In summary, beekeeping involves the regular replacement of brood frames, which are essential for maintaining a healthy hive. The brood box should be filled with bees and have all frames drawn, with the frames being replaced every 5 to 6 years. The process involves scraping wax and honey off the supers, draining the honey, and mixing it in a mixer.
Replacement of super frames is a simple process of removing empty frames and replacing them with fresh ones. Towards the end of the season, frames that need to be replaced should be moved to the ends of the brood chamber. During winter, these frames become free of brood, but in early spring, before the colony expands rapidly, they can be removed and replaced with drawn combs. However, foundation use is not possible at this time, as without a honey flow or extensive feeding, the bees will not draw it out.
If the comb is anything but straight and completely drawn out, it is a candidate to be removed. If the comb is 3 years old, it is recommended to change old frames for new frames by year 4. It is often good to use either the early spring flow and post-harvest feeding to get the frames replaced. It is suggested that 1/3 of your brood frames each year, so you will never have frames older than 3 years. A good rule is to begin replacing frames and foundation at year 4 and only replace half of the frames.
Checker board these frames, as checker bees usually store honey in the edge frames. Once the brood has hatched, you can remove the frame, which can take up to 3 weeks if there are eggs in the frame.
Article | Description | Site |
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When to swap out frames in Brood box during Spring | I swap out brood frames during spring as a means of preemptive swarm control. I remove the frames with the most sealed brood, so as to prevent the population … | forum.honeyflow.com |
When to change out old frames? – Beekeeping Forum | When is it recommended to change old frames for new frames? I have seen online by year 4 and to change every second frame initially before doing the rest. | beekeepingforum.co.uk |
📹 How to swap out brood frames
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How Do I Know If My Bees Have A New Frame?
Placing a colored dot on two new frames annually is a common method to indicate their age, matching the color used for marking queen bees, which helps in tracking when frames were installed. Understanding frame content is crucial for new beekeepers to ensure hives establish effectively. If only one queen cell is visible, it's advisable to verify if the colony is queenless by introducing a frame of young brood from another colony.
If queen cells are constructed, it suggests queenlessness. There are various indicators to confirm a hive lacks a queen, including the eventuality that all hives will lose their queens and need requeening—sometimes done by the bees naturally without notice.
To ascertain if a beehive is queenless, look for signs such as missing brood and eggs, because the queen is responsible for egg-laying. Beekeeping requires diligent monitoring of frames to grasp the hive's status quickly. Frames might feature pollen mainly where brood is present, easing the nurse bees' food retrieval process. Confirming the queen's presence may require waiting until she returns from a mating flight. When introducing a new queen, the risk is that bees may fight; thus, it's essential to implement cautious measures, such as checkerboarding after the fourth year when replacing frames.
When inspecting frames post-installation, it's important to start after a few days, ensuring optimal conditions—temperatures above 40°F, low winds, and no rain—for reducing stress on the bees during the check.
What Temperature Kills Brood?
The brood's survival is highly sensitive to temperature. If the body temperature exceeds 96°F, the brood will perish, while beeswax combs begin to soften and collapse at temperatures over 104°F. Bees usually maintain the brood cluster temperature between 89. 5°F and 97°F, favoring the higher end. At temperatures below 50°F (10°C), hive inspections should be minimal to prevent heat loss, as exposure to cold air can increase brood mortality. Optimal conditions for brood development are between 89.
6°F to 95°F (32°C to 35°C). If the temperature drops significantly, and the bees do not cover the brood adequately, chilled brood can result, leading to color loss and eventual death. Sealed brood exposed to 77°F (25°C) dies in eight days, while at 80. 6°F (27°C), it can survive for 12 days but may still result in high mortality after hatching. Maintaining a brood nest temperature around 94°F to 96°F is critical, as dropping below this can hinder their development and reduce their energy levels.
Studies indicate that temperatures around 108°F (42°C) can be used temporarily for specific treatments, limited to 2-3 hours. Thus, understanding and managing the brood's thermal environment is crucial to prevent chilling and ensure healthy development. Short-duration exposure to higher temperatures is acceptable, but a consistent optimal temperature is vital for successful brood rearing.
