A queen excluder is a selective barrier placed between the brood box and the honey super in a beehive. It works like a sieve, allowing smaller worker bees to pass through gaps while blocking off larger queens and drones. The queen excluder is an advanced piece of equipment that ensures the honeycomb remains free of brood and baby honeybee parts.
In beekeeping, a queen excluder is a perforated barrier placed between the brood chamber and the honey super, preventing the queen from entering the honey super and laying eggs. The brood chamber is the part of the hive where the queen is confined to raise brood or baby bees. In beekeeping, a queen excluder is necessary to keep honey free of any eggs or baby honeybee parts. The most common type of queen excluder is a wire mesh screen with hexagonal-shaped openings.
Using a queen excluder is not “natural” as bees in the wild do not have queen excluders. It seems unnecessary to separate honey from brood by force. The purpose of the queen excluder is to prevent her from moving from one area of the hive to another. However, it does not always work. A plastic or metal grid that is positioned in bee hives by bee keepers has holes in it that are small enough to allow worker bees through.
A queen excluder is a piece of preformed metal or plastic that is placed between the brood and the main honey storage areas of the beehive. If you have difficulty finding your queen, a queen excluder can help determine which box she is in. If you absolutely have to find your queen, a queen excluder can be used to help you locate her.
In conclusion, a queen excluder is a crucial beekeeping accessory that helps control the movement of bees within a hive. It is essential for beekeepers to ensure the honeycomb remains free of eggs and baby honeybee parts, but it is not a natural solution.
Article | Description | Site |
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THE PROS AND CONS OF QUEEN EXCLUDERS | Using a queen excluder is not “natural”. It’s true bees in the wild don’t have queen excluders. It seems unnecessary to separate honey from brood by force. | beekeepinglikeagirl.com |
Queen excluder | In beekeeping, a queen excluder is a selective barrier inside the beehive that allows worker bees but not the larger queens and drones to traverse the barrier. | en.wikipedia.org |
Queen excluders: are they needed for successful … | The purpose of the queen excluder is to prevent her from moving from one area of the hive to another. It does not always work. I have found that … | thewalrusandthehoneybee.com |
📹 Beekeeping Queen Excluder Or Honey Excluder? Worthless Or Worth It? Episode 6
Beekeeping can be frustrating if your honey production is poor. Are you wondering why your honey production from your hive is …
What Is A Queen Excluder?
A queen excluder is a specialized barrier used by beekeepers to control the movements of the queen bee within a hive, preventing her from laying eggs in honey supers. Traditionally made of perforated zinc, these devices feature holes large enough for worker bees to pass through while keeping the larger queen and drones confined. Typically, a queen excluder consists of a wire mesh screen with hexagonal openings, designed to allow worker bees access between the brood chamber and the honey chamber while denying passage to the queen.
The primary purpose of the queen excluder is to ensure that honeycomb remains free of brood, maintaining the quality of honey harvested. This selective barrier enhances honey production by restricting the breeding activities of the queen to the lower brood chamber. While functional, queen excluders also come with both advantages and disadvantages; they help keep honey clean but may affect the hive’s overall dynamics. Additionally, placing an excluder can simplify the process of locating the queen, as her movement is limited to the lower sections of the hive.
It’s essential to understand that while excluders are intended to be impassable barriers for the queen, they may not be foolproof under all circumstances. Beekeepers may consider factors like hive management strategies and the overall well-being of the colony when deciding whether to incorporate a queen excluder.
In summary, the queen excluder is a crucial tool in beekeeping, effectively managing the queen's movements to optimize honey production and maintain high standards of honey quality.
Why Do You Need A Queen Excluder?
A queen excluder serves as a barrier in beekeeping, allowing the queen bee to remain on the brood frames in the lower part of the hive while preventing her from accessing the honey supers above. This setup ensures that the honeycomb is free from brood, as the excluder only allows worker bees to pass through while confining the queen and drones. The primary advantage of using a queen excluder is effective management of the brood, as it reduces the amount of brood to defend, making the colony easier to handle. When harvesting honey, beekeepers can confidently remove supers without the worry of finding eggs laid in them.
