chemical known as cucurbitacin, which imparts bitterness and serves as a defense mechanism against non-specialized herbivores (Deheer and Tallamy, 1991). These pests threaten cucurbit crops in three significant ways: they directly stunt plant growth through feeding, reduce fruit set by consuming flowers, and transmit bacterial wilt disease (Erwinia).
Striped cucumber beetles, particularly attracted to yellow colors and specific scents from cucurbit flowers, emerge in early summer and commonly damage young plants, leading to defoliation and the spread of bacterial wilt.
To counter cucumber beetle infestations, it's advisable to plant a variety of flowering herbs and perennials, which attract natural predators like ladybugs, lacewings, and minute pirate bugs. For immediate control measures, shallow dishes filled with soapy water can be used to lure and trap the beetles. Handpicking beetles and disposing of them is also effective. Monitoring for these pests is crucial as they not only harm young plants and pollination processes but also significantly impact overall garden productivity. The presence of bumblebees, encouraged by plants such as borage and scarlet runner beans, can help deter cucumber beetles, enhancing the health and vitality of cucurbit crops.
What Scent Do Cucumber Beetles Hate?
To deter cucumber beetles from your garden, consider planting flowers such as nasturtium and marigolds, herbs like catnip, and vegetables such as radishes and corn. Nasturtiums are particularly effective companion plants, known for their vibrant blooms and unique foliage, possessing a pungent scent that repels various pests. Radishes also serve as natural repellents due to their strong aroma, which discourages beetles from feeding on cucumber plants. Additionally, interplanting these flowers with cucumbers can create a barrier against beetles.
To enhance pest control, essential oils like rosemary, peppermint, thyme, and melaleuca can be applied, as they are known to repel various garden insects. While cucumber beetles can cause significant damage, maintaining a steady supply of pest deterrents is crucial. Some gardeners prefer organic solutions such as diatomaceous earth or neem oil, effective in slowing pest activity. Moreover, cucumber peels can repel common pests like slugs and ants due to their bitter smell.
In summary, combining companion planting, essential oils, and organic pest control methods can effectively reduce cucumber beetle populations while protecting your garden from other unwanted pests, promoting a healthier and more fruitful growing environment.
What Beetle Looks Like A Seed?
Seed beetles are small, oval or egg-shaped insects ranging from 1 to 10 mm (up to 2/5 inch) in length, typically exhibiting black or brown coloration. They possess a prominent snout and short forewings (elytra). Similar in size and appearance, poppy seeds measure approximately 0. 04 to 0. 06 inches, displaying a black, kidney-like shape. Infestations of tiny black bugs that resemble poppy seeds can be worrisome, with several insects exhibiting such characteristics.
Common culprits include flea beetles, which are hard-shelled and often shiny black, identifiable by their strong hind legs. This overview discusses various bugs akin to poppy seeds, such as bed bugs, carpet beetles, and fleas, along with their eggs and droppings that could be mistaken for seeds.
Among the similar insects are moss mites, armored mites, and several types of aphids and thrips that also resemble small black seeds. Carpet beetles, which can look like poppy or sesame seeds, might be found outdoors where they feed on pollen. The presence of these tiny, black insects—in gardens, on plants, or indoors—can signal potential infestations. Seed beetles, also known as bruchids, are round and can vary in color while developing within the seeds of host plants.
The strawberry seed beetle, another related species, tends to have a flatter shape and shiny black or brown appearance. Notably, broom seed beetles exhibit distinct traits to differentiate them from other similar insects. Overall, the identification of these bugs is essential for effective pest management.
How Can You Get Rid Of Cucumber Beetles?
A highly effective strategy for managing cucumber beetles is to plant a trap crop of cucurbits early in the season. This attracts beetles to young cucumber plants, where they can then be treated with pesticides like neem oil for natural pest control. To discourage beetles, one can use straw mulch and plant deterrent species nearby. Additionally, physical removal of beetles from plants is recommended. Yearly practices such as crop rotation and debris removal also help in controlling these pests.