Can You Move A Frame Of Bees From One Hive To Another?
It's permissible to rearrange frames in a hive as bees would naturally do, ensuring proper spacing to prevent overcrowding or underpopulation. If necessary, beekeepers can transfer bees to a new hive or introduce new bees into an existing one. It's essential to note that outside frames typically contain fewer bees, allowing for the movement of frames to create space. Beekeepers frequently trade frames between hives, especially moving honey frames for winter feeding.
This act can strengthen weaker hives without noticeable disturbance. When transferring frames, if the weaker hive has a queen, moving capped brood can boost hive health and productivity. Meanwhile, adding frames when a new box is introduced can encourage bee expansion. Relocating hives is possible, whether a few feet or many miles, but the new site should ideally be predetermined. There are specific patterns for moving frames, often involving the transfer of eggs or larvae to foster a strong colony.
It's crucial to ensure frames are pressed together and organized with good frames on the edges and brood in the center. Transporting hives requires care to prevent injury from escaping bees or hive disintegration during transit. Ultimately, the decision should be made with the context of each hive's status, focusing on nurturing weaker colonies while allowing stronger hives to thrive independently.
When Should I Throw Away My Bee Frames?
Bee frames can be used for years before needing replacement, especially if you actively rehabilitate aging or poorly drawn frames. Instead of disposing of them, cleaning the wax and allowing bees to rebuild new comb is often sufficient. In the UK, it's recommended to replace frames every 3 to 5 years, depending on their condition. If frames are damaged beyond repair, they should be burned. If bees continue to use the frames happily, they are still viable; the old frames can be placed on top of strong colonies in early spring for cleaning and polishing by the bees, who always tidy old cells before reuse.
If a hive experiences total die-off due to chemicals or other issues, all frames should be replaced. Generally, frames that have housed deceased bees can still be usable, particularly if uncapped fermented honey is removed. It's advisable to freeze frames infested with wax moth larvae to eliminate them. There are no strict rules for frame rotation, as darkened combs merely indicate age. Frames should be replaced if they age beyond three years, marked during assembly.
Online experts suggest changing frames every four years, starting with half at a time and gradually rotating more, using wax moth preventatives as needed. Rigid or damaged frames should be discarded or repurposed for smoker fuel.
Can A Bee Brood Box Be Replaced?
Managing bee hives effectively involves regular inspection and maintenance to ensure the health and productivity of the colony. One key task is replacing frames within the brood box. Instead of focusing on the outermost edges of the frames, attention should be given to the outside edges of the brood box itself. Typically, after one or two weeks, the brood emerges, allowing for the safe replacement of frames without any loss. Wooden frames can be reused by installing new wax foundation or plastic alternatives.
Bees naturally fill their hive with comb, brood, pollen, and nectar. Therefore, a second brood box is usually only necessary once the first box's cells are nearly full. In regions like North Carolina, where bees remain active into November, it may be necessary to replace the bottom hive box before winter sets in. When replacing frames, it’s important to ensure they are properly integrated into the new box to maintain the colony’s structure. If additional honey stores are needed, swapping out brood boxes can provide the necessary space.
Videos, such as those by beekeeper Blake Shook, demonstrate the steps for replacing a brood box with minimal disturbance to the bees. The process typically involves removing old frames, replacing them with new empty ones, and allowing bees to build fresh comb. During early spring, when bees are primarily in the top super, the bottom box can be managed by replacing frames with those containing wax foundation.
For wooden brood boxes, outer frames usually contain no brood, making them easier to replace without disrupting the colony. Introducing a new brood box with fresh frames and foundation can encourage bees to draw new comb. Placing the new box on top of the existing one, along with a feeder and syrup, helps the bees transition smoothly. Ensuring the queen is relocated to the new box is crucial for maintaining colony continuity.
Swapping brood boxes is generally a quick task, often completed within five minutes, and can be done whenever a box needs maintenance, such as repainting. During winter, frames become brood-free and can be replaced in early spring with drawn combs. If a frame contains brood or eggs, it should be removed only after the brood has hatched. Techniques like reversing brood boxes—moving the brood nest to a different position within the hive—can help manage the colony’s organization effectively.