Queen excluders are created from materials like plastic or stainless steel and feature gaps large enough for worker bees but too small for the queen. This perforated barrier separates the brood chamber from honey storage areas, ensuring the queen's egg-laying remains confined to the brood chamber. By controlling where the queen can lay eggs, the excluder also helps manage colony population and potentially aids in varroa mite control.
However, the use of queen excluders is a choice that should be applied selectively, as they may not always function effectively. Some beekeepers prefer not to use them, as not excluding the queen can lead to a larger hive population and increased honey production. Personally, I find queen excluders beneficial, as they simplify finding the queen and help keep the honeycomb clean. Overall, understanding the pros and cons of queen excluders can enhance hive management and honey harvesting strategies.
Do Commercial Beekeepers Use Queen Excluders?
Queen excluders are devices used in beekeeping to prevent the queen bee from laying eggs in honey supers, allowing only worker bees to pass through. Most commercial beekeepers employ excluders to simplify honey extraction, enabling them to remove boxes of honey without needing to inspect every frame individually, which saves time and effort given the large number of hives they manage daily. While some beekeepers avoid using queen excluders, believing they restrict bee movement too much, many see them as essential for efficient honey production.
They allow for easier tracking of queens and help maintain the honey supers free of brood. Different types of excluders, typically metal or plastic, come with their own pros and cons. The debate among beekeepers may reflect personal preferences or specific operational methods. While commercial beekeepers may use queen excluders without hesitation, those new to beekeeping often have reservations, questioning if bees will navigate the barriers effectively.
Alternatives to using excluders exist, as some believe in a more natural hive environment, allowing free movement between the brood chamber and honey supers. However, excluders were designed in the late 19th century to enhance commercial honey production and can standardize operations when utilized properly. Despite differing opinions on their necessity, queen excluders play a critical role in managing hives and ensuring successful honey harvests, making them a valuable tool in the beekeeping industry.
When Should You Not Harvest Honey?
It is generally advised not to harvest honey from first-year beehives to ensure bee survival through winter. Honeybees produce honey for various purposes, and the ideal months for harvesting are late July, August, and mid-September, with personal preferences influencing the exact timing. Several factors should be considered when determining the right moment to harvest, such as wax caps, honey cell conditions, prevailing weather, and local flowering cycles. Signs of honey ripeness include color, moisture levels, aroma, and taste, and uncapped honey should be avoided as it indicates incomplete processing.
Optimal harvesting timing is critical for the quantity and quality of honey collected; thus, beekeepers are advised to monitor their hives closely. The focus should be on ensuring bees have sufficient honey reserves for winter survival. The general guideline for harvesting is once, or possibly twice, per year during late summer or early fall, ideally after observing capped honey.
If planning to harvest later, wait until the end of August or early September to prepare appropriately. Experts suggest refraining from honey extraction until the hive has withstood its first winter, emphasizing the importance of the bees’ health and hive viability. A typical season might include a harvest in early June and another in September, marking the conclusion of the nectar flow cycle. Patience is encouraged until late-season honey flows, usually around September, for optimal collection. Beekeepers can harvest when temperatures exceed 65 degrees, with strategies varying based on desired handling of honey.
Will Bees Make Honey Without A Queen?
The queen bee is the pivotal figure in a colony, responsible for laying up to 2, 000 eggs daily. In a typical hive, there is only one queen amidst tens of thousands of worker bees and a smaller number of male drones. A colony cannot swarm without a queen, as she is essential for growth and order. When a swarm occurs, it often encompasses after-swarming, where a new queen is raised to ensure colony continuity. A queenless colony cannot reproduce and will ultimately struggle to survive; they can last only a few weeks before the absence of a queen becomes critical.