Cucumber beetles, identifiable by their small striped or spotted appearance, can be managed through multiple natural methods that are eco-friendly and efficient. Strategies include homemade sprays, sticky traps, and various remedies. Setting up a cucumber beetle trap using lures is cited as a highly effective approach, with numerous DIY tutorials available. Utilizing row covers helps keep beetles away from plants, while companion planting with marigolds or nasturtiums reportedly repels cucumber beetles.
Early intervention by covering plants is crucial in deterring beetles. For treatment, a combination of pyrethrin insecticides and neem may be applied more than once to control infestations. It's important to apply pyrethrins carefully, as they can harm beneficial insects. Other organic methods include using neem oil, delaying planting, and applying mulch, such as aluminum-plastic, hay, and straw, around vulnerable plants. Floating row covers can prevent beetle access, but should be removed during flowering to allow for pollination. These diverse strategies ensure effective management of cucumber beetles in the garden.
What Do Borer Beetle Holes Look Like?
The primary indicators of an old house borer infestation are the oval holes, measuring between 1/4 and 3/8 inches, created by the emerging adult beetles. While other beetles might leave similar holes, their damage tends to be minimal. Wood-boring beetles are primarily identified by the emergence holes present in various wooden structures, such as wooden beams, hardwood floors, and furniture. Homeowners may find these holes and tunnels (referred to as 'galleries'), which are often challenging to detect, without observing any insects. Fresh exit holes appear clean and sharp-edged, indicating recent activity.
Once wood borers settle into a wooden surface, they can rapidly cause damage. Thus, swift action is imperative, beginning with the accurate identification of the insects involved. Correctly recognizing the species of wood borer is essential for effective eradication. Powderpost beetle exit holes resemble small nail holes and measure approximately 6-10 mm. Adult beetles are primarily active during summer, particularly the European house borer, which infests softwood, including pine and fir.
The size of emergence holes varies with species; powderpost beetles produce holes not exceeding 1/8 inch in diameter. The presence of frass—sawdust-like material—can indicate activity, as it may be found packed in tunnels or extruded through exit holes. The beetles tend to emerge in low-light conditions, so it's advisable to inspect areas beneath or behind furniture for signs of infestation. Consequently, identifying these exit holes and associated debris is vital to managing wood-boring beetle problems effectively.
How Do You Get Rid Of Seed Beetles?
To effectively get rid of elm seed bugs, various non-pesticide methods can be employed. Start with sealing entry points; caulk and seal gaps in windows, doors, and walls to prevent their intrusion. Reducing outdoor lighting can also help as it attracts fewer bugs. Sticky insect traps serve as reliable deterrents, along with a vacuum cleaner for removing bugs. When vacuuming, ensure to empty the bag or canister outside to avoid re-infestation.
Natural remedies include soap and water solutions, diatomaceous earth, and organic pest control products. Neem essential oil can repel these insects effectively, making it a good choice. Additionally, regular vacuuming and decluttering help eliminate potential beetle habitats. Always store food in sealed containers and inspect groceries thoroughly, particularly grains, to reduce attractants for bugs.
If you find western conifer seed bugs inside your home, gently capture them in a glass and release them outdoors, or simply pick them up by hand. For lazy or sluggish bugs, a vacuum cleaner is an excellent tool for removal. Using a shop vacuum with soapy water can also drown captured bugs. Maintain proper window screens to keep insects from entering.
Overall, persistent vigilance in sealing entry points, using traps, and maintaining cleanliness can significantly reduce the presence of elm seed bugs without resorting to chemicals.
Does Soapy Water Work On Cucumber Beetles?
Many growers seek solutions for cucumber beetles and wonder if soapy water could be effective. However, plain household soapy water is generally not sufficient to kill these pests. For better results, it’s advised to utilize more potent solutions such as neem oil, a natural insecticide. Alternative methods include placing shallow dishes filled with soapy water to attract and trap cucumber beetles, who cannot survive in the liquid.
While some believe soapy water can be a homemade pesticide, it's more effective to handpick the beetles and drown them in soapy water, especially during midday when the beetles are most active. Additionally, creating a garlic and hot pepper solution can also repel beetles.
