What Is Used Beekeeping Equipment Worth?

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Beekeeping equipment can be a cost-effective investment, especially for beginners. Average hives in good condition can cost between $250-350, depending on the item. Newer frames and drawn combs are worth about half of their original cost. However, some frames may be worth nothing if they are black, old brood comb, and unpopulated. A general rule when buying used equipment is that it is worth 40 of new value, with the exception of drawn combs.

Buying used beekeeping equipment can help save money without compromising on quality. However, the cost of buying secondhand equipment depends on factors such as mite issues, incapability, or disenchantment of new beeks. It is recommended to avoid old-used equipment from the pre-Varroa era, as there is a higher risk of AFB contamination.

When buying used equipment, it is important to check the price and determine which items are worth buying and which should be left alone. Proper cleaning of used supplies is crucial to protect your bees. If 50 new value is good for both parties, start negotiating and pick pieces worth more than 50 and less than 50.

Used beekeeping gear is usually more affordable than new items, making it attractive to beginners on a budget. Immediate availability of used equipment allows you to start beekeeping sooner than waiting for new items to arrive. However, it is not worth the risk of infection. All items for sale should be fit for purpose, with wooden hive parts being scraped clean and blow-lamped.

To make more money from selling honey, wax, and bees, front load expenses for equipment and bees. A group for beekeepers can help buy or sell beekeeping equipment.

Useful Articles on the Topic
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Used Beekeeping Equipment: Is it a Good Deal?Learn the ins and out of buying used beekeeping equipment. Is it a good way to safe money or a serious risk to your bees?carolinahoneybees.com
Is It Good To Buy Second Hand Beekeeping Equipment?I have seen second hand equipment on Ebay and at beekeeping auctions go for close to or more than the price of new. … It’s not worth the risk of …cotswoldbees.co.uk
Buying Used Beekeeping Equipment – Yes or No?The best used equipment to buy is anything that can be readily cleaned and sanitised. This will help you avoid any difficulties related to infection.tribesbeekeepersassociation.com

📹 Is Used Bee Equipment Worth The Trouble?

I bought nine used bee boxes with frames, bottoms and lids. Three were stacked and supposed to have a colony. All that was in …


Can I Recycle Second Hand Beekeeper Clothing
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Can I Recycle Second Hand Beekeeper Clothing?

Recycling second-hand beekeeper protective clothing is generally feasible, as new bee suits and jackets can be expensive. However, it is crucial to ensure that any used beekeeper clothing is properly laundered before use. Caution is advised with used beekeeping gloves, which may not be safe to reuse. Since 2013, H&M has led in fashion sustainability by launching a global in-store recycling initiative, allowing customers to drop off clothing.

The Used Clothes Collection scheme accepts various items, though it excludes pillows, wadded quilts, used underwear/socks, old suits, damaged clothing, and outdated winter apparel. Recycling banks and logistical support are provided based on the volume of recyclables collected.

Organizations like Friends of the Earth Hong Kong (FoE(HK)) invest in recycling efforts, highlighting the importance of buying second-hand, repairing, and recycling clothes. Tips include donating surplus winter clothes to friends or relatives before recycling, with many NPOs channeling recycled garments to second-hand shops or charity stalls. Options for recycling old clothes include donating to charity organizations, participating in clothing recycling programs, reselling through consignment or online platforms, or utilizing fabric recycling initiatives for textiles unsuitable for reuse. TRAID and local charity shops are accessible donation points, while scheduling pickups is also an option.

Old clothes can be downcycled into products like upholstery stuffing, insulation, carpet padding, wipers for car washes, or even new textiles. For beekeeping equipment specifically, items such as galvanized honey extractors, settling tanks, old frames, and adult bee suits can be recycled. It is recommended to reuse equipment from your own deadouts and avoid accepting used beekeeping gear from others. Proper cleaning and sterilization of beekeeping equipment are essential when bringing it in from the field.

Reusing old frames involves cleaning and sanitizing to ensure they are safe for future use. Overall, second-hand clothing should be thoroughly cleaned, and items difficult to launder should be avoided to ensure safety and sustainability.

What Is The Current Value Of Bee
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What Is The Current Value Of Bee?

The current price of Bee (BEE) is $0. 00003354, marking a drop of 5. 65% in the last 24 hours and 3. 22% over the past week. The cryptocurrency has a 24-hour trading volume of $957. 60 and a circulating supply of 1 billion BEE, with a market capitalization of $33, 503. 26. Simultaneously, Bee's price was reported at $0. 00003710 earlier today, reflecting a rise of 2. 0% from an hour ago and 19. 4% since yesterday. Compared to its price a week ago, BEE shows an increase of 8. 1%.