Workers quickly recognize her absence and will attempt to create a new queen by feeding selected larvae royal jelly, but a colony can sustain itself for only a couple of months without her. Experienced beekeepers often replace older queens annually to maintain a productive hive. Identifying a queenless hive is crucial for beekeepers, and signs include the absence of brood and eggs, as the queen is solely responsible for egg-laying.
In summer, colonies may appear queenless for various reasons, prompting beekeepers to address the issue without purchasing a mated queen. Bees will rearrange hive contents, resulting in honey being stored in previously occupied brood areas. Some beekeepers take advantage of this by relocating the queen to promote population growth under controlled conditions. Most of our understanding of bee behavior comes from studying the European honeybee, yet it is essential to note that not all bee species rely on a queen for reproduction. The dynamics of hive operation hinge heavily on the queen’s presence, underscoring her vital role in the colony's health and productivity.
Can You Harvest Honey Without A Queen Excluder?
Harvesting pure honey without using a queen excluder is feasible but requires careful strategies. The checkerboard technique, which involves adding a third brood box, is recommended to minimize brood presence in honey supers. However, if significant brood is discovered, it is often wise to refrain from extraction to preserve the drawn comb and the brood itself.
Beekeepers have noted that queens typically do not traverse honey areas, allowing them to add supers without the need for an excluder. Generally, if there's a sufficient arc of honey above brood, it is acceptable. This approach permits honey harvesting without concerning oneself with potential drone brood hidden within the comb.
A primary advantage of utilizing a queen excluder is the prevention of the queen laying eggs in honey cells, simplifying the honey extraction process. Excluders facilitate hive inspections by restricting the queen's access to certain areas and safeguarding the quality of wax from the combs. On the contrary, if done improperly, avoiding the excluder risks harming the queen, particularly in scenarios employing methods like the Demaree technique.
Ultimately, it's important to track the movement of the queen. While she may occasionally rise into honey supers, she typically lays eggs only in the center frames. If too much brood is present, it might be prudent to leave it intact.
Despite the convenience of excluders, many beekeepers opt against using them, seeking alternative methods to keep the queen separated from honey production areas. Thus, understanding bee behavior and employing specific techniques can allow for honey harvesting while preserving the hive's integrity without the need for a queen excluder.
What Are The Disadvantages Of Queen Excluder?
The queen excluder, while advantageous for beekeepers, has its downsides for bees. Its design can shorten the lifespan of worker bees as they navigate the gaps, leading to potential wing damage. The device is optional and should only be deployed temporarily. The primary purpose of a queen excluder is to keep the honey supers brood-free, which can result in a more manageable hive. However, the use of excluders is often criticized for being unnatural since wild bees do not encounter such barriers. Furthermore, limiting the queen’s brood affects the number of worker bees, potentially impacting honey production.
There are various disadvantages associated with queen excluders. The worker bees can suffer injuries while trying to pass through. Additionally, excluders can be costly and may easily become damaged. Their design may lead to burr comb buildup, which obstructs airflow and can cause overheating during summer heatwaves, putting the colony at risk. Drones may also become trapped above the excluders if the brood is raised into the honey super. While excluders can help manage hive conditions, they also present risks like hindering honey production and causing increased stress or mortality rates among the bees.
Effective management necessitates careful consideration of when and how to utilize queen excluders to minimize their adverse effects on colony health and productivity. Ultimately, the balance between their benefits and drawbacks remains a contentious topic in beekeeping.
What Happens If A Beehive Has 2 Queens?
A hive may exhibit multiple queens when a new queen hatches while the original queen is still alive. This scenario typically leads to one of several outcomes: the worker bees may kill the old queen, the two queens might engage in a lethal fight, or the colony may swarm. In the case of fighting, the victorious queen will assume her role as the sole monarch of the hive. However, it is also possible to introduce a new queen without the death of the old one by allowing bees from different hives to share pheromones through a newspaper barrier, ultimately leading the bees to accept both queens.