Using insecticidal soaps can smother insects effectively, but simply washing plant leaves won’t prevent beetle attacks. Traps such as yellow sticky traps or yellow containers filled with soapy water can catch the beetles. In summary, while soapy water can aid in pest control, it is not the sole solution, and using neem oil alongside manual removal methods can provide more effective results for managing cucumber beetles.
What Is A Spotted Cucumber Beetle?
Diabrotica undecimpunctata, commonly known as the spotted cucumber beetle or southern corn rootworm, is a native North American cucumber beetle that poses significant agricultural threats. Both the larval and adult stages inflict damage on crops by feeding on roots, seedlings, flowers, and foliage, while also transmitting diseases, such as bacterial wilt. Adult beetles are around 1/4 inch long, characterized by a yellowish-green body with 12 black spots, and a distinct black head. Their slender larvae, measuring up to 12mm, are white except for the head, which darkens as they mature through instars.
Spotted cucumber beetles hibernate as adults in dense grass or leaf litter, emerging between early spring and late summer to feed on flowering plants, mate, and lay eggs at the base of their host crops. They are particularly problematic for cucurbit crops, including cucumbers and squashes, and are most destructive in the southern regions of the United States.
Identifying these pests is crucial for growers. The presence of spotted and striped cucumber beetles on cucurbits warrants immediate attention to prevent crop damage. Effective control and prevention strategies can aid in managing these insects in agricultural settings, protecting valuable crops from their destructive feeding habits and disease transmission.
Are Cucumber Beetles Harmful?
Cucumber beetles are significant pests that primarily target cucurbit plants, including cucumbers, squash, melons, and pumpkins. These beetles can cause extensive damage to foliage, stems, flowers, and fruits, particularly overripe produce. There are six species of cucumber beetles in the United States, with the Striped Cucumber Beetle (Acalymma vittatum) and the Spotted Cucumber Beetle (Diabrotica undecimpunctata howardi) being the most common culprits in gardens.
Both species are approximately 1/4 to 1/5 inch long and exhibit distinct markings—striped beetles display yellowish-green coloration with black stripes, while spotted beetles have similar coloring with distinct spots.
The primary threat posed by cucumber beetles extends beyond their feeding damage. They are vectors for several serious plant diseases, most notably bacterial wilt and the cucumber mosaic virus. Bacterial wilt, in particular, is a fatal disease for cucurbits like cantaloupes and muskmelons, often leading to significant crop loss. Even low populations of these beetles can effectively spread bacterial wilt, making early detection and control crucial. Additionally, cucumber beetles can transmit squash mosaic virus, which causes stunted growth and blotchy, distorted leaves.
Managing cucumber beetle populations involves both nonchemical and chemical strategies. Nonchemical options include crop rotation, using row covers, and encouraging natural predators. Chemical controls may involve the application of insecticides, but these should be used judiciously to minimize environmental impact and prevent resistance development. Integrated Pest Management (IPM) approaches are recommended to effectively control beetle populations while preserving beneficial insects.
Despite their small size, cucumber beetles can severely impact cucurbit crops through direct feeding and disease transmission. Effective identification and timely management are essential to protect gardens and ensure healthy, productive plants. By understanding the behavior and risks associated with these pests, gardeners can implement strategies to mitigate their effects and maintain robust cucurbit yields.
📹 Early season management of cucumber beetles and bacterial wilt on pumpkin and squash
In this video, Jim Jasinski will talk about the basics of identifying and managing a key early season pest of cucurbits, the striped …
If you found this article helpful, please “Like” and share to help increase its reach! Thanks for perusal!😊TIMESTAMPS for convenience: 0:00 My Cucumber Plant Is Dying! 1:37 The #1 Mistake Made Growing Cucumbers 4:43 3 Tips For Incredible Cucumber Production 7:10 How To Plant Cucumbers 8:47 Adventures With Dale
You are so right! I didn’t realize this until this summer. My husband and I can never eat all of the cucumbers that I grow. Even though I give plenty away to neighbors, I always seem to miss a few on the vine. This summer, I have had some workers doing a small construction project for me. I told them that they could take whatever they wanted and bring it home to their families. They diligently check every cucumber, squash, and tomato plant before they leave, and the plants are fruiting more than ever.