However, the metrics vary slightly across different platforms. Another source shows the Bee price at $0. 000034, with a 24-hour trading volume of $211. 68 USD and a decrease of 9. 63% in the recent 24 hours. Up-to-date tracking can be done through CoinGecko, where users can view live trends, market cap, trading volume, and other analytics on Bee.

Additionally, the price of Bee (BEE) was noted as $0. 0000312 with a trading volume of $218. 14, showing declines of 14. 11% in the last day and 18. 75% over the week, amounting to a market cap of $31, 571. 43. Bee Token is fluctuating in value, with the latest updates indicating a price of $0. 000034 and varying market activity. Globees (BEE) recently had a value of $0. 004546, reflecting a minor hourly decline but a substantial increase since yesterday.

Various exchanges report differing prices, underscoring the dynamic nature of crypto-assets like Bee Token, which can be monitored for updates on market trends and pricing through platforms like Binance and other cryptocurrency price trackers.

What Is The Value Of Beekeeping
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What Is The Value Of Beekeeping?

Commercial beekeeping significantly contributes to agricultural economics, adding between $15 to $20 billion annually. The western honey bee, the most widely managed pollinator, accounts for over 80 million hives producing approximately 1. 6 million tonnes of honey each year. Pollinators like bees are crucial for food production, and bees play a major role in pollination within ecosystems, enhancing biodiversity while helping mitigate climate change.

Beekeeping produces valuable products: honey, beeswax, propolis, and royal jelly, all essential for various industries including cosmetics and food. The benefits of beekeeping extend to environmental health as beekeepers help maintain bee populations, which are vital for ecological balance. Moreover, honeybees are essential for the pollination of crops, crucial for animal feed and, consequently, our dairy, meat, and egg production. The economic and ecological value of bees lies mainly in their capacity to pollinate, which directly impacts food security.

Consequently, the practice of beekeeping contributes to local development and provides an income-generating opportunity for beekeepers. As a sustainable practice, it not only supports the environment and biodiversity but also aids in community resilience and economic stability. Thus, beekeeping stands out as a rewarding venture that enhances both environmental and economic well-being.

Should You Buy Used Bee Equipment For Sale
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Should You Buy Used Bee Equipment For Sale?

When considering the purchase of used beekeeping equipment, there are both advantages and risks. Newer used equipment is often in good condition, and you might find items available due to local beekeepers retiring or quitting the hobby. However, caution is advised as used equipment can carry pathogens and parasites, making it potentially hazardous. It’s crucial to ensure any second-hand equipment is thoroughly cleaned, as contamination is a significant concern.

If you’re new to beekeeping or expanding your apiary, used equipment can be an economical option, provided you buy it from reputable sources. Avoid online auctions, as they can lead to acquiring diseased items, such as those infected with American Foulbrood. Visiting antique shops for beekeeping supplies can be beneficial if you inquire about available equipment. Ultimately, while buying used beekeeping gear can be a way to save money, it requires careful consideration to mitigate risks associated with disease and contamination.

Are Honey Bees Worth Money
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Are Honey Bees Worth Money?

Honeybees are a major economic asset, pollinating crops worth $15 billion annually in the United States, including over 130 types of fruits, nuts, and vegetables. In addition to their crucial role in pollination, honeybees produce honey valued at approximately $3. 2 million in 2017, according to the USDA-National Agricultural Statistics Service (NASS). The beekeeping industry is diverse, offering multiple revenue streams such as selling honey, bees, queen bees, and wax, as well as providing services like teaching classes, renting hives for agricultural tax exemptions and pollination, and acting as resellers for various bee-related products.

Health trends have boosted demand for bee products, with terms like omega-3 gaining popularity, particularly linked to nuts like almonds, which also produce milk and oils. Making beekeeping profitable requires careful consideration of start-up costs, including initial investments in equipment and bees, as well as ongoing expenses like mite treatments. According to Indeed, beekeepers in the UK earn an average of £25, 772 per year (as of May 2024), though earnings can vary significantly based on the size of the operation and specific business goals.