Despite a common belief that a hive can only host one queen, instances of dual queens are not unusual, particularly during the supersedure process, where a new queen emerges while the current one is still reigning. As the existing queen ages, her pheromone levels decline, signaling the worker bees that her reproductive capability is waning, which can prompt them to consider an alternative queen.
When two queens are present, the worker bees typically choose one to support through pheromonal signals. If not managed properly, rival queens lead to aggressive encounters, resulting in one queen's demise. Beekeeping practices have evolved to allow coexistence with the use of queen excluders, which maintain physical separation between the two queens in distinct areas of the hive. This method can stabilize the arrangement, making simultaneous reigns viable but rare.
From a beekeeping perspective, enabling two queens to function in the same colony can protect against issues related to queen failure, ensuring continuity in egg production. Nevertheless, this dual presence is generally considered an exception rather than the rule, as two queens sharing a hive may create complications. Ultimately, one queen will likely become dominant, leading to the other queen’s disappearance or death. Thus, while two queens can exist temporarily or with careful management, normally, only one queen is favored for the stability of the colony.
📹 Queen Excluders – That Bee Man
There’s a theory going around that the direction of the slots in a queen excluder will impact its performance. This video illustrates …
David, you really DO work hard to bring us some great articles! I appreciate it very much, because I learn so much from perusal you. I’m a second year beekeeper, but my colony died over the winter. I have a new one and I’m working hard to get it built up and be able to make it this year. Thank you for the opportunity to win the course you’re giving away.
Thanks Dave! Sure enjoy your teaching and straight forward, off the cuff, truthful instruction and commentary style. I want to start next year and have watched quite a few of yours and enjoy them the most. I watch your articles while exercising on the eliptical, treadmill, and evening while my wife watches MASH. Stay healthy and God’s best to you and your family!
Im not a beekeeper yet,im studying and perusal articles. Gathering all I can. Thank you for your Worth it or Worthless series. Has been a tremendous help. Have been learning so much from your articles. The one on handling frames was so informative about such a basic,but very important subject. Hadnt seen that covered before. Thanks and God Bless,Proverbs 24:13
Hello, after 35 years, I can watch and listen something about bees, my father was beekeeping and he was murmured 35 years ago, my family broke completely. Few months ago my brother passed, and now I just remember my father, and how beautiful was when he’s lived, and how we enjoyed all the benefits bees produced.we was happy. Now I want to learn what my dad loved so much, I remember he go check his bees without shirt, and he’s talked to them like they listed.when he’s passed the bees passed as well.I crying right now, but feel so happy. I wish to take one of your curse, and I like to visit you bee house, thank you so much for this. You make me remember happy times.
Perfect timing as always. A queen excluder is on my shopping list for tomorrow. So I was excited to get this notification. I’m in my second year of beekeeping, First year for honey! I have three hives now and while I’ve made a lot of mistakes there were twice as many I would’ve made had I not been perusal you all this time. Thanks for your consistently informative and fun to watch articles.
Thanks for such useful information! Although I’ve been beekeeping for a few years now, I haven’t been able to get together with any other beekeepers to answer my questions so have just read books instead. Unfortunately the bees don’t read them; they don’t do what they’re supposed to!! A course of beekeeping with you would answer so much!!
Good morning Dave. I use queen extruders in the same way that you do and it works very well. Nine years of trial and error. Thanks for the tip on the burlap . I mix it with cut up pieces of paper, wood from bee packages and dried grass clippings and it works very well. Starts easy, stays lit for a long tome and produces large amounts of cool white smoke. I’m able to work my hives with no protective clothing as long as I smoke well and don’t squish any. Have a fantastic day. Lou
Like the articles. Very helpful. Been following you all of this year. This is my third year to attempt raising bees, finally harvested my first two gallons of honey. Robber bees have been a real problem in my area of South Mississippi. Lots of other beekeepers around. Keep making the articles the worth it or useless series has been very good.