OH MY!!! That’s exactly what happened to my cucumbers last year!!! The year before I had a wonderful harvest!! Last year I was so busy and did cut off yellow cucumbers and I recall being so upset that regardless of what I was doing, my plants were dying!! 🙏 Thank you SOOO much for this information ❤️
Eureka … you cracked the code!!!! I am an old lady — granddaughter of farmers — and everything I plant inside or outside the house absolutely thrives … except the cucumbers after we’ve been on a short vacation, or when I’ve overlooked a cucumber hidden behind the foliage. Thank you for this invaluable information. I plant “Summer Dance” cukes, and they are never bitter. Sweet and crisp. Thank you so very much.
Well, you just solved a mystery for me-I am in the process of moving to a new homestead. Decided to let some of my plants-ones I knew I could not move, produce the full grown fruit-wanted the seeds. That’s what happened with my Cukes. One day I see it dying, water and tend and now…all deadish. I let the Cukes go yellow for the seeds so, answers that mystery but it is fine-can’t take the plants with me anyway.
The plant dying back after it goes to seed is the way with green beans and many other veggies. The whole purpose of any plant is to procreate, the more they are picked, ( in nature that would be predation) the more they bear out. I think my mistake is getting very gung ho, in the spring, and plant wayyy too many! But cucumbers are sneaky! LOL I always miss one or two in the heat of summer gardening. I learned this from years of gardening many years ago, wish there had been a you tube vid then! lol
Wow! That was great! Have been gardening for years; had no idea. The other day, before I saw this article, I went to a local farmer’s market, where I bought a very large cucumber with a yellowish tinge. It tasted great, but I wanted to go back and tell the vendor that her cucumber plant is soon going to die off! Amazing tip! Thank you!
Interesting, never heard this explanation before. For years I have always succession planted cukes from seedlings from Mid May through July. Do the same with summer squash and zucchini. We tend to pick everything on the smaller side and always assumed that the plants had completed their cycle after about 12 weeks. The second and third plantings are more productive than the previous ones when they mature and the previous are winding down. Will have to experiment with your theory next season.
Perfect timing with this… After decades I just put some in in a self watering 5 gal bucket with trellis on rollers out on the deck today. Years back I was thinking the sun intensity was killing them and planned to push it over 6 feet under the house overhang as needed but didn’t know about this never letting them ripen on the plant biz… You’ve likely just turned a failure into success, thank you.
I live in Charlotte and my cucumber plants are still going, too. This has been strange growing season as mine are usually dead by now. The other strange thing this year is that the cucumber plants have been blooming like crazy but I’ve not gotten that much fruit from them. For as much as they have been blooming, I usually have a ton of cucumbers. So much so that I’m usually giving a bunch away.
Well done, lad. I started trying a few things with other plants to increase yield. With peppers, I would trim after the second nodes to increase branching, and flowers. Then, I would knock off the first round of buds when they appear. Then it’s a matter of timing, and not allowing any color change while the fruit is still on the plant to extend viability later in the season. Nice article!
Aside from the mature fruit thing(which is also why green bell peppers are cheaper), I am seeing severe nutrient deficiency (Without closer inspection and testing). Like potassium, maybe sulfur too. The thin-fat-thin fruits indicate poor pollination, which could be a number of factors from bees to boron. You probably don’t need bone meal with the 5-5-5. In potting mix go for something more like a 3-2-4 or 3-2-5 ratio and give them a little extra every 3 weeks starting when they have a few full size leaves and begin to vine. (Hydroponic formulas for cucumbers have a lot of K, more than either tomato or capsicum formulas which also favor K.) Regular dirt with clay, tends to hold moderate potassium reserves so the 5-5-5 would be more appropriate. Also many sources of compost tend to be high in potassium if they were made from high carbon material, but ymmv.
Very informative. Thank you! Here where I live in Denmark we have ONE cucumber season. We usually say that June 5 is the day to plant our cucumber plants in the green house. I have been a bit of a dare devil this year and planted mine in a south/west corner of the patio up against the house hoping it wont get too cold….