Honey is the most marketable product and a primary reason many enter beekeeping. Additional income can be generated by selling raw, unpasteurized honey, which typically commands higher prices than processed varieties. Beekeepers can also profit from selling bees, with Nucleus Colonies (NUCs), packages of bees, and queen bees fetching varying prices. The honey industry alone is worth over $100 million and exports more than 4, 500 tonnes of honey annually. Furthermore, wild bees contribute substantial economic value to crop production, sometimes surpassing managed honeybee colonies.

Overall, the beekeeping industry is valued at over $14 billion annually. Honeybees provide essential ecosystem services through pollination, adding billions of dollars in economic value each season. For example, maintaining 100 hives could yield around $12, 000, assuming equipment costs are covered and labor is managed efficiently. While there are opportunities to earn more than the initial investment by selling honey, wax, and bees, successful beekeeping requires upfront expenses and ongoing management.

What Is The Average Profit Per Beehive
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What Is The Average Profit Per Beehive?

The potential profit per beehive varies greatly, yielding between 30 to 60 pounds (14 to 27 kg) of honey annually, with some robust colonies producing up to 100 pounds (45 kg). Consequently, beekeepers can expect to make $300 to $600 (£216 to £432) per hive yearly from honey sales alone. In nectar-rich regions, profits can reach $300-$500 per hive annually, as beekeepers typically charge around $10 per pound of honey, potentially leading to $600 profit per hive.

Beekeeping offers multiple revenue streams, including beeswax, pollen, royal jelly, propolis, and pollination services, generally maintaining profit margins from 15% onward. As of May 2024, beekeepers in the UK earn roughly £25, 772 annually. However, income can significantly vary based on the beekeeper's objectives and the number of hives managed. There are approximately 25, 000 beekeepers in the UK, with about 400 classified as commercial by the Bee Farmers Association; the majority engage in hobby beekeeping with an average of 3-5 hives.

To establish a full-time beekeeping income, managing over 500 hives may be necessary, alongside a diversified approach beyond just honey production. Those entering beekeeping are advised to gradually grow their operations while gaining experience. Typical yields per hive hover around 40-60 pounds, with a reasonable profitability estimate grounded in these figures.

With current honey prices between $12-$15 per pound, profits can ascend significantly, potentially yielding $18, 720 to $23, 400 from 100 hives annually. Although initial setup costs can be high, consistent care and management can lead to a sustainable and profitable beekeeping venture, contingent on local conditions and seasonal variations in nectar availability.

How To Save Money On Beekeeping Equipment
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How To Save Money On Beekeeping Equipment?

Disinfecting your beekeeping unit can lead to significant savings. Steer clear of older galvanized models since they’re challenging to clean. Recycling second-hand beekeeper protective clothing is advisable, avoiding the high costs of new suits and jackets. Starting beekeeping on a budget emphasizes sustainability and affordability. Look for local suppliers offering competitive pricing or consider second-hand equipment.

You can initiate your beekeeping endeavor for approximately $200 if you build your own hive, capture a wild swarm of bees, and acquire a basic bee suit with minimal equipment. Conversely, starting with two hives, which many associations recommend, can cost up to $1, 500. To save money, limit equipment purchases and skip optional tools. Constructing your own beehives can be lucrative, and there’s local demand due to high shipping costs from suppliers.

This guide illustrates strategies to start beekeeping economically, including choosing the right gear and sourcing bees affordably. Though beekeeping entails expenses, opting for DIY projects and consulting local associations can minimize costs. Starter kits often include unnecessary items, and extraction equipment can be pricey; renting tools like extractors is more economical. Building your own unassembled equipment can save money and materials.

Buying bees locally can reduce shipping fees, with packages priced around $150 and nucs around $180. Learning how to create your own beekeeping supplies can yield significant savings and increase potential earnings through honey and wax sales, though initial expenses for bees and equipment are necessary.

What Is The Rule Of 3 For Bees
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What Is The Rule Of 3 For Bees?

In beekeeping, there is a commonly referenced guideline known as the "3-foot or 3-mile rule." This principle suggests that when moving a hive, if the relocation is less than three feet or more than three miles, bees will successfully reorient themselves. If moved a short distance (under three feet), returning foragers can locate their hive by smell, while a move exceeding three miles triggers a reorientation process, preventing them from returning to the original location.

The number three significantly influences bee phenomena; for example, a queen's egg hatches in three days and is fed for nine days (3x3). Although this three-mile and three-foot guideline is generally reliable, beekeepers have reported success moving hives greater than fifty feet without issues.