Overall, regular maintenance, timely frame replacement, and proper hive management practices are essential for sustaining a healthy and productive bee colony.
How Long Do Bee Frames Last?
After chemicals trace back into the hive, they accumulate on the comb and can create a toxic environment after five years. To maintain a thriving bee colony, it's advisable to start replacing frames and foundation yearly from year four, ideally replacing half of the frames. In cases of complete hive die-off due to chemicals, all frames must be replaced. Old frames can be placed atop strong colonies in early spring for bees to clean. Frames typically last 2-3 years, with many beekeepers replacing them between 3-4 years, as beeswax is vulnerable to wax moths and mice in winter.
For storage, frames should be placed in airtight bags and frozen for 48 hours to eliminate pests before being stored in a clean, dry bin. After honey extraction, frames can be left in the hive for bees to manage. Regular frame inspections help detect issues early; signs of wear include splits where propolis bonds with adjacent frames. Beekeepers should avoid overwhelming bees by alternating the replacement of frames to prevent excessive labor. Generally, comb used for brood or honey storage can last up to 10 years, although some beekeepers rotate it out after around eight years.
Frames made of durable plastic can last upwards of a decade if cleaned properly. It's important to freeze frames for a short period to rid them of pests before reuse. Understanding these practices will aid in sustaining healthy bee colonies and ensuring a productive beekeeping experience.
What Can I Do With Old Brood Frames?
Brood frames that contain honey can be returned to the bees or stored, while frames with pollen or bee-bread can either be given back or frozen for the following season. Similarly, super frames can be managed in the same manner. There are various methods for replacing brood frames, such as the Bailey Frame Change which allows for complete wax replacement, a two-brood box setup, or a gradual partial comb replacement over two to three years. If concerned about American Foulbrood (AFB) and unsure about diagnosing, beekeepers can send a comb sample to Beltsville for free testing.
After decades of beekeeping, frustrations arise around recycling old brood comb, which offers minimal wax yield. For cleaning dark combs, solar wax melters are preferred for their time and energy efficiency. Constructing a solar wax melter requires a styrofoam cooler and aluminum. Once frames are removed from a hive, swapping empty brood frames with frames containing uncapped honey is recommended, though excessive wet nectar may lead to moisture issues in the hive during winter.
In cases of frames with dead brood not resulting from disease, options include freezing them or extracting the honey. A common practice to replace old brood comb involves removing two frames each spring and replacing them with fresh ones. Additionally, cleaning methods like steaming can be employed, allowing the wax to be reused for candles. Importantly, if frame loss is solely due to condensation, the frames remain viable for reuse. During late season, replacing worn frames is advisable by relocating them to the brood chamber's edges. Bees will naturally clean the hive and repurpose old comb cells for brood or honey storage.
How Many Frames Are In A Brood Box?
The Brood box is populated with bees and has all frames drawn; 7 out of 8 frames contain capped brood with honey above, while 1 frame is drawn but lacks brood and honey. The super contains 8 frames, with 4 nearly drawn and 2 partially drawn with no stored honey. In both the brood body and super, 11 Hoffman (self-spacing) frames fit comfortably. While it's possible to fit 12 frames, 11 with a dummy board is preferred for easier manipulation.
Most beekeepers favor 10 frames in brood boxes, as wider spaces do not enhance brood-raising efficiency; typically, 9-10 frames are used, with 10 being optimal for continuous egg-laying by the queen at 1800 eggs daily.
Generally, up to 12 frames can fit in brood boxes, but once propolized, it becomes a tight fit; thus, the common practice is to use 11 frames along with a dummy board in both brood boxes and honey supers. This setup promotes manageable inspections and adequate room for brood-rearing. Many beekeepers adopt the approach of using 10 frames in brood boxes, dropping to 9 in supers after initial comb building begins. Each frame typically holds honey and pollen above the brood cells, suggesting an average of 7 full brood frames per hive.