I planted 3 cucumber “hills” back in March, I still have all 3 and I did pick, what is the last of the cucumbers today. I have gotten plenty of cucumbers this year, I’m well pleased. I did spray the leaves a few times with (baking soda and peroxide) and a few “Top Dressings” with water & milk and 1 top dressing of yeast diluted in water + the usual water soluble fertilizers………but yeah 4 full months of cucumber production! And lots of give-outs to neighbors and church friends. I will do the same next year is the plan. But my 2 zucchini plants did even better!
This certainly doesn’t apply in the UK. My plants always make it the whole season. I sow in early April and harvest until October every year without fail. Bitter fruits is the only issue I’ve had in 15 years of growing them. It’s quite hot and humid in my polytunnel, so guess it must just be the sun where you are. /shrug
Great article and I look forward to trying these tips this year, I live in the piedmont of NC myself. I had one question unrelated to the cucumbers, is that black plastic you have down around your beds or black rubber to walk on and keep the weeds and grass down? I have heard from others that using black plastic will attract snakes to get in and under the walkways. Any thoughts? Thanks for all your articles!
I put up my greenhouse in spring and grow one cucumber and several tomatoes, pepper and chili. The cucumber is four and half months old and has been producing about one fruit per day for over three months with sizes between 300-500g. Night temperatures have recently dropped as low as 6C, but fruits are still growing. Apparently I have done something right. I have difficulties to get my peppers and tomatoes ripened. Even before temperature dropped, it seems to take forever.
I’ve been an organic farm manager for 8 years. Hey Siri, 50 acre farm that grows every vegetable for market and grocery stores, restaurants. I wish I would’ve known this information years ago. Now I am on my own vegetable farm and I am one week away from transplanting my first cucumber plants. This is priceless information. I can’t believe you gave it away for free though. I almost sent this to my old boss, but I would rather him keep succession only planting every four weeks. Fuck that dude. You just made my season way better.
Thank you! That’s awesome that nature use the ressources efficient. One ripe seed and that’s it. And yes, it happend to me my very first garden year 2022. They had mildew but this was not the reason that they died. I had alot cucumbers and 3 got a bit yellow. That’s what killed them. That was a good lesson so thank you again! I’ll grow now 2 more and will pay more attention to them.
Nice article man. Earned an instant subscribe. It’s crazy because the first year I ever had a garden I had the most amazing cucumber plant ever. The fruit were huge and tasted great. The next year I decided to not pick as many of them and we went on vacation and I came back and they were dead. I was so mad but now I see why!
Very helpful! I had cucumbers going to sleep having started a garden for the first time this year. However I recently pruned due to what appeared to be a fungus. And now my cucumbers appear to be dying off. But may just be at the end of its lifecycle considering it’s been 90 days. And I had a few that had over-ripened and were yellowing. Definitely intend to plant some more.
WOW. Thanks for this! I didn’t know. I had several marketmores, they were beautiful. I tend my garden daily but was really busy for a couple of days and couldn’t get to it. I checked on them and they were like your sickly one up there! No cucumber beetles, no pests, I don’t have aphid problems… I must have let a few cucumbers go. We had been picking them early for many weeks and the plants did NOT seem spent, they were just gearing up, vigorous and healthy. Luckily I always plant succession plantings and also different varieties to ensure many months of cucumbers. I’m in the Northeast so we can’t grow as long but I sow about 3 plantings – in spring, early summer and middle of summer.
Great advice, thanks: don’t let them turn yellow! If you’re growing cucumbers for the first time, the seed company advice as to picking size is often ridiculous. For example, Mini-Me’s are often said to be ready at 2-3 inches. Most of the ones I pick are 5 inches and GREEN. No problem with new cukes developing.
This great advice. Thanks. Also, you must remove every cucumber that is closest to the beginning stem. Otherwise the ones following won’t ripen either. The plant just keeps growing as long as you take the next cucumber off, it will just keep going. Some hide, so look closely and remove them as they go.
I’m so glad I searched up Cucumber lifecycle… I had a plant produce last year, then I got cucumber worms or something that ate through one of my fruits, but then both of my plants seem to just… die.. I thought it was from pests, but maybe the large first on the first one was the sign. I do recall one plant dying bad and the other taking while longer befoer it went.