Additionally, beekeeping encompasses various rules to promote colony management, honey quality, and bee health. One critical rule emphasizes isolating bees from other colonies, as the health standards of neighboring beekeepers can directly impact one's own bees. Furthermore, colonies should be resistant to pests and diseases. The guidelines underscore the importance of maintaining sufficient food, preventing robbery from other bees or animals, and fostering a respectful, responsible approach to beekeeping.

Overall, successful beekeeping combines understanding bee behavior, adhering to management rules, and actively learning from experiences, all while ensuring a symbiotic relationship with other beekeepers for the wellbeing of the bee community.


📹 Beekeeping Ep.1 Is It Worthless Or Worth It? Today: The Inner Cover

Beekeeping involves so much equipment. It’s challenging to know if all of these parts and pieces and accessories are need or are …


34 comments

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  • I am new to bee keeping. I do use a inner cover. I like it. My bees seem to like to hang out in the space between the inner and outer cover. It also gives me a way to quickly see how active the girls are with a quick peek under the top cover. I like the articles. Thanks for all the good northern bee keeping info. Most articles are coming out of the south.

  • Thank you for an honest review of the inner cover. I left the inner cover and telescoping cover two years ago. I switched to a migratory cover and that’s it. Feeding bees for winter should be enough to where sugar bricks shouldn’t be necessary. If I need space for a sugar brick I”ll put on a shallow. I am looking at adding 1/2 inch to the cover so that I can add pollen substitute or some sugar if needed.

  • I use an inner cover because my mentor trained me to use one. It makes sense to me and allows good ventilation. I started in 2017 and stopped after 2019 because my bees died 2 years in a row. I had other things going on in my life. I’m just starting again in June of 2024 with a colony extracted from a house. I want to continue adding hives and help the bee population and the great value that bees have on pollination. Plus would like to harvest a little honey for family and friends to stay healthy. I’m trying to learn as much as i can and do the right thing to protect bees in Virginia. Thabks for what you do. May God bless you.

  • I have both telescoping lids with inner covers and migratory lids on my hives. Like you said, there are advantages and disadvantages to both. As my numbers increase, I like the migratory tops because there’s less equipment but the ventilation that the inner cover offers seems to help some. Enjoy the articles!

  • Hey David, this will be my first spring beekeeping. I will be starting with 4 bee castle hives. I have been doing quite a bit of learning and I love your website and your wealth of knowledge. I will be starting out using the inner cover, but may choose to discontinue it’s use later on. Thanks again for all you do! Happy Holidays!

  • Hi Dave! We love you! We are brand new beekeepers here in NH. We DO use an inner cover. We have one hive that we won in a contest, which is what started us beekeeping! We plan to get one more hive in the near future. We do like using the inner covers. Thanks for all the help we get from your articles!~Adam and Mary

  • Inner covers work well for me to supplement feed weaker hives that are having trouble with robbing in the fall. I also use the inner cover as a precaution to allow hive to vent and bees to go for cleansing flights during winter. We don’t normally get consistent deep storms but we do get random drifting depending on wind direction. the top vent will be facing a different direction than the bottom entrance in an attempt to circumvent high air speed drifting plugging both openings. (doesn’t always work when the wind swirly’s your hive. I just found your “Is it worth it” series. I like it! Thanks!

  • Last year was my first year to keep bees and I bought an inner cover with one round hole for feeding. I had used the front feeder but then changed to the inner cover, mostly through a dearth to guard against possible robber bees. I liked it for that, especially because I didn’t get a face full of bees when changing out the syrup. But the front feeder worked just as well, even better in a sense because I could easily see if they needed syrup. For me, I’d say it’s about 50/50. I love your website and I have your book. Learn a lot from you….Thank you!

  • I use an inner cover down here in Texas. One reason I use the inner cover is when I refill my cap and ladder internal feeder. I can set my syrup bucket (that has a nozzle) on top of the inner cover. The inner cover slightly offset to expose the feeder and the nozzle hangs over the edge of the cover. Thus the cover helps prevent robbing and keeps the bees from being exposed (fully open hive) and keeps bees from coming after me. Therefore I don’t have to use a smoker when filling the internal feeder.

  • I do use an inner cover when I feel they need a little more ventilation because the moisture can go through the hole up into the top. I also use the inner cover before I had a feeding system and I and I would put feed on top of the cover and cover it with another Box and top and the bees would go up and eat. Now I use a feeding system like yours worse that I made. Thank you so much for all your knowledge that you give us.