Bees are really beautiful. I’ve just recently got into beekeeping, just in the last few weeks, when I was at ace hardware and saw a complete 1-box beehive and made the choice, I even bought that very book of yours on Amazon! Gonna start my new beehive when I’m not living near too many people that can scare the bees into stinging them
About this time last year, I began down the path of beekeeping with a 20 hour intro course, presented by a local beekeeping group. The course was very well presented, and a pretty thorough orientation. They didn’t miss much. I was hooked. I started with two nucs of mutts in mid April 2021. We had a very rainy Spring, which held back honey production, as nectar and pollen were incessantly being washed down. I ended up feeding to keep the population strong and building. By the first of June, from those two hives I provisioned a queenless nuc of my own, that requeened successfully, with a full pattern of brood by July 9. I am overwintering, now Jan ‘22, all three in single deeps, here in N TX. So far, the numbers appear strong. The third hive appears to be the strongest, and heaviest box. I love your content, and am looking forward to a strong Spring. Your methods to reduce treatments are simply the best.
I would love that beekeeping course!!! I am determined to become certified by helping my dad with his bees and learning as much as I can with mine! Bees have had my heart since I can remember but I’ve rediscovered my love for them as therapy. 🍯🐝 Your articles have helped me so much so far! Thank you for doing this!
Hi David, thank you so much for all your content. You are my Bee guy- I look to all your articles to learn and help me become a better bee keeper. My husband caught a swarm of bees about a yr and a half ago before we moved. We brought our bees to our new home last summer and in the spring time I was worried that they would swarm- so I jumped right in to start my adventure. I’ve observed things and then learned about them on your website. It’s been a lot of fun. I found my queen for the first time about two weeks ago and that was super rewarding. She had a actually been above my queen excluder and I had seen eggs up there and knew she was in there somewhere!!
Thank you David, for spreading your knowledge to all of us hungry learners. I have purchased a bee hive and I am devouring all your articles. I don’t have bees yet; I’m trying to learn all I can first. I need a beekeeping course for sure. Before I was married and my name changed, I always wondered what my maiden name meant and where it came from. After doing some research this summer, I found out my maiden name, Meaders, meant honey wine maker! So that was it! I was making mead within days and that has now led to researching beekeeping. What can I say?! It’s in my ancestry. I’ve heard the call to carry on the tradition and teach my daughters too. Thank you for considering us in your generous class offer!
I’ve had the pleasure of looking up where you all are. You were making a article and I hadn’t called to make an appointment. I’m a beginner and have learned so much from your articles. I lost a colony to wax moths and really want to stick with this. I’ve purchased your books and am glad you’re there! I’m hoping to take some of your course work🐝
Hi David. Thanks for the articles. I’m in year 1 so lots to learn. I too use burlap in my smoker. I stuff some in a toilet paper cardboard tube and use that to light the smoker. I make 4 or 5 at a time so they are handy when I need to start the smoker. I stuff some fresh grass on top to cool the smoke. Thanks for all the tips and visuals.
My husband was the one who wanted to get into beekeeping and I was just going to be an observer – right! I find myself spending more and more time perusal, reading, and learning about these wonderful creatures and your articles are so helpful! Reading is one thing, but I learn more by perusal so I would love to have access to your class!!