I planted one cucumber plant last year in my box garden. I had a little bit of space left. I put a tomato cage around it to support it. I used compost soil from my mostly grass clipping compost pile that I’ve had for over 30 years, nice rich black soil in there, mixed with mushroom manure that I bought at Home Depot. i’m in Pennsylvania. Just north of Pittsburgh. I got full size 8 to 10 inch long large cucumbers off of that plant. They just kept coming. I would be in there weeding and discover three more laying on the ground attached to the vine. I probably got about 15 cucumbers, full size off of that plant. I also planted one pickle plant. I’ve never done that before either. They looked like small watermelon’s, almost more round than long, the biggest pickles I ever saw. They probably wait a couple pounds each, I didn’t know when to pick them. They looked and tasted like cucumbers, but fat. I’m not planting pickles again this year, but I am planting cucumbers again… Friends gave me for cucumber plants, but I’m only planting too, I don’t want to crowd my four tomato plants in my 4‘ x 12‘ long box garden where are my tomato plants last year were over 7 feet tall. I had to build a. trellis structure like a ladder at 4 feet and at 6 feet to support the tomato plants. And that was being pulled over by the weight of the plants because I had six tomato plants last year spaced at 18 inches in one single row. I ended up with way way too many tomatoes, more than I could use, and more than I could give away to my family and neighbors so just for plants this year because they were just rotting and falling all over the ground at the end of the season in September/October I don’t know how to tell if a cucumber is ripe.
I have never had a cucumber plant die because it reproduced viable seed. Maybe it was just that particular kind of cucumber. I noticed you planted Alef Beit. This is my first year planting it. I ordered seed. I planted about 30 or more seeds but only two came up out of the whole lot. Well at least I have a pollinator. I will keep in mind what you said in this article. I plan on saving seed from the two that I have left and planting another crop this year for fall harvest. Curious where you live? Alef Beit is an Israeli cucumber. I ordered seed because I love everything Israel. Especially Israeli salad.
Does this apply to any cucumbers. I am trying to grow snaking cumbersome I have never before grown cucumbers. I only planted them in May because here in southern Ontario Canada we don’t garden until then. Any suggestions please respond. I hive no idea what I am doing. I also may have made a mistake and planted too many and no enough room. I guess I will learn!
I don’t know what is different in North Carolina but up in Ohio I plant cucumbers in a 5 gallon bucket. I have a trellis and they go all the way to the top of a building have cucumbers all summer without a problem at all we have more cucumbers, and we know what to do with. So I don’t know what the difference is, but I don’t have to keep planting them every six weeks.
thank you! I didn’t know a ripe cuke kills off the plant; nor that a dying plant attracts bad bugs. This year I plan to plant munchers first and picklers second. Do all your teachings here still apply? I’m in central Ohio, planning to start Cuke seeds in late April/early May (Zone 6a; ALFD 5/15). Already have nightshades started, perhaps a bit early. Shooting to transplant them around May 25th.
As a kid me and my two brothers picked pickles in the morning and peaches in the afternoon. I remember on the pickle plants they had these little feelers would sprout out and we would lay a small stick on top of it and within minutes those feelers would start to curl around that stick to anchor it down. Never heard about the large yellow cucumbers spelling its’ demise, that’s very interesting 🤔
I usually wait until they are just starting to turn and pick. I LIKE eating the seeds. They don’t taste as good when they are little. Also, does this work for squash too? I do notice squash REALLY need pollinators. I have hand pollinated them with q tips when we didn’t get pollinators. Now we have clover all over, and and my son plants zinnias and marigolds.
This article is 8 months old, but i just found it. I was wondering if replanting cucumber plants for another crop is done in all areas of the country? I”m in central Illinois and we only plant them once, but our plants get much larger and produce a lot of cucumbers. They do start to die off eventually, long before a first frost, but I’m not sure our growing season is long enough to start over with new plants.
I sacrifice two plants which have the best looking cucumbers. I leave these 2 cucumbers on the vine to get big, fat and yellow. I remove them just before the first frost. They will become my seed donors. I have been saving my English cucumber seeds and planting them next spring for several years now. I have been disappointed too many times, by the seed packets that are being sold as English cucumber and then found out that they were just the usual slicing cucumbers.