  • I use them in the UK, either with holes for the porter bee escapes or no holes in them. If they have the holes then they are covered with a small piece of acrylic glass, these then act as observation windows. I don’t have ventilation above the brood box, but have 2 inches of kingspan between the inner cover and telescopic roof, works well at eliminating condensation above the brood. Also no upper entrances.

  • Right now about 2/3 of my hives have inner covers, and I do find that putting Beetle traps above them catches a lot of small hive beetles, but other than that, they are just an added expense. I don’t put them on new hives, and wouldn’t purchase replacements for the ones I have, but I will use them until they fail.

  • I’m a brand new beekeeper, i just got my nuc about 3 weeks ago. I haven’t been using a top cover because i have a top feeder that doesn’t use it. it’s always good to hear reasons why or why not to use something from people with experience. Depending on the situation I may use one, since one came with the hive kit anyway. I like the idea to use it to cover up boxes during an inspection.

  • I use the inner covers on all of my 8 frame Langstroth hives but not yet on the nucs. – reduces heat on frames in summer. – top doesn’t stick. – I feed syrup/patties on the cover inside an empty box, – helps with ventilation, – provides a space for the girls to hangout/shoot pool/ drink beer on down time, – gives me an idea of population before I open the hive.

  • Hi David. Thank you for your articlees. I use inner covers on my hives, but more specifically, I use Vivaldi boards. I only have between 10 and 20 hives in any given year, but I find these covers useful for, feeding, insulating, ventilating and moisture control during the different seasons. Best to you and your family, Doug

  • David Burns… Choose me (!) 🤭 I could use a Kilt as an Inner Cover (!) Their are lots of Clan Patterns : To suit a Hive, and make it unique from one another. (Tartan / Plaid.) Their are lots of different Colours, and Stripe in the Weave of making a Kilt. (Probably near x100 different kinds.) The National Dress of Scotland… Worn by the Laddies. (Guys !) 💪 A Kilt unbelted, is just a long piece of Cloth, so I could use it on my Horizontal Hive to… 🤣 Happy Beekeeping 2021, from Scotland ! 🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝 Howdy Cowboy ! No much Cattle Rustling around these parts, but we do have the “Highland Coo”… (Cow) with long Ginger Fur and massive Sideways Horns. )😆

  • I added Imirie shims to my hives down here in S.C. and used the inner cover as a top then added the telescoping outer cover. Gives the bees just a small enough of a top entrance as well as more room for ventilation. My bees have been “bearding” significantly with the heat/humidity, so I figured I would give it a try. Probably will have more of a problem with burr comb. I am fairly new to this bee keeping venture, so just trying some things out. Great articles!

  • I have used inner covers for all of the 10 years now that I have been keeping 2 or so hives of bees and I plan to continue to do so as I see it providing a net positive advantage. The best purpose that I have seen for having an inner cover is that it keeps predatory creatures, e.g., earwigs, spiders, beetles, moths, etc. from having direct access to the hive. The inner cover provides the benefit of an upper access/vent for the bees, but which is also an ingress for pests. Since with an inner cover, the real upper entrance into the hive is in the center of the box and limited to a handhold sized opening, which I have always seen bees clustering at, pests are deterred from gaining entrance directly down into the hive itself. It’s not uncommon for me to see pests somewhere on the inner cover whenever I lift off the outer cover. The drilling of a hole in the top super, as I’ve seen done in other articles could also provide bees with access and ventilation, but doesn’t give the same deterrence effect as any pest that has the opportunity to evade the bees’ defense of the hole can go directly into the hive.

  • I do use them, some hive manufacturers making frames or boxes just don’t give enough gap for bees to walk the tops of frames making it difficult to keep the hive beetles in check, or move without obstruction. In time the telescopic cover sags in the middle making it even more difficult for bees to move about.

  • I’m a 3rd year beekeeper in Australia, just going into autumn here. I have tried an inner cover but also found it to be an extra step that didn’t seem worth it. I don’t have a mesh bottom board but that would be interesting to try out. I do have ventilated lids as the summers here can get steamy. Just a couple of 1cm holes drilled into the back and front edge of the lid with metal mesh over and they seem to be worth it. Thanks for your interesting articles 🐝😊

  • I used to use an inner cover but am in the process of eliminating them on my hives switching to using a piece of foil insulation wrap which covers the top of the box with a hive top cover on that. That prevents the top from being glued to the top box and provides insulation year-round. I first saw this on Kamon Reynolds website. I am thinking that the upper ventilation openings is not as important as I thought and insulating from the cooler top is more important in the winter. Many designs do not have upper ventilation any more.