Hey David! We are a homeschool family, I’ve got five kiddos! My older two have watched and studied bee keeping articles and books with me for months. We are planning our first hive for the spring! We love you attention to detail, down to even nutrition for bee food! We raise chickens and ducks and the kids help with it all. We would LOVE to do your bee keeping course and would turn it into a homeschooling class for them too! Thank you for all your wisdom and articles!my son had the best eyes and always spots a queen in ten articles! 🤭
I really enjoy your articles, I hope I win your class. That was pretty cliché. Seriously though, I have learned 99% of my backyard beekeeping knowledge from your articles. I greatly appreciate what you’re doing, I’m positive anyone tuning into your YouTube website will find the same benefits that I have. Keep up the good work. Thanks again
Great discussion on this topic. I have had both good and bad experiences with using a excluders, including putting an open frame in and having them create drone comb and eggs. But, now i will have that large cell capped comb! love your easy going style and that you admit that “things happen” sometimes and we can’t know everything sometimes. JIm
Hi David- this article is very timely for me. My bees don’t seem to want to go through the queen excluder, and I was wondering why! This article was a huge help! I don’t know that I am brave enough to handle the queen, so I’m going to leave them alone. I would love to win your bee keeping courses! Thanks for posting..
Hello David, Another great informative article. If I’m not taking honey this year so the bees have stores for the winter, I’m assuming I do not need the excluder. Correct? I’m a first year keeper and was just visiting my hives early this morning. I have a question for you….my 2 hives a located near our 100 blueberry bushes. I see bees on the blueberries that are over ripe, will they use the sugar for honey? Thanks a bunch! Christine
Always appreciate your articles David. What do you do in those hives about the drones above the excluder? If a keeper is comfortable with shaking frames what about, after searching for the queen and not finding her, to just shake each super frame into the lower deep(s) to be 100% sure the queen is below? Oh and I agree on having excluders in the tool box. I lean toward metal ones – in my mind they are more consistent and easier to pass through (perhaps a subject for a new article?).
Hi David. Do you think that letting the queen lay up the top box frames before adding the excluder, (just to speed up comb building) then once she’s done that set the excluder in, is a good strategy? i mean if she does lay eggs on the frames then the bees have no choice but to aggressively build that comb up and once they cap it set in the excluder (making sure she is not up there of course) then the bees back-fill as you said. I realize timing is a factor if you are coming up on a flow period then perhaps this isnt a good idea but say its the beginning of the year and you just want to get the queen up to speed and quickly build some comb in the process? Would this be a effective way to quickly get comb building going? It looked like the side by side comparison had a better result as far as getting comb built and filled with honey in the one you allowed the queen to have a go at first. Cheers David 😀
I took a course through Penn State Extension, and they mentioned that there are some reasons to believe that queen excluders shorten the lifespan of the workers. Any thoughts? In my mind, it makes sense that it would contribute to wear of there wings (thus shortening life), having to constantly pass through tiny holes. Been liking the content. Keep it up.
I’m a brand new bee “haver” and was quite surprised to learn that the bees only eat by their proboscis. I wonder how they are able to eat the pollen patties. Anyway, it was good info for me. I have watched countless articles of yours even though I’ve only been at the game for a very brief time. I must be averaging a few hours of study per day. I hope to win the classes. Thanks for all you do.
I’ve got two hives from nucs installed in June and one is about a week or two ahead of the other… I gave the stronger hive a few days with a super of undrawn comb, then did a thorough queen check of the honey super and put the excluder on (she’d laid eggs on a few frames but wasn’t up there). Then when my weaker hive was ready for a super, I stole a few frames that were starting to be drawn out on the stronger hive’s second super for the weaker hive’s first one and installed the queen excluder right away, and they’ve both been drawing out comb and packing in nectar, the stronger hive has been drawing out and filling a medium honey super in just over a week and the other hive’s taking a bit longer. I wasn’t expecting to get any honey this year at all, but boy did my bees prove me wrong!
Hi David I would really appreciate getting to participate in your ultimate online beekeeping class. I just caught my first swarm July 3 and I don’t know what I’m doing. haha We’re in southern Indiana, and there are about enough bees to cover one frame. I haven’t seen the queen yet, but they are very docile. I would really like to take better care of them by means of your courses. Thank you for your consideration, Malachi Meeker.