Most beekeepers consistently utilize 10 frames in brood boxes, transitioning to 9 in supers, all the while optimizing space management and bee productivity. In conclusion, the combination of frame count and configurations—whether 9, 10, or 11—ultimately supports both effective bee care and hive management.
How Far Away From Your House Should You Keep Bees?
When placing a beehive near your house, it is generally advised to maintain a minimum of 4 feet of clearance on each side and behind the hive, with at least 25 feet of space in front of the entrance. Although there are no strict rules regarding the distance from the beehive to your home, experienced beekeepers typically recommend situating hives at least 25-30 feet from residential structures such as houses or porches, with an ideal distance of 50-100 feet to reduce potential risks.
The goal is to provide enough space for the bees to gain altitude and minimize interactions with humans. While gentle bees are less likely to cause disturbances, it is crucial to consider the possibility of agitation. Bees typically forage within a radius of three to five miles, so the shorter the distance from the hive to their foraging grounds, the less stressed the bees will be.
Hives should have at least 6 feet of open space directly in front, while the two sides can be closer to structures. Many beekeepers have successfully placed hives as close as 10 feet from their homes, provided that property lines are respected and appropriate barriers, like fences or hedges, are in place. Bees require about 5 feet of space around them to facilitate movement and management tasks, and while some hives can be spaced as closely as 6 inches apart, ample room around them is essential for handling equipment and ensuring beekeeper safety.
How Often Should I Replace Brood Frames?
To manage your bee colonies effectively, it's important to replace brood frames regularly. Generally, old BROOD frames are rotated out every 7-10 years, but a more optimal practice is to replace them every 3-6 years, depending on conditions and hive health. Many beekeepers prefer to change brood comb every 5 years, scraping wax and honey from supers before using a mixer to prepare for new frames.
When establishing a new hive with foundation frames, it's crucial to have a systematic replacement protocol. Begin by marking your new frames with the corresponding year, such as 08 this year, and then follow up with 09 the next year, continuing consecutively. This way, you're effectively cycling through your frames, replacing two per year, resulting in a complete change every five years.
In a double brood box, it’s observed that queens may favor the lower box for laying, which could influence your frame management. Recommendations suggest starting frame replacement around year four, with an approach to replace about one-third of frames annually. This checkerboarding method can help maintain a healthy environment, ensuring that no frame exceeds three years of age.
Signs that indicate the need for replacement include accumulated pathogens in the aging wax, damage to frames, or extensive drone comb presence. Regularly assessing your frames helps sustain hive health and productivity.
To summarize, replace brood comb every 3-6 years, marking and managing frame age methodically. The best practice involves rotating out 2 frames each year, ultimately replacing 1/3 of your frames annually to prevent the accumulation of harmful substances and deterioration. By maintaining this schedule, your hives will remain healthy and productive year after year.
📹 When Is The Best Time To Replace Frames
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2:11 I would have put the brood frame between the other honey super frames instead of on the end in the super box. The queen normally lays her eggs around a 3-dimenstional center (hence, center both longitudinal and latitudual), like a sliced ball across the brood frames in the brood box. The temperature and humidity are appropriately regulated in the center by the worker bees for ideal brood nursing as well. Hence, placing the brood frame on the end like that exposes it to non-ideal temperature and humidity conditions for brooding, especially if the external conditions are extreme hot summer or extreme cold winter conditions. With an insulation R-value of less than 1 for wood that thin, it’s hardly a perfect insulator … plus wood has wicking properties that allows it to retain moisture. If bees do hatch from that mis-placed brood frame, they’re going to be sick bees off to a bad start in life.
I had to check my hive I have 2 brood boxes so as I pulled the frames out of the top box so I could inspect the bottom box how do I put the top box back on without squishing the bees, I tried to brush the bees off edges but more just kept coming I feel terrible because some of them I believe got squished.
Oh my goodness! That’s great 😀 I’ve put lovely new foundation in again this spring and the bees have just run amok as usual 😳😳 They have built bridges between the combs, created large areas of drone brood, dug holes in it, built areas of comb on top of the comb – crazy 🤪 I’ll try again in September 👍 You keep giving us great information Laurence 👍 Thank you 👏👏🇬🇧