  • I like an inner cover to slide it over the hive. Makes it easier not to smash bees and get them out of the way. I am allergic so not smashing any bee is high on my list. I brush bees off frames with a feather. I try to seal my hives. Where ever cold air meets moisture it condenses. I use house wrap before insulating the walls and adding unwelcome board siding. Bubble wrap under inner cover is worth it to me. Even with using touching Lazutin frames.

  • David, glad you did this article! We met briefly at the NC Summer Conference and have learned a great deal from your articles. Having moved toward migratory covers and Cerecell Top Feeders, I do not use inner covers on most of my hives. One minor tweek of the subject, I’m curious if you know a screen inner cover might be effective at lowering the hive temperate in the summertime. Keep up the great work!

  • David I am at about the same percentage as you are but for different reasons. I mostly make most of my equipment and will do lots of one thing like bottom boards or deeps or supers, and while I like using inner covers I don’t find them completely necessary and so building them is pretty low on the totem pole. I hope to catch up this winter! HA HA HA

  • Thank you! You have taught me a lot along with a few other YT mentors. I use inner covers. As a novice bee keeper I use these for my top round-feeders. How do you top feed without one? It also gives me a cover for open hives during an inspections. Note that I only have 3 garden hives, so I can see how this would be costly if you had many hives. I’ve had interest in using the cotton duct cloth covers also, economical, but I just got some nice inner covers that have a space for pollen patties.

  • Hi David, I have 4 hives and have always used an inner cover and add thick washers between inner and outer cover for ventilation. I’ve been keeping bees nearly 8 years without ever buying a package of bees – part lucky? I didn’t know it was an option really. Thanks for the insight. Love your website.

  • I dont use covers, mainly because summer is so incredibly humid in Korea and I need a massive amount of ventilation. The funny thing is I don’t use a smoker or brush…. I find using a brush instantaneously makes them incredibly angry. The only piece of equipment I use is a bee hat (hint hint nudge nudge). Thanks for a great article and greetings from Korea!

  • I do not use inner covers. I use a Vivaldi Board on all of my hive. V-boards provide ventilation to the hive year-round. I installed one mid-December 2020 on my hive and the colony came through a Southern PA winter strong. The winter moisture is absorbed into the burlap. In the spring the burlap is removed and the daily heat vents out the top into the atmosphere. I have since increased to six hives through swarms (by the grace of God) and splits and have a V-board on all 6. I make my own and am still experimenting with the venting, but I swear by them. MTO…let me know if you are interested.

  • I am new to beekeeping. All I know all part of the high that I have seen on Mann Lake diagrams. I thought inner covers were to provide a small amount of ventilation while trapping heat for cold nights. I live in northern Maine and the nights-even in the summer can still get cold. I use inner covers on both my hives -but I admit I’m not sure what I’m doing. I watch your articles for guidance. Thank you for your articles.

  • I just put two inner covers back to back on a hive lol. I did a super quick inspection and the inner cover was stuck up inside the top cover so I threw another one on so they would have a vent hole during the summer heat wave. Now they’ve got about an inch of playspace I trapped a thousand bees in that probably took them a day to find their way out

  • From a total novice perspective this series will be really beneficial to me, I currently use the inner cover as I place my feeder in there and it means when I take the hive top off I am not straight into the frames so get a feel for the mood the bees are in by the their actions around the feeder etc. Not sure if that makes sense?

  • Great Timing! I woke up this morning thinking about inner covers and decided to really dig into the debate, this was the first article that popped up when searching. You mentioned flipping the inner cover, then putting the super on top of it to help them escape before taking the super off. How are you putting the super on it without first removing the super ? Thanks again for the articles David, they are really helpful.

  • Its a tough question but here i say 99% would say no. Every where is different in Bee Keeping,it all depands on Equipment used it make a difference where you live.Alot here use Hive or Propolis Mats Mats instead of a Inner Cover,general Tempature is warmer,but it depands on what your Targetting for Production. David you need more Subs for work you put in.

  • As a new first year beek I use them simply because that’s what I’ve seen most people using. I understand your reasons for not using one, but I use it to place my sugar water feeder directly above the bees. What is the alternative, can a feeder be placed directly on top of the frames? Looking forward to the article on screened bottoms vs solid because I’ve had some anxiety about that decision. As always great informative article.

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