Good info. How about doing a article about entrance reducers? Using the traditional ones sold when should you use the different size entrances or completely remove it? Such as smallest hole for 1 deep or smaller, medium size hole for 2 deeps, no reducer for 3 or more deeps, maybe smallest size on big hive during durth or robbing season etc..
I like to use my queen excluder between my moisture box and my first box, honey super or brood box, during the winter. My first year they started comb on my moisture box and when I went to do a quick check I couldn’t get my moisture box off neatly. Second year I used it and it worked great, so when I did a quick check I was able to feed them without disturbing them.
Thanks for the article. Very helpful. I am too unsure in finding the queen so I would simply shake all the frames in the super and then put on the queen excluder. You also may want to inform folks that if there is brood up there in the super and then you put on the excluder, you may want a top entrance temporarily to allow the drones to escape.
Love your beekeeping articles. I got my first wooden ware from you 8 years ago. Unfortunately for you, now I have a good local supplier but I still love perusal your articles. I would like to get one of your cowboy beekeeping hats. The link here does not work however. Maybe you should get some and sell them from your own store. Keep up the good work.
Great article. I use the same way a queen excluder in my 6 frame over 6 frame setup. No QE until there is a honey in upper box, then the queen to the lower box and QE between lower and upper box. I remove QE and extra suppers in fall so that the broodnest can move upwards during the winter and eat all the honey/sugar:-)
Years ago I got hired to assist with the honey pull by a guy that kept bees as a hobby, but the FDA disagreed and classified it as full on commercial because he pulled hundreds of gallons a season, he had queen excluders on every hive, so when I eventually get into bee keeping I know for a fact I’ll be using an excluder because it’ll make harvest time so much easier.
Eric from NH here. Great vid Dave I just added ky first super last week. My bees have been working hard all season making all new comb. I plan to look this weekend to see their progress. I did use an excluded so I am interested to see how much I’ve slowed them down. Do you have a vid on handling the queen? Thanks I’d love to win a free class!
I would love to be considered for your course please. I’ve been studying for the past year but couldnt afford the courses so I’m here just gathering all the info I can. Trying to get my daughter into the hobby as well. She’s 9. Thanks for the opportunity to learn more. I appreciate the time you take to make these articles. I’ve learned alot. Have a good day.
Every bee keeper should exercise their own “artistic freedom”. For example, I always use a queen excluder below honey boxes. I’ve had colonies, side by side, using the exact same equipment where one hive pumped out the honey and the other did not. My science mind tells me that if I use the same equipment, the difference in honey production has less to do with the equipment and more to do with either the queen and/or the hive health. I generally build comb by putting frames of bare foundation on first year hives while feeding them. They’re in comb-building mode and they go nuts, excluder or not! And if I have to put bare foundation on a production hive (which I don’t like doing ’cause it wastes a lot of that good flower nectar), I’ll slip a box in underneath a box with comb. I just don’t think it’s ethical to get brood in your honey box! No bug juice thank you!
Another great article! We’re learning so much. Still need to take your course, but strapped for money after Covid job loss, etc. How do we enter the course give away?? Thanks again Dave. Love you! By the way, we agree that you definitely should be making money from your Youtube website and the products you sell. We are so happy to have found you and are learning so much from you. As total ‘newbees’ it is very helpful and you are a great teacher! We are placing an order from your website soon. We tried, but the items were out of stock so we’ll be getting them as soon as you have more. —Adam and Mary in NH
When you have 2 deeps are drawn out and the queen have plenty of space to lay eggs on would it be a bad idea to put the honey super below those deepa and have the queen excluder between the lower honey super and those deeps on top of it. Just a thought. 5hen the bee’s doesn’t have problem drawing out the frames and the queen can’t get down to the honey super. But have an opening on one of the brood deep for the drones to get out. Just a thought. I can’t take the online course because I live in the Netherlands and can’t travel over to USA just to walk around with you even if it would